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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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12-29-2019, 06:52 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 11
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Diagnosing bad controller
I have an ez-go cart that is my fathers I am trying to fix and am having trouble. It has a Curtis Controler PN 25864g05. We replaced the batteries and I have 36v on both sides of the solenoid. The cart acts like it it is not on at all. in reverse the alarm doesnt chime at all. I have check the key and it is good (ohmed it on and off and it works) the switches on the selector both show open circuit when not in gear. When i Jump the small red wire on the solenoid it runs and the wheels will move. I tried replacing the solenoid and it didnt help. I am leaning toward a bad controller. I tried to test the contoller by the steps in the sticky but it didn't work. Does anyone rebuild these boxes? I found a few on Amazon but they are pretty pricey.
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12-31-2019, 06:59 AM | #2 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: May 2017
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 90
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
I've run across this problem in the past and found my Forward / Reverse Assembly was the problem , mark all the wire positions and remove it , look for burnt or corroded posts , a key indicator for me was " one of the wiring posts " was crooked , new one cost like 85$ or thereabouts , fixed my problem
From my research it appears these controllers rarely go bad , there are also 2 micro switches on the F/R assembly you can test with your ohm meter. hope this helps . |
12-31-2019, 07:45 AM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: S.E. Mi.
Posts: 531
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
Going off the controller part number you have a series drive system. If you can jump the solenoid small terminals and the cart works you have something missing in the activation circuit. Does the solenoid click when the pedal is pressed? If not check the pedal microswitch. You need to start at the key switch and find out where you are losing the activation voltage. Another weak link is the Molex connector between the pedal box and controller, most people cut it out and connect the wires individually with solder or butt connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink.
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12-31-2019, 08:59 AM | #4 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
For a series drive cart you should have power on every end of each red line in the diagram below when you try to go. There should also be a good throttle signal. See throttle testing for this year model in the stickies (saved topics above)
GO here and positively identify the drive system of this cart now > https://www.cartsunlimited.net/upgrade-suggestions.html |
01-02-2020, 11:17 AM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 11
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
Thanks a bunch, I am going in this weekend to check a few more things on it. So far we have replaced the solenoid and it has done the same. I will try and listen for a click. I did take my ohm meter and both micoswitches on the f/r selector would read 0ohms when open and when you turn the lever it would read open so I think they are working. I took the F/R apart and actually cleaned it and saw no posts that lead me to think it was the issue. I checked the key switch by testing it off it was open and closed it was 0 ohms.
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01-02-2020, 11:25 AM | #6 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
Re reading the original post I saw you put power to the small red wire on the solenoid and the cart worked. Correct? If yes, the solenoid problem is in the activation circuit. Not the solenoid or controller.
Follow the activation diagram I posted. Look for power to the F&R micro switches. No power there? Look at the reed switch. Power at the F&R switches (in and out) look at the key switch. Key switch okay, look at the pedal switch....... by now you should have found the trouble. |
01-05-2020, 04:07 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 11
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
Well I figured out a few things. And I think it was all my fault. I had to remove the batteries to use as cores. When I put the batteries back in I had them in backwards. I had the main positive cable going to the Solenoid like it was supposed to be, and I had a negative going to the controller. But I had the charging port hooked in backwards. So now I got that corrected it is only getting 2 volts to the micro switch. The pigtail in the charging port seems to be the issue. What is this even called?
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01-05-2020, 04:27 PM | #8 |
Over This Interview Is...
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AZ
Posts: 17,449
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
That part is called "Reed switch". But, if you hooked your batteries up backward, you probably destroyed much more than just reed switch. Better have the rear axle jacked up, & be ready to quickly disconnect a battery cable. You never know what that thing might do when you hook it back up. Might do nothing, might take off at full throttle, might blow clouds of magic smoke from the controller.
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01-05-2020, 07:11 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: S.E. Mi.
Posts: 531
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
You can bypass the reed switch, it prevents the cart from running when the charger is plugged in, you can just get in the habit of running the charger cord through the steering wheel instead.
Ezgo Reed Switch bypass.jpg |
01-05-2020, 07:30 PM | #10 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 11
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Re: Diagnosing bad controller
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