2012 RXV brake problem - Curtis Controller

[agpfl]

Thanks for the reply Bob.

So starting with the wiring, should I do a continuity test on all wires related to the braking system? If so, where do I start? What pin on the harness to what endpoint/location?

[MNgolfcart]

Check the wire harness on the passenger side going to the front of the cart. In the wire loom there is a a red wire that connects to two or three red wires. I've had it where the connection is bad and the cart will not run.

Also has anyone thought of it being the encoder bearing?

[usgicollector]

What Bob is suggesting you get a new wiring harness and controller. If not new, wiring harness and controller that is known to be good.

You got to much wrong with the wiring harness your working with.

[agpfl]

Way too expensive to just buy a whole new wiring harness just to troubleshoot. I am working on continuity testing between anything I can identify.

I might have found the issue though. When checking continuity from pin 5 to what should be the run plug, I found that black wire was not connected. The other black wire that runs to b- battery was connected to the black-white wire. I swapped wires and now I no longer have 48v at the parking brake. Same error on programmer.

Troubleshooting guide shows pin 5 should have +48v. I have no voltage either + or - on it. When its connected to the black-white wire there is no voltage until I press the brake pedal all the way down. I then have -48v.

Does this indicate the controller needs to be repaired? I am pretty confident that the previous person who worked on this cart had no clue what wires they were trying to connect in the run plug area and probably cross connected the wrong ones and probably zapped something.

[HiTechRedNeck]

You are going to blow the controller with all this trial and error wiring (if not blown already)

order new wire harness and start from there.

there are 2 wires under cupholder that go to a factory wire harness relay for BRAKE LIGHTS
only.... these will not have any effect on motor brake and are not in any way connected to run plug or brake.

there is no relay for parking brake. control of parking brake is 100% inside controller.

[agpfl]

FSIP tested the controller and found EM Brake Coil and D2 short and it needed to be remaned. Just got it back and installed it. Everything is working. Only issue is that the cart is only running 10mph. Used the programmer I bought and found they have removed freedom mode, even though I asked them if that would happen and they said no. I modified profile 2 and can get up to 15mph, so either my friend will need to pay for the passkey again, or FSIP will have to take care of it. My guess is that FSIP upgraded/flashed the controller and it wiped everything out.

It was a tough journey to get this thing running. I wish my friend would have told me the whole story of all the attempts troubleshoot the issues. The chain of events all started with the run plug getting corroded and some of the wires fell out. There was a failed attempt at just twisting the correct wires together that caused the controller to fail. They disconnected the batteries so they could get the cart to roll, but found that would not help. When they reconnected the batteries, they connected the positive from the charger port to battery 2 instead of battery 1 by mistake. They then removed the motor brake so they could move the cart. Next they thought maybe the solenoid was bad so they replaced it, but over tightened the B+ lug and spun it around breaking the brand new solenoid.

[Ricocart]

HI AGPFL, can you elaborate on the EM brake coil, where is it located and what is it? Can you also elaborate on the D2 short? I think I may have a similar problem. I have an RXV with a navitas controller (was working great) and now I don't think I pass the startup test. Everything looks good in the diagnostics except the Brake test. Cart Jerks after startup when you hit the gas. I need to get my cart back on the road before Halloween! And Bob, I love reading your posts. So knowledgeable and helpful!!! Thanks all.

[BobBoyce]

Buy a Curtis controller and get it reprogrammed. It'll put that controller to shame! LOL

[Ricocart]

I've replaced the Solenoid, Motor Brake and Bearing encoder. Cart still jerks when you hit the gas. Any ideas? Is there a way to check the motor of my 2008 RXV? Could it actually be simple like the brake switch. Can I test the brake switch. My Navitas controller is very impressive. Just can't seem to diagnose my problem.

Maybe a dumb obvious question. The grey wire from my charging port that has a small black box at the end of the gray wire is broke off where ever it connects to. I thought it was like that when the cart worked. Is it possible that wire us causing my cart to not move and jerk?
Thanks all.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Ricocart

I've replaced the Solenoid, Motor Brake and Bearing encoder. Cart still jerks when you hit the gas. Any ideas? Is there a way to check the motor of my 2008 RXV? Could it actually be simple like the brake switch. Can I test the brake switch. My Navitas controller is very impressive. Just can't seem to diagnose my problem.

Maybe a dumb obvious question. The grey wire from my charging port that has a small black box at the end of the gray wire is broke off where ever it connects to. I thought it was like that when the cart worked. Is it possible that wire us causing my cart to not move and jerk?
Thanks all.

Simply put... Yes

It is a temperature sensor for the battery pack. It must be operational.