Cart shuts down randomly

[wildandwonderfulprod]

Have a 93 club car DS. I did solid-state conversion probably four years ago and did all new cables, controller, Accelerator (pb6?) Motor and all from Scotty B. Everything has gone well and you can see my build in older posts. Now, Cart randomly shuts off and still shows 50 V on the digital meter. Went through all the cables recently and cleaned all battery cables and terminals replaced a few cable lugs and checked all the wiring for anything obvious. I Can hear solenoid click on accelerator and can see green light on controller. Weird part is, Green light will come on at the beginning of accelerator stroke and then go off about a quarter way through and then back on towards full throttle. No movement in forward or reverse. What should I be looking for? It's all at once, not shuttering or back-and-forth. No Change turning key off and on. Also checked pb6 with ohm meter and shows like 5.64 at full throttle? Haven't hooked up when it's not wanting to move, but that was my first thought was pb6 going out. Any help appreciated!


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[wildandwonderfulprod]

Originally Posted by wildandwonderfulprod

Have a 93 club car DS. I did solid-state conversion probably four years ago and did all new cables, controller, Accelerator (pb6?) Motor and all from Scotty B. Everything has gone well and you can see my build in older posts. Now, Cart randomly shuts off and still shows 50 V on the digital meter. Went through all the cables recently and cleaned all battery cables and terminals replaced a few cable lugs and checked all the wiring for anything obvious. I Can hear solenoid click on accelerator and can see green light on controller. Weird part is, Green light will come on at the beginning of accelerator stroke and then go off about a quarter way through and then back on towards full throttle. No movement in forward or reverse. What should I be looking for? It's all at once, not shuttering or back-and-forth. No Change turning key off and on. Also checked pb6 with ohm meter and shows like 5.64 at full throttle? Haven't hooked up when it's not wanting to move, but that was my first thought was pb6 going out. Any help appreciated!


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Also, if I wait a while it will run just fine. ?!?!?!


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i'd send scotty an email ... but i think it sounds like a over heat problem

[Edd]

Originally Posted by wildandwonderfulprod

Have a 93 club car DS. I did solid-state conversion probably four years ago and did all new cables, controller, Accelerator (pb6?) Motor and all from Scotty B. Everything has gone well and you can see my build in older posts. Now, Cart randomly shuts off and still shows 50 V on the digital meter. Went through all the cables recently and cleaned all battery cables and terminals replaced a few cable lugs and checked all the wiring for anything obvious. I Can hear solenoid click on accelerator and can see green light on controller. Weird part is, Green light will come on at the beginning of accelerator stroke and then go off about a quarter way through and then back on towards full throttle. No movement in forward or reverse. What should I be looking for? It's all at once, not shuttering or back-and-forth. No Change turning key off and on. Also checked pb6 with ohm meter and shows like 5.64 at full throttle? Haven't hooked up when it's not wanting to move, but that was my first thought was pb6 going out. Any help appreciated!


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This is EXACTLY what I am dealing with. See "Altrax Controller Help" post on page two. When the cart is not working check the solenoid across the large posts for vdc. What I swear I saw (can't verify because the stinking thing is working now) was pack voltage and there should not be. It should be just a few volts and go to zero just after solenoid click when depressing the pedal. I SWEAR I saw pack voltage before and after click which indicates something going on with the resistor...

[wildandwonderfulprod]

Originally Posted by Edd

This is EXACTLY what I am dealing with. See "Altrax Controller Help" post on page two. When the cart is not working check the solenoid across the large posts for vdc. What I swear I saw (can't verify because the stinking thing is working now) was pack voltage and there should not be. It should be just a few volts and go to zero just after solenoid click when depressing the pedal. I SWEAR I saw pack voltage before and after click which indicates something going on with the resistor...

What's vdc? And are you saying that I should depress the pedal just slightly and check voltage as I am pushing throttle? I understand the big posts on the solenoid but didn't realize the controller did anything for the solenoid.


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[Dlab]

Mine has all the same components and has done it a couple of times too.......

[wildandwonderfulprod]

OK, so new update. I replaced my PB6 with a new one from ebay, per suggestion of Scottyb. Well, it ran fine THAT day. Next day, wouldn't move. day after, moved fine in the barn but i wouldn't leave the house site for fear of getting stuck agaain. SO what should i be looking for next? Im thinking solenoid? or the resistors that i installed with it? Thought someone mentioned that. Can I replace solenoid and resistors just in case? HELP!!!!! Volt meter still shows 50+ meters whether moving or not.......

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by wildandwonderfulprod

OK, so new update. I replaced my PB6 with a new one from ebay, per suggestion of Scottyb. Well, it ran fine THAT day. Next day, wouldn't move. day after, moved fine in the barn but i wouldn't leave the house site for fear of getting stuck agaain. SO what should i be looking for next? Im thinking solenoid? or the resistors that i installed with it? Thought someone mentioned that. Can I replace solenoid and resistors just in case? HELP!!!!! Volt meter still shows 50+ meters whether moving or not.......

If the solenoid closes and still has some voltage across the large terminals, the contacts are burned and the solenoid will need to be replaced.

Jack up one rear wheel, clip the DVM leads to the large terminals, should have 48 volts. Press the accelerator and see if the voltage drops to 0. If not, the contacts are burned.

[wildandwonderfulprod]

I’ll do this tonight. Can you tell me, how does this relate to it working intermittently


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[Tom47]

Originally Posted by wildandwonderfulprod

I’ll do this tonight. Can you tell me, how does this relate to it working intermittently


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Solenoid contacts can become burned, corroded, or glazed. They will often close one time and not the next.

You could install a voltmeter TEMPORARILY across the large posts. It should read 48 volts nominal and then go to 0 volts when it closes. This way you could actually check it while you drive it around the yard.

If you read anything but 0 volts when it closes, the contacts are corrupted. The solenoid will need to be replaced.

Make sure there is a diode installed correctly on the solenoid coil. This will prevent back EMF voltages from arcing the contacts when they open. The banded side must be on the POSITIVE coil terminal, normally the solid blue wire.

If the solenoid does not have a diode or it is open, there is your cause for the solenoid failure.