1995 ezgo workhorse, cannot control slow speeds

[FRATT70]

No it is not "surging" but if i step on the gas I speed up and it is imposible to to hold it at a constant slow speed. If you let off the gas just a little it slows down real quick so you are constantly stepping on the gas and letting off the gas to try to keep a slow speed. At higher speeds this is not a problem but the cart does slow down quickly with the initial release of the gas.

[StoveBolt]

Guess you need someone that knows more about it than me, That belt sure looks bad though, like ruredy said maybe thats your trouble.

Could be your belt's so worn and loose it's not driving at lower rpm when the clutch is not fully engaged.

[Bob-0]

Originally Posted by FRATT70

No it is not "surging" but if i step on the gas I speed up and it is imposible to to hold it at a constant slow speed. If you let off the gas just a little it slows down real quick so you are constantly stepping on the gas and letting off the gas to try to keep a slow speed. At higher speeds this is not a problem but the cart does slow down quickly with the initial release of the gas.

Your idle speed screw has the jam nut under the head of the adjusting screw.... which will cause the screw to turn in. You should back the idle speed screw all the way off of the throttle plate arm. Then tighten it until it just "kisses" the top of the plate, and turn it in 1/3 of a turn from there.

The belt definitely has to go

Look at the choke cable beyond the cable's screw clamp on the carb... the end of the cable looks like it runs the risk of catching the acc. cable and holding the throttle plate open. Take a pair of pliars and make it into a pig's tail shape

Go ahead and get the anti-tamper wire out from the end of the govenor shaft.

Last thing is to make sure that you hear the acc. microswitch click before the throttle plate ever moves. The acc. pedal should go down about 1/4" and then you will hear the click. The pedal should travel another 1/4-1/2" before the throttle plate starts to open.

Verify smooth operation of the accelerator linkage... sometimes the rear bell crank on the engine will rust and bind the linkage.

On your battery recharing issue: Run the engine at 3/4 to full throttle with a DVM on the battery posts. Any voltage below 15.5v, and you need to replace the voltage regulator (most common problem on recharing issues... gotta verify though )

Bob

[ruredy]

Try adding a little slack in the cable going to the governor and see if it helps any.
Are you sure it's a 95?

[FRATT70]

Thanks everybody, the cart is running pretty darn smooth and its still running fast. Everybody was right. What I finally did was take off all the rods and loosened the screw and lengthened the rods to fit without tension. Now the cart runs and I don't even have to pull the choke to get it started (which actually makes sense).

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Now on to the next problem, battery not holding a charge. I have not tested the voltage yet as suggested by bob, hopefully this weekend. But I was looking through other posts and they showed pictures of the voltage regulator and I cannot find it in my cart. I have more pics of the engine and maybe ya'll can help me out.

BEHIND THE SEAT
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DRIVER'S SIDE
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ENGINE AND FUSES
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ABOVE (sort of)
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PASSENGER'S SIDE
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There are some loose wires and I haven't figured out it they belong to anything yet.


I still plan on buying a new shorter belt and I know that I have to tighten down all the securing nuts and pigtail the choke cable. The Man. code on the passenger side is D1995 from Augusta, Ga. and the outside panels say workhorse. It was originally green but has been painted white. There are some other numbers on the engine but other than that I have no clue. I don't know if it is a workhorse 800 or 1200 etc.

Thank you everybody for your help, my wife is already telling me that I spend too much time with the cart.

[ruredy]

Take that battery and find a nice lawn mower to put it in. Get a group 26 battery for the workhorse. the V/R has a bolt through the center and 3 wires coming out of it, look below the horn
It would be some version of the 1200 because it's one of the longer models, maybe a 350 in it, look for eh35(350) or eh29(295) on the engine some where

[Bob-0]

Here is the VR, sorry for the sloppiness, I'm just not very good with this sort of thing:

[FRATT70]

thanks, I will be testing this weekend, After I figure out what a group 26 battery is. Do you thing the problem is the small battery? or are you saying it is just better to have the group 26 battery. Will probably get one anyway, just interested in why.

[FRATT70]

Are you sure it's a 95?

Ruredy, you questioned if it was a 1995. Is there a reason? do I need to be concerned with fitting a lift to this cart? sorry just a little paranoid.

[ruredy]

Originally Posted by FRATT70

Ruredy, you questioned if it was a 1995. Is there a reason? do I need to be concerned with fitting a lift to this cart? sorry just a little paranoid.

I have never seen a 95 workhorse model like yours, I was thinking they didn't start making them with those bodys untill 96. Up untill now I had only seen the metalist version below 96. either way the lifts would be the same, The big change came in 2001 1/2 when the moved the rack and pinion to the axle weldment.
A group 26 battery is one for a car or truck, the 26 is just its size.
If your V/R is bad the volt will measure (at the battery) around 12v when running. To check the start/gen to make sure it's working, unhook the green wire coming from the start/gen and ground it to the frame then measure volts going to the battery, if it's around 16v then you know the start/gen is working fine and the problem is indeed the V/R.