2012 TXT 48v Solenoid Not Clicking - controller pin 12?

[jsmith101]

Hey BGW experts,

I have a 2012 EZGO txt 48v cart and just replaced all the batteries as well as put in a new charging port. When I hooked everything up, Lights worked but nothing happened when I hit the pedal and no buzzer when in reverse. I have spent the last 3 days researching through this thread as well as youtube videos and think I might know where my problem is but would like help confirming or trying something different. So far below is what I have found...

-Confirmed battery voltage is good.
-Using 2010 txt wiring diagram checked all contacts on activation circuit (Fig. 9 controller wiring diagram) and verified good battery voltage. (Tow/Run, KSI, FAR, Pedal, orange/red charge cable).
-I disconnected the 16pin connector at the controller and verified battery voltage at pin 6,8,9,10 & 16 (when closed)
-Disconnected solenoid and ran jumper cables from battery +/- to small terminals and it clicked and showed 0 resistance between the two leads.

From what I understand, the controller is supposed to send 0/- volts to the solenoid (pin 12 blue cable from controller to solenoid) to allow it to activate with the battery volts from the yellow cable (opposite small solenoid pole). Clipping my multi meter positive lead to the yellow/small solenoid connection, I disconnected the blue cable and ran my negative lead to it and did not get 48v. It was closer to 28v. Also, nothing changed when I depressed the pedal, the voltage was present when switching the Key on.

After that I ran a continuity test between Pin 12 and the eyelet at the solenoid and it read 0 ohms so I know that is good.

All that being said, does it sound like my controller is causing the problem or is there something I am missing?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jonathan

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

Hey BGW experts,

I have a 2012 EZGO txt 48v cart and just replaced all the batteries as well as put in a new charging port. When I hooked everything up, Lights worked but nothing happened when I hit the pedal and no buzzer when in reverse. I have spent the last 3 days researching through this thread as well as youtube videos and think I might know where my problem is but would like help confirming or trying something different. So far below is what I have found...

-Confirmed battery voltage is good.
-Using 2010 txt wiring diagram checked all contacts on activation circuit (Fig. 9 controller wiring diagram) and verified good battery voltage. (Tow/Run, KSI, FAR, Pedal, orange/red charge cable).
-I disconnected the 16pin connector at the controller and verified battery voltage at pin 6,8,9,10 & 16 (when closed)
-Disconnected solenoid and ran jumper cables from battery +/- to small terminals and it clicked and showed 0 resistance between the two leads.

From what I understand, the controller is supposed to send 0/- volts to the solenoid (pin 12 blue cable from controller to solenoid) to allow it to activate with the battery volts from the yellow cable (opposite small solenoid pole). Clipping my multi meter positive lead to the yellow/small solenoid connection, I disconnected the blue cable and ran my negative lead to it and did not get 48v. It was closer to 28v. Also, nothing changed when I depressed the pedal, the voltage was present when switching the Key on.

After that I ran a continuity test between Pin 12 and the eyelet at the solenoid and it read 0 ohms so I know that is good.

All that being said, does it sound like my controller is causing the problem or is there something I am missing?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jonathan

A 2012 1206HB-5201 controller PWMs the voltage to a 36V solenoid. 36V is the pull-in voltage for about half a second, then it reduces to a 28V hold-in voltage. You should never take solenoid - to battery pack - because the solenoid coil would overheat from direct 48V and be damaged.

Bob

[jsmith101]

HI Bob,

Thank you for the reply. I may have not explained it clearly enough (or maybe I did). By negative lead I meant my black multi meter lead. I was trying to see if I could read 48V between the yellow and blue wires but didn't know if a bad solenoid could be throwing off my reading so just disconnected it. I did not hook up the battery lead to the negative side of the small solenoid with everything connected. I only (for a second) disconnected all cables from the solenoid and ran jumpers from the battery across the two small poles to see if it would click and what the resistance was between the two large poles. I cant find the web page where that was recommended so hopefully I didn't ruin anything.

Not sure if this explanation helps or changes anything but can you think of something else I could try or any thoughts on what the problem is?

Thanks,

Jonathan

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

HI Bob,

Thank you for the reply. I may have not explained it clearly enough (or maybe I did). By negative lead I meant my black multi meter lead. I was trying to see if I could read 48V between the yellow and blue wires but didn't know if a bad solenoid could be throwing off my reading so just disconnected it. I did not hook up the battery lead to the negative side of the small solenoid with everything connected. I only (for a second) disconnected all cables from the solenoid and ran jumpers from the battery across the two small poles to see if it would click and what the resistance was between the two large poles. I cant find the web page where that was recommended so hopefully I didn't ruin anything.

Not sure if this explanation helps or changes anything but can you think of something else I could try or any thoughts on what the problem is?

Thanks,

Jonathan

You may have already seen/used this, but attached is a document for troubleshooting the 1206hb controller. Note that most of the tests require you to backprobe the connector with the connector connected to the cart.

[jsmith101]

Thanks for this troubleshooting guide, as I re-read through it I now know where I got the guidance to connect the battery directly to the solenoid (no wonder I couldn't find the web page).

"CHECK MAIN SOLENOID:
 Disconnect all wires from the main solenoid.
 Set your VOM to RESISTANCE (Ω).
 Measure the solenoid coil. This must measure NO LESS than 100Ω.
 Connect VOM leads to the main solenoid lugs.
 Attach jumpers from main battery positive and negative to the coil (small terminals).
 Meter must jump from infinity to LESS THAN .3Ω.
 Remove jumpers and reconnect solenoid wiring from the harness. (If suppression diode is present,
the non-banded side must go to the blue wire – pin 12 from controller.)"

Didn't run through it with the connector connected because back probing was too difficult at the installed angle. Ill flip the controller and will run through the checks in order... Ill post my results when done.

Thanks,

[jsmith101]

Running through the guide and I got to Pin 7 and didn't read pack voltage. Verified continuity on both wires was good. Measured ohms across reverse buzzer and got OL. .

Could the reverse buzzer being open keeping my cart from running? If so, is there a way to bypass it to test the cart safely?

Thanks,

Jonathan

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

HI Bob,

Thank you for the reply. I may have not explained it clearly enough (or maybe I did). By negative lead I meant my black multi meter lead. I was trying to see if I could read 48V between the yellow and blue wires but didn't know if a bad solenoid could be throwing off my reading so just disconnected it. I did not hook up the battery lead to the negative side of the small solenoid with everything connected. I only (for a second) disconnected all cables from the solenoid and ran jumpers from the battery across the two small poles to see if it would click and what the resistance was between the two large poles. I cant find the web page where that was recommended so hopefully I didn't ruin anything.

Not sure if this explanation helps or changes anything but can you think of something else I could try or any thoughts on what the problem is?

Thanks,

Jonathan

You had explained it perfectly. I understood that it was just a test. All I was trying to do was to let you know not to run it for long directly from the 48V battery pack, as that could overheat and damage the solenoid. I think they switched to 48V solenoids in 2014, at the time they switched the RXVs to 48V solenoids. It's just a minor change in a controller setting to set it for either solenoid voltage.

Now for troubleshooting... Check to make sure that the solenoid in your cart is a 36V solenoid for the earlier TXT48 (pre-2014) and not the 48V solenoid for the later TXT48 (2014 and newer) because a controller set for a 36V solenoid will not likely engage a 48V solenoid!

[jsmith101]

Thanks for the advice Bob and glad I didn't run it longer than necessary. I have the 1206HB-5201 Controller. Attached is the photo of the solenoid. It looks to be a 48v but has a 02/12 date code on it so makes me think its OEM???

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

Thanks for the advice Bob and glad I didn't run it longer than necessary. I have the 1206HB-5201 Controller. Attached is the photo of the solenoid. It looks to be a 48v but has a 02/12 date code on it so makes me think its OEM???

That is a Trombetta, a very good solenoid. It's a 2012, but it is 48V. Your controller needs to be set for a 48V solenoid in order to work with it.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by jsmith101

Running through the guide and I got to Pin 7 and didn't read pack voltage. Verified continuity on both wires was good. Measured ohms across reverse buzzer and got OL. .

Could the reverse buzzer being open keeping my cart from running? If so, is there a way to bypass it to test the cart safely?

Thanks,

Jonathan

I have never run across that issue with the reverse buzzer on that model, not sure if open buzzer input is critical for Sol activation (it was not on early models, but those used mechanical switches to directly activate vs sending control signal for controller to activate).

I do know the reverse Buzzer on the RXV is critical and it will not run (without mod) with an open buzzer circuit (and may may ever again run). Actually Bob has one of my RXV controllers now to try to fix because previous owner cut buzzer wires. So, probably need Bob or Johnnie B to chime in before you do anything else with the buzzer.

That said, and don't try this until you get feedback from a real expert, but just looking at the diagram you may be able to put the cart in forward and just jumper and splice pack voltage to pin 7 for testing purposes only. However, I am also not sure why pin 7 is labeled alarm OUT on the diagram, so wait for better feedback.