EZGO TXT suddently stopped working

[kgsc]

Is that 38 volts at the jumper 1 pin 4 connection? And the others at 8 and 9?

[scottyb]

Don't skip around follow the red line Positive from the reed switch to the F&R micro switch, I suspect you may find the trouble there. Yes the solenoid small terminals is one + and one -. good luck

[RickiHN]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Is that 38 volts at the jumper 1 pin 4 connection? And the others at 8 and 9?

Yes 38V at J1 pin 4(Reed switch) and 3V at pin 8 and 9(Key switch). As well as 3V at J4 pin 1 and 2(Pedal switch).

And I did just double check them all measuring them all directly at the pins. Same deal

[RickiHN]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Don't skip around follow the red line Positive from the reed switch to the F&R micro switch, I suspect you may find the trouble there. Yes the solenoid small terminals is one + and one -. good luck

What? The positive from the reed switch does not connect up with the F&R switch. It enters the modular jumper 1 (pin 4) on the control unit. The F&R switch is connected to nothing but the control unit on different pins on jumper 1 (pin 1-3).

[scottyb]

Ezgo series? no? okay PDS then, disregard my previous post..

38v in and 3v out? unless the connector itself is faulty you have a bad control. Raise the molex connector just enough to touch the test leads directly to the controller pins. Same 3v?

[RickiHN]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Ezgo series? no? PDS?

Ok I'm getting somewhat confused. You posted the diagram yourself on the last page showing how each switch is wired up to the control unit. How they are connected up internally in the control unit I have no idea. All I know is that 2 wires goes from the control unit to the key switch, 2 wires to the pedal switch, 3 wires goes off to the F&R switch etc.

And yes as mentioned on last page, its the PDS.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by RickiHN

Ok I'm getting somewhat confused. You posted the diagram yourself on the last page showing how each switch is wired up to the control unit. How they are connected up internally in the control unit I have no idea. All I know is that 2 wires goes from the control unit to the key switch, 2 wires to the pedal switch, 3 wires goes off to the F&R switch etc.

And yes as mentioned on last page, its the PDS.

Yes. I edited my post with an apology for the confusion. We have a lot of carts here - Its easy to get them mixed up once in a while. It sounds like a bad control.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by RickiHN

Ok I'm getting somewhat confused. You posted the diagram yourself on the last page showing how each switch is wired up to the control unit. How they are connected up internally in the control unit I have no idea. All I know is that 2 wires goes from the control unit to the key switch, 2 wires to the pedal switch, 3 wires goes off to the F&R switch etc.

And yes as mentioned on last page, its the PDS.

Battery voltage is fed into the controller via J1 Pins 4 & 5
They go out of the controller on J3 Pins 1 & 3, through the Run/Tow switch and then back into the controller on J3 Pins 2 & 4.
J3 Pin-2 is the Auxiliary power that feds the external control switches.
J3 Pin-4 feds a regulated power supply that in turn feds the internal electronics.

If you have FULL battery voltage on J1 Pins 4 & 5 as well as on all four pins on J3, you should have FULL battery pack voltage going to keyswitch on J1 Pin-9. Otherwise the controller is bad.

The attached schematic shows the solenoid energized. All the red highlighted wires must be FULL battery pack voltage.

[RickiHN]

Yeah I measured the 3V directly on the pins by putting a thin test probe down beside the wire touching the pins. I wiggled and inspected all the molex pins and saw no problem with them and measured the 3V on the outputting pins directly on the control unit as well. So the connectors them self seem fine.

I don't suppose the controller contains any fuses or relays etc that tend to fail and can easily be replaced? And just looking at the box it looks quite the challenge to open without causing serious damage.

[RickiHN]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Battery voltage is fed into the controller via J1 Pins 4 & 5
They go out of the controller on J3 Pins 1 & 3, through the Run/Tow switch and then back into the controller on J3 Pins 2 & 4.
J3 Pin-2 is the Auxiliary power that feds the external control switches.
J3 Pin-4 feds a regulated power supply that in turn feds the internal electronics.

If you have FULL battery voltage on J1 Pins 4 & 5 as well as on all four pins on J3, you should have FULL battery pack voltage going to keyswitch on J1 Pin-9. Otherwise the controller is bad.

The attached schematic shows the solenoid energized. All the red highlighted wires must be FULL battery pack voltage.

Hmm yeah ok. Think(not at the cart right now) the only one showing full voltage is the reed switch(supplied directly from battery doh!), rest only 3V. Possible one circuit of the tow switch shows full voltage, but not the other.