batteries dying???

[OhDannyBoy]

whoops i meant hertz. I can barely hear it but it definitely is when i push throttle. The only time i notice it is when i'm having this issue and not moving. if my controller is in thermal shutdown will the cart make this noise. I realize it may not actually be coming from the motor but i always assumed it was an indication the cart was trying to do something in response to me pushing the throttle.

[JohnnieB]

You've got good ears. Normal frequency range for human hearing is from 20Hz up to 20kHz, but most people over 30 cannot hear the higher frequencies and I doubt if many of the younger ones can hear much of anything considering the decibel levels produced by the sounds systems in some cars and homes.

I'm not sure what the controller does to when it goes into thermal shutdown other than it stops passing amps to the motor. Could be it shuts off a driver stage and the oscillator continues to run.

[OhDannyBoy]

you are correct. annual audiograms for the army confirm this. i do have to listen for it though.

so is there any load tests i could do to confirm this. other than just walk away and come back?

i guess i need to do a load test when the situation occurs again. quite possible its a combination of multiple issues and im thinking they are 1. ive noticed occasionally it is slow to move when pedal is depressed in reverse and then its like it catches and i have full power. im not sure if this is related or not. i'm going to spend this afternoon troubleshooting. hopefully you guys have nothing better to do and will check for updates.

[OhDannyBoy]

Okay. So after 1.5 miles of continues driving it started acting up.
BP at start was 38.0V. With throttle all the way down it was load to BP was 35.4 but went up for majority of ride to 35.7 at full throttle. There were a lot of uphills bc I was doing laps and half the lap is a slight angle. (It’s a SOB runnning on foot). Slight heat is present to solenoid and slight heat to motor but that’s it.

Current BP is 37.5 volts (it was at 37.3 when I stopped but has gone up)
The input to solenoid is the same and the out put is 35.5v. This time it never fully gave out and quit on me. If I let off the pedal off and on it would work for a tad a seemed to go into a type of limp mode. Under load during that time the pack was higher than it had been.

Letting it sit for a minute to see if it works normal again.

[OhDannyBoy]

Update so I let it sit but long story short, the BP is currently at 37.7v. It’s sat for over an hour but still limps in forward and nothing in reverse. I hooked positive lead to A2 terminal which I believe is my input for motor. In forward or reverse the motor is getting 35.7v no load. With throttle depressed it is 36.1v.

Additionally no matter what motor terminal I connect positive lead to with negative at BP negotiate I get the 35.7v at no load

Charger is lit green to indicate charged while plugged in and BP voltage does not change. Assuming it’s not drained enough to start charging.

Does this mean my motor is bad or wiring or controller? I would think there should be no voltage to motor? Ughhhhh

[OhDannyBoy]

2am update…. I’m not happy. So forget about half of what I said this afternoon. I was correct that the charger had not charged the cart to 100%. This would be due to me not having the charging negative lead connected this entire time. Instead I had a random black wire going to a nonexistent voltmeter. It’s charging now.

So without charging and after 2 hours of the cart sitting there. I did all my voltage checks and it all appeared to be good. I connected + to b+ and - to m- and took off. Made it only 1/4 mile this time before giving out on me. The readings were in the 3-4v range. Put it back on battery pack and still rocking 37.8 volts.

Additionally I believe the controller is getting juice based on voltages but not giving it out. If this is the case then I’ll have to by another controller. Shoulda have just bout the d@!* thing to begin with.

[JohnnieB]

Get an Alltrax SR48400 (or larger) controller. You can connect a computer (Laptop or similar device) to it and while driving you can record a data log that tells you what's going on with about 30 columns of data plus date and time.

[OhDannyBoy]

I’m trying to do that now actually. I can’t figure out what all I need to be able to install this and it work properly i.e. the solenoid, wiring kit.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by OhDannyBoy

I’m trying to do that now actually. I can’t figure out what all I need to be able to install this and it work properly i.e. the solenoid, wiring kit.

SR48400 controller and 200A or larger solenoid plus a 13 cable set , 4ga or thicker.

If you suspect you'll be going to 48V at some point in the future, get cables for 8V batteries, they have both terminals on same side and need longer cables. Cables for 8V batteries will work for 6V batteries, but not other way around.

[OhDannyBoy]

i have no idea what new solenoid amps are except its a oem replacement. i already have 2ga wire so i dont need to get those and this site not allowing me to add to my orders.