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Old 02-24-2021, 03:18 PM   #11
WalterM6
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Default Re: Light and Buzzer Wiring (Check My Work)

If you would have drawn that as a schematic instead of a wiring diagram you might got more answers.
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Old 02-24-2021, 09:59 PM   #12
mccainc
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Default Light and Buzzer Wiring (Check My Work)

I think the problem is we don’t know what the pinout of those switches are without some kind of reference. But, daisy chaining the negatives will be fine, they’re just for the internal LED of the switch.

What is the amp draw of the headlights and what gauge wire is installed? That will dictate the fuse size and/or the number of circuits required.


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Old 02-25-2021, 08:45 PM   #13
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Default Re: Light and Buzzer Wiring (Check My Work)

The stock headlights and taillights I believe are 14g wire. I didn't install so I'll have to check. 13.65amps (55watt headlight, 28 watt taillight)

The LED spotlights are 3amps total with 16g. I don’t envision using them at the same time as headlights . Other switch is using 12v, to disable buzzer

Pinout attached.

My voltage reducer lists the following specs: Working power 300W; Max working current 25 amp.
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Old 02-25-2021, 09:51 PM   #14
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Default Re: Light and Buzzer Wiring (Check My Work)

If I did run a separate circuit (now or in the future), I can do a run to 7 and 8 together and 2 and 6 together as 7 and 6 are just to power the led on the switch, correct?
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Old 02-25-2021, 11:46 PM   #15
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Default Light and Buzzer Wiring (Check My Work)

Those switches with two lights caught me off guard. Your wiring will work, but isn’t the way I’d do it. You’re showing a separate run of the negative wires from the accessories to the fuse block, but then are piggybacking the positives all on one circuit, which is kind of backwards. Personally, I’d split the lights into two circuits and have separate runs of the positives into their own fuses. You could run just one negative wire for everything assuming it’s large enough to support everything being on at once, which looks like roughly 17a. You can tap the relay onto either of those circuits as it will draw very little power. At least that way one blown fuse doesn’t leave you driving home in the dark.

Yes, 7 and 6 are just for the light. You can jumper all the negatives together like you have shown, and also jumper the 2s and 6s together to save wire. I’m assuming the upper light positive is internally tied to pin 3.
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Old 02-26-2021, 08:53 AM   #16
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Default Re: Light and Buzzer Wiring (Check My Work)

Thanks mccainc. I think what you are describing is what I was originally trying to get feedback on in my initial diagram in post #1.

I have each set of lights on its own circuit and the relay tapped into the LED spotlight circuit since that circuit should have less load.

I didn't tie together the negatives in my initial because the headlights are already run on the cart so I figured I could just run an additional wire to ground rather than tying everything together.

With what you describe, each small switch led light will get power from the positive on its own circuit (with the relay and spots sharing a circuit).

Ground wires would be individually run, but I could tie the spotlight, relay and grounds for all three rocker switches together (this is a difference from my diagram based on what I learned from you...i would just need wire that could handle grounding spots, buzzer relay). The headlights would remain separate (just because its already run).

Does this make sense? This is the original image I shared:
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Old 02-27-2021, 11:15 AM   #17
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Default Re: Light and Buzzer Wiring (Check My Work)

Yes, that makes sense. Since the headlight wiring is already there, you can leave it unmolested and just run pos and neg wires for the spots. That negative can be tapped for the switch light negs and the relay as you described. If your spots are only 3 amps you won’t need very large wire. The switch lights and relay current draw is minuscule.
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