Voltage reducers

[tsafey]

Originally Posted by Stevegrmich

. . not an issue when one uses a reducer that also has trigger wire that turns off reducer with key switch . . .

Are you referring to buying a quality reducer such as Madjax ($100+)? I have seen some $25 ones out there.

[Stevegrmich]

Originally Posted by tsafey

Are you referring to buying a quality reducer such as Madjax ($100+)? I have seen some $25 ones out there.

. . . I did not mention price/brand . . . only that if one uses a reducer with a trigger wire, the reducer is not functional when keyswitch is OFF . . .

[Jim C]

Originally Posted by gumpbuck

Go with a reducer all the way. You won't be sorry. I use a reducer, a on/off switch and a fuse block for all my accesories. A reducer will drain a small amount fo juice over time. So I have a switch that I flip before I use any of my accesories. The fuse block I use has room for up to 6 items. Currently I have a stereo and two different sets of lights. I use a 30 amp reducer BTW. A pic of my fuse block is in my album, titled Meat Wagon. You batteries will thank you with better life.....

gumpbuck, would you post what led's you have and your opinion of them here http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/lifte...-lighting.html

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by Stevegrmich

. . not an issue when one uses a reducer that also has trigger wire that turns off reducer with key switch . . .

Yes it's still an issue if one doesn't want said reducer running 24/7 while driving. The "trigger" wire is still 36v and will pop a switch light in an heartbeat. Waste of battery to leave reducer on with key when it is not needed. He said he wanted one for a light kit, so 85-95% of his use will prob be daylight when no reducer is needed.


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[Jim C]

Is there really enough draw to worry about when your using it regularly.
I could see it if it were parked an extended amount of time.

[jay1028]

It depends on what kind of light kit he is going to install. I had to use the key switch to feed 36v to the trigger wire. I was wondering how much current it would draw if no 12 v lights were on. There was not even 1 milliamp. Don't know how they do it. This is the one I have just hooked up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181437444401...S:3160&vxp=mtr

I have to enable it when the key switch is on because the brakes and turn signals need 12v. You can't just turn the converter on just when you want to run lights in my case.

Yellow=trigger (+36v)
Green=+12V out to 12V lights (fuse block)
Red=+36V input from pack
Blk=common negative (-36v,-12v)

[teecro]

Originally Posted by UncleJerm76

Yes it's still an issue if one doesn't want said reducer running 24/7 while driving. The "trigger" wire is still 36v and will pop a switch light in an heartbeat. Waste of battery to leave reducer on with key when it is not needed. He said he wanted one for a light kit, so 85-95% of his use will prob be daylight when no reducer is needed.


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Put in a switch without a light and/or get 12VDC from after the reducer to power the light if you just have to have one... Keep in mind to that while the reducer does have a draw even when not in use the draw is purely load dependent so when it is idle its draw goes down...

[jay1028]

Evidently, all reducers are not created the same. Mine draws absolutely nothing when the yellow trigger wire is not at 36v. It is a tough job for a switch to turn on a reducer initially, because there is a substantial spark when connected to the 36v pack and a switch will have to handle that surge every time your turn on the reducer. That is why they use a trigger wire to turn it on. The yellow trigger wire in my reducer only requires 36v at 20ma, so any small switch can handle that. I use the three position key switch that came with the cart.

[Stevegrmich]

Originally Posted by UncleJerm76

Yes it's still an issue if one doesn't want said reducer running 24/7 while driving. The "trigger" wire is still 36v and will pop a switch light in an heartbeat. Waste of battery to leave reducer on with key when it is not needed. He said he wanted one for a light kit, so 85-95% of his use will prob be daylight when no reducer is needed.


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. . . your opinion seems contrary to the majority of people on this forum . . .

[jay1028]

Steve,

Completely agree. Was wondering if anyone was going to let that go or agree.

As I stated, the yellow trigger wire on my unit (when a DMM was connected in series with it) was drawing a mere 20ma. Hardly going to 'pop' any kind of switch.


Jay