lifted club cars - lifted ezgo
Home FAQDonate Who's Online
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Electric EZGO
Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



Post New Thread  Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-21-2018, 01:41 PM   #1
tommy-g
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 34
Default Move light switch to dash?

Hi all,

I currently have an EZGO 2007.

The light switch is on the key, if you turn it an extra "click" the lights come on. I was curious about moving it to a switch panel I made in the dash.

I am "somewhat" handy, but not overly so. Enough to wire up some LED under the cart and a radio.

Anyway, I tried searching but couldn't find anything like this. If possible, I would want it to be keyed as well, so the lights can't be on if the key is out.

Thanks for any info.
tommy-g is offline   Reply With Quote
Alt Today
BGW

Golf car forum Sponsored Links

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum
   
Old 09-21-2018, 08:51 PM   #2
yurtle
Gone Mad
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

Are you OK having to turn the key switch the extra click, but also using a separate switch? If so, it's easy. If not, you'll need a relay to control the light circuit with the key AND a separate switch. Let us know.
yurtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2018, 08:34 AM   #3
tommy-g
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 34
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

Quote:
Originally Posted by yurtle View Post
Are you OK having to turn the key switch the extra click, but also using a separate switch? If so, it's easy. If not, you'll need a relay to control the light circuit with the key AND a separate switch. Let us know.
A) I am fine with the key having to be the extra click, if it makes an easier install.

Not to derail my own thread, but I just spent 3 hours organizing and figuring out what I have done over the years :)

I have more electrical questions, I will put them in here to keep it all together...

B) I found 2 fuse “boxes”, one looks older, tube fuses, and looks like only one fuse is in, it goes to my lights. However, there are two “other wires hooked up, but no fuses. I traced one to a wire coming to dash, it is red. With it, is a black wire, but I don’t know where it goes. I am assuming this was setup for future use ? They have female spade plugs on them...

https://piccollage.com/_oaDAnpm0

C) The other wire coming from fuse box is not yet identified,It is an orange wire if that helps... it has no fuse and looks like a “default” install?

https://piccollage.com/_so7IqAOp

D) I also have a square plug hanging out of the dash, looks like maybe a stereo type plug? Wondering if the above orange wire powers this plug, but no orange wires in harness. Any idea how to test this, or what this would come as default from dealer?

E) In the second fuse block, I think I installed, is a blade type, has 3 items in it, LED lights, and the radio. Does the radio need two? I don’t know what else it would be, and it’s inside the same wire tube as radio wires.

I have also, I guess in the past, ran two sets of wires to dash where switches go...

F) Lights were already on cart, I traced the green wire from fuse box to battery5, but don’t see the negative.. I disconnected a black coming to battery6, that I wasn’t sure what it was, and lights didn’t work. So I assume somewhere that black wire is a net to that 12 volts....? However, there is a red wire to Battery1, that comes from same wire case. This doesn’t seem right to me.. I labeled it lights last night, because the black wire seemed be lights, but now I’m not sure. It seems like typical install, so hoping someone can explain the red wire to battery1.

https://piccollage.com/_kuisSxR6

Once this all gets figured out, I have a new fuse box to install and get rid of the other two, want it on a 36->12 reducer, no idea how many amps I need...

Thanks in advance for all the help...
tommy-g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2018, 09:48 AM   #4
kernal
Gone Wild
 
kernal's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Peachtree City, Ga.
Posts: 2,759
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy-g View Post
A) I am fine with the key having to be the extra click, if it makes an easier install.

Not to derail my own thread, but I just spent 3 hours organizing and figuring out what I have done over the years :)

I have more electrical questions, I will put them in here to keep it all together...

B) I found 2 fuse “boxes”, one looks older, tube fuses, and looks like only one fuse is in, it goes to my lights. However, there are two “other wires hooked up, but no fuses. I traced one to a wire coming to dash, it is red. With it, is a black wire, but I don’t know where it goes. I am assuming this was setup for future use ? They have female spade plugs on them...

https://piccollage.com/_oaDAnpm0

C) The other wire coming from fuse box is not yet identified,It is an orange wire if that helps... it has no fuse and looks like a “default” install?

https://piccollage.com/_so7IqAOp

D) I also have a square plug hanging out of the dash, looks like maybe a stereo type plug? Wondering if the above orange wire powers this plug, but no orange wires in harness. Any idea how to test this, or what this would come as default from dealer?

E) In the second fuse block, I think I installed, is a blade type, has 3 items in it, LED lights, and the radio. Does the radio need two? I don’t know what else it would be, and it’s inside the same wire tube as radio wires.

I have also, I guess in the past, ran two sets of wires to dash where switches go...

F) Lights were already on cart, I traced the green wire from fuse box to battery5, but don’t see the negative.. I disconnected a black coming to battery6, that I wasn’t sure what it was, and lights didn’t work. So I assume somewhere that black wire is a net to that 12 volts....? However, there is a red wire to Battery1, that comes from same wire case. This doesn’t seem right to me.. I labeled it lights last night, because the black wire seemed be lights, but now I’m not sure. It seems like typical install, so hoping someone can explain the red wire to battery1.

https://piccollage.com/_kuisSxR6

Once this all gets figured out, I have a new fuse box to install and get rid of the other two, want it on a 36->12 reducer, no idea how many amps I need...

Thanks in advance for all the help...
Fuse panel with glass fuses is original on carts with factory lights (3 position key switch). Fuses for lights, horn, brake lights if equipped. Positive power to fuse box comes on green wire from center rear battery. Negative 12v (black wire) connection for all 12v accessories is on the passenger rear battery. So, typically from the factory there are 3 + connections on the passenger front battery--large 4ga cable (high current), small white wire (from charge receptacle) and small red wire (battery SOC meter). Also 3 negative connections on the passenger rear battery--large 4ga cable (high current), small black wire (from charge receptacle), and small black wire (negative connection for the 12v wiring harness. (common ground for all 12v accessories). Carts with factory lights sometimes have a connection for factory turn signals as part of the 12v harness whether the cart has signals or not. This is usually found under the cup holder and consists of a molex type plug and 2 separate wires, red and black as I recall.
There is 36v to the key switch and 12v to the key switch. The attached diagram only shows the 12v part of the harness and includes accessories you likely don't have.
Since you and maybe others have modified the cart it is difficult to guess what is what now.
I moved the entire 12v system on my cart to a separate battery years ago but eliminated the 3 position key switch. The light switch is illuminated when on so headlights activated is obvious from drivers seat during daytime.
kernal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2018, 09:49 AM   #5
kernal
Gone Wild
 
kernal's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Peachtree City, Ga.
Posts: 2,759
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

Here is the diagram that didn't get posted.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Accessory Wiring golf cart ezgo.jpg (80.8 KB, 0 views)
kernal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2018, 10:13 AM   #6
yurtle
Gone Mad
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

If you want the lights to turn off when you turn the key off, and don't mind turning the keyswitch two clicks, all you need to do is find the 12 volt circuit on the keyswitch, and connect your other switch in series with that switch. It really doesn't matter which wire you run to your new switch, as long as you don't confuse the 12 volt and 36 volt circuits.
yurtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2018, 06:44 PM   #7
tommy-g
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 34
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

Thanks for this info, I have read it a couple times lol

This explains a lot!

Only question I have right now is...
What is the 4th wire (red) going to passenger side front?

See my last picture.. it comes out of same sleeve as the negative 12v accessory you mentioned above...
tommy-g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2018, 08:10 PM   #8
kernal
Gone Wild
 
kernal's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Peachtree City, Ga.
Posts: 2,759
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

On my cart that goes to the factory installed battery state of charge meter.
kernal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2018, 09:40 AM   #9
tommy-g
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 34
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

hmm... it definitely comes from factory.. but the cart didn't come with a meter.

Several years ago i installed the dummy bar meter, and ran wires through cart for it.

This past week, I just used the same wires to hook up the new ones with numbers...

So to mess with this more, i just disconnect that red wire to Bat1 and see what happens?

In this picture (same as above) https://piccollage.com/_so7IqAOp I dont understand the negative side. So the green wire is powering the entire fuse box, and I can see the bar across the bottom.

And the black wire that goes to Bat6 NEG is coming from the LightKit right.

So every accessory I add to this same circuit would have to run to battery6 neg??

My new fuse box, (if this isnt it, its very close) https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-5025-...uit-fuse-block has a common negative.

So I would run a new wire from this common neg bar in fuse box to battery6 neg, and then reroute the current black wire from lights back into the neg side of the box.

Doing this would make it simple to use some of the prepulled wires for hooking up the switch. Thinking I will just use the red/black combo for the turn signals :) Except for lots of extra wire, seems this would work.

Guess its best to get behind the key switch and try to just splice it there so I only need 1 foot of wire :) Ensuring I get the 12v wire.

Then all new accessories should run back to the neg bus on fuse box right?

Sorry, I know its probably easy, I just want to make sure before I mess something up :)

On the 36-12 converter, how many AMPS do I need to cover? comes in 10, 20, 30 etc...

On your 12v accessory battery, do you run a solar charger or just charge it separate. Is it deepcell? Do you keep lights on the cart battery pack or they run off aux? Curious about answer, because it seems that as long as the cart has power, you want to have lights. You may run the risk of 12v being dead and no lights, but cart still good to go.

Thanks again for the help, it already looks so much better in the seat well, all wires labeled, and your help is truly appreciated.
tommy-g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2018, 09:59 AM   #10
orangeman6
Gone Wild
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,300
Default Re: Move light switch to dash?

That green wire is providing 12v + to the factory fuse panel, specifically the bottom portion of it. The fuses pass that 12v to the other side where the accessory feeds are.

Yes, feed the bus bar on your new fuse block with - and run all accessory -‘s to that bus bar.

I’m not sure what exactly your asking about the key switch, but use your mm to figure out which pin on the switch is which.

Some people prefer a separate 12v battery, but it seems more guys go the reducer route. I’d get a 30 amp reducer from Scotty at Cartsunlimited. You’d have to calculate the amp draw of all accessories to find out exactly what size you need, but why not just give yourself plenty of room. You never know what you might want later.

You have to decide how you want to activate your 12v power, and how you want to control each accessory. That will dictate how you wire everything.
orangeman6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Go Back   Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum > Golf Cart Repair and Troubleshooting > Electric EZGO


Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Forum
CCP Orange Dash Light - No OBC Electric Club Car
Winter oil? Red dash light on. Gas Club Car
98 txt dcs want to convert for switch to dash rocker switch Electric EZGO
2003 TXT Dash - Ignition and Light Switch Gas EZGO
Battery Dash Light Electric Club Car


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:13 AM.


Club Car Electric | EZGO Electric | Lifted Golf Carts | Gas EZGO | Used Golf Carts and Parts

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This Website and forum is the property of Buggiesgonewild.com. No material may be taken or duplicated in part or full without prior written consent of the owners of buggiesgonewild.com. © 2006-2017 Buggiesgonewild.com. All rights reserved.