New G16...Well, to me!

RAchenbach · 05-30-2017, 09:57 AM

Picked up a 1998 G16 last weekend, I have no history with golf or go carts. I picked it up at a discount because it wasn't running very good. It runs, but sometimes only for a few minutes and other times for only a few seconds. It has a clear fuel filter in line before the carb, so I can see when it chokes up gas is no longer flowing. I did some reading here for a week before registering and posting, see if anyone agrees or disagrees with what I believe the problem is.

Problem seems to be fuel delivery, perhaps a vacuum issue. I have done the following checks:

1) cleaned carb 2 jets, after cleaning I screwed them back in tight as that is how they were when I removed them. They were not clogged.

2) drained tank and replaced with fresh gas

3) removed and disassembled fuel pump, it was not dirty

4) changed spark plug

5) checked for vacuum leaks, tightened down carb, rechecked airbox (for air leaks) but did not replace air filter or foam, did spray with air to remove dust. I noticed oil was in the filter box, which I read could be due to too much oil when last changed. Made sure valve cover was tight, and checked all hoses from tank to fuel pump, pump to carb, and pulse line to crank. All seem fine with no cracks. I added a second clamp to the hose on the pulse fitting as I read this was a common area for leaks.

6) I then noticed (after learning there is a neutral) that if I pulled the pulse line off while the engine is running, gasoline is dripping down it and also bubbling out of the screen thing on the fuel pump face. I smelled the dipstick and sure enough I believe there is gas getting down and mixing with the oil. Perhaps this explains why the oil is overflowing and getting pulled into the air box?

I am assuming at this point the fuel pump is shot, as gas should clearly not be in the pulse line. I have ordered a new fuel pump (aftermarket off Amazon) and also plan on doing an immediate oil change, not sure if I should go regular or the Mobile 1 synthetic. The only apparent mods are it is lifted with larger tires/rims. I also plan on getting a feeler gauge today and finishing up the repair with a valve adjustment if needed.

Any thoughts on the diagnosis of the problem and/or course of action?

BrewCityMusic · 05-30-2017, 10:12 AM

Sounds like You're on the right track, the easiest way to test the fuel pump is to pull the fuel line off the carb and turn the engine over, You should get a strong squirt (6" or more) of fuel, any less and the pump is going or gone ... The bubbling and fuel heading down the pulse tube is definitely a sign of something amiss though. As to the oil, I don't bother with synthetic *however* I'm "that guy" who changes oil at least twice a season, if You're going to try and run a full season out of it then the syn might not be a bad idea.

RAchenbach · 05-30-2017, 01:45 PM

Thanks for the input, I had done that into a bucket and it certainly was not strong. New pump arrives tomorrow!

Dave in VA · 05-30-2017, 04:37 PM

A faulty needle/float valve in the carb will cause this. OEM parts are the best.

RAchenbach · 05-31-2017, 07:25 AM

All floats I have seen before have a metal tang that can be bent to adjust the float, this one is all formed plastic so I'm not even sure how to adjust the float? Are there any other things I should consider adjusting on the carb?

Dave in VA · 05-31-2017, 07:36 AM

Don't worry about trying to adjust the float. The rubber tip of the needle valve is probably worn, especially if it is the original. Replace it and the bowl gasket.

RAchenbach · 06-01-2017, 08:45 PM

Needle looked pretty good when I took it off, I was surprised. New fuel pump is on and it solved the problem. I changed the oil, the amount of gas mixed in with the oil was crazy, when I got the drain bolt out it sprayed everywhere. I'm going to do another oil change after a few hours. Next step is to check the valves and adjust them as I assume after 20 years it will need it.

I tightened up the bit on the governor a bit and have it rolling pretty good at 20-21mph on the flats and the neighborhood speed limit is 20 so i'm good to go there.

One last question for now, is the pulse line supposed to go under the air filter box or be long enough to route around it? I'm thinking of replacing with a longer hose as it barely makes it to the fuel pump...having to go straight under the air box.

cgtech · 06-02-2017, 02:11 AM

It was originally routed pretty tight under the airbox.

olson boy · 06-02-2017, 03:28 PM

If the pulsar line is routed incorrectly the air box will pinch it and that will not allow the fuel pump to work correctly.

sho305 · 06-04-2017, 08:36 PM

I run synthetic heck its only a quart. But I add zinc additive to any small engine now because they took it out. If you get off road or lawn oil it has it in it, but car oil it is reduced. I don't like the idea of a splash oiler without the zinc.

You should pop a umax spring the the secondary if it does not have it, that will help torque off the line and at low speeds. They are only $15 though they are a little fun to install lol. They are a good upgrade when you lift a cart, usually kind of boggy at low speeds without.

05-30-2017, 09:57 AM	#1
RAchenbach Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 4	New G16...Well, to me! Picked up a 1998 G16 last weekend, I have no history with golf or go carts. I picked it up at a discount because it wasn't running very good. It runs, but sometimes only for a few minutes and other times for only a few seconds. It has a clear fuel filter in line before the carb, so I can see when it chokes up gas is no longer flowing. I did some reading here for a week before registering and posting, see if anyone agrees or disagrees with what I believe the problem is. Problem seems to be fuel delivery, perhaps a vacuum issue. I have done the following checks: 1) cleaned carb 2 jets, after cleaning I screwed them back in tight as that is how they were when I removed them. They were not clogged. 2) drained tank and replaced with fresh gas 3) removed and disassembled fuel pump, it was not dirty 4) changed spark plug 5) checked for vacuum leaks, tightened down carb, rechecked airbox (for air leaks) but did not replace air filter or foam, did spray with air to remove dust. I noticed oil was in the filter box, which I read could be due to too much oil when last changed. Made sure valve cover was tight, and checked all hoses from tank to fuel pump, pump to carb, and pulse line to crank. All seem fine with no cracks. I added a second clamp to the hose on the pulse fitting as I read this was a common area for leaks. 6) I then noticed (after learning there is a neutral) that if I pulled the pulse line off while the engine is running, gasoline is dripping down it and also bubbling out of the screen thing on the fuel pump face. I smelled the dipstick and sure enough I believe there is gas getting down and mixing with the oil. Perhaps this explains why the oil is overflowing and getting pulled into the air box? I am assuming at this point the fuel pump is shot, as gas should clearly not be in the pulse line. I have ordered a new fuel pump (aftermarket off Amazon) and also plan on doing an immediate oil change, not sure if I should go regular or the Mobile 1 synthetic. The only apparent mods are it is lifted with larger tires/rims. I also plan on getting a feeler gauge today and finishing up the repair with a valve adjustment if needed. Any thoughts on the diagnosis of the problem and/or course of action?
RAchenbach Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 4

05-30-2017, 10:12 AM	#2
BrewCityMusic Hammer Down !!!! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Lake Geneva, WI Posts: 2,681	Re: New G16...Well, to me! Sounds like You're on the right track, the easiest way to test the fuel pump is to pull the fuel line off the carb and turn the engine over, You should get a strong squirt (6" or more) of fuel, any less and the pump is going or gone ... The bubbling and fuel heading down the pulse tube is definitely a sign of something amiss though. As to the oil, I don't bother with synthetic however I'm "that guy" who changes oil at least twice a season, if You're going to try and run a full season out of it then the syn might not be a bad idea.

05-30-2017, 01:45 PM	#3
RAchenbach Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 4	Re: New G16...Well, to me! Thanks for the input, I had done that into a bucket and it certainly was not strong. New pump arrives tomorrow!
RAchenbach Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 4

05-30-2017, 04:37 PM	#4
Dave in VA maintaining a low profile Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: SW Virginia USA Posts: 6,316	Re: New G16...Well, to me! A faulty needle/float valve in the carb will cause this. OEM parts are the best.

05-31-2017, 07:25 AM	#5
RAchenbach Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 4	Re: New G16...Well, to me! All floats I have seen before have a metal tang that can be bent to adjust the float, this one is all formed plastic so I'm not even sure how to adjust the float? Are there any other things I should consider adjusting on the carb?
RAchenbach Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 4

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05-31-2017, 07:36 AM	#6
Dave in VA maintaining a low profile Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: SW Virginia USA Posts: 6,316	Re: New G16...Well, to me! Don't worry about trying to adjust the float. The rubber tip of the needle valve is probably worn, especially if it is the original. Replace it and the bowl gasket.

06-01-2017, 08:45 PM	#7
RAchenbach Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 4	Re: New G16...Well, to me! Needle looked pretty good when I took it off, I was surprised. New fuel pump is on and it solved the problem. I changed the oil, the amount of gas mixed in with the oil was crazy, when I got the drain bolt out it sprayed everywhere. I'm going to do another oil change after a few hours. Next step is to check the valves and adjust them as I assume after 20 years it will need it. I tightened up the bit on the governor a bit and have it rolling pretty good at 20-21mph on the flats and the neighborhood speed limit is 20 so i'm good to go there. One last question for now, is the pulse line supposed to go under the air filter box or be long enough to route around it? I'm thinking of replacing with a longer hose as it barely makes it to the fuel pump...having to go straight under the air box.
RAchenbach Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2017 Posts: 4

06-02-2017, 02:11 AM	#8
cgtech Over This Interview Is... Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: AZ Posts: 17,449	Re: New G16...Well, to me! It was originally routed pretty tight under the airbox.

06-02-2017, 03:28 PM	#9
olson boy Not Yet Wild Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Florida Posts: 38	Re: New G16...Well, to me! If the pulsar line is routed incorrectly the air box will pinch it and that will not allow the fuel pump to work correctly.

06-04-2017, 08:36 PM	#10
sho305 Vegas modded 420 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: West MI Posts: 15,443	Re: New G16...Well, to me! I run synthetic heck its only a quart. But I add zinc additive to any small engine now because they took it out. If you get off road or lawn oil it has it in it, but car oil it is reduced. I don't like the idea of a splash oiler without the zinc. You should pop a umax spring the the secondary if it does not have it, that will help torque off the line and at low speeds. They are only $15 though they are a little fun to install lol. They are a good upgrade when you lift a cart, usually kind of boggy at low speeds without.