1994 TXT series strange power!

[jellyroll22]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html

This is the diagnostic thread I was using. I was looking at ITS since it didn't have the correct readings according to this diagnostic thread. Got the solenoid clicking with the pedal. With pedal pressed, between B+ and M- I get 0.5 volts of controller output. Both ITS, that according the the diagnostics are bad, work in the other cart.

Controller junk?

[JohnnieB]

Measure between B- and M-. Should be full battery pack voltage when pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click.

If you don't get full battery voltage, there is a bad high current cable, connection or contact.

If you do get full battery voltage, press pedal to floor and the voltage ought to decrease to 0V.

If it doesn't, either the throttle is bad or the controller is bad.

I've got some things to take care of, be back this evening.

[jellyroll22]

B- and m- as you said, once solenoid clicks I get full pack voltage. That value doesn’t change with pedal to floor.

And thanks again for your help!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jellyroll22

B- and m- as you said, once solenoid clicks I get full pack voltage. That value doesn’t change with pedal to floor.

And thanks again for your help!

That pretty much narrows it down to bad controller or bad throttle.

Attached is how to test the ITS throttle system.

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If the throttle is good, the controller is most likely bad. (Can't be 100% sure without opening the controller and troubleshooting down to component level without a schematic.)

[jellyroll22]

For the first step (pin 1 white wire) i get a fluctuating number as high as 14 and low as 9 or so, isn’t consistent.

I realize I’m not supposed to move on but just for grins—on pin 2 - black- I sometimes get odd negative numbers that settle toward zero, then upon depressing the pedal I get 0, no change all the way to the floor.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jellyroll22

For the first step (pin 1 white wire) i get a fluctuating number as high as 14 and low as 9 or so, isn’t consistent.

I realize I’m not supposed to move on but just for grins—on pin 2 - black- I sometimes get odd negative numbers that settle toward zero, then upon depressing the pedal I get 0, no change all the way to the floor.

Follow the gray cable out of the pedal box and see if there is an in-line connector connecting the four wires it contains to the carts wiring harness.

If so, cut the 4-pin connector out and replace it with individual butt splices and adhesive lined (marine grade) shrink tube, or solder joints and shrink tubes.

When that 4-pinb connection get dirty/corroded and damp, all sorts of strange things happen, so the best answer is to eliminate it. (The sole purpose of the connector was to make the cart easier to assemble at the factory)

[yurtle]

This.

[jellyroll22]

JohnnieB is a darn genius! I’m glad you’re on our side!!

Buttspliced and shrink wrapped that funky connector. Solenoid clicks with pedal and tires spin forward and backward appropriately. However, the seem to spin about half speed in both direction. I checked B- to M- as you had told me to before in post #12. I get pack voltage as soon as the solenoid clicks but with the pedal to the floor and tires spinning as fast as they will go the voltage settles at 25.2. If I read post 12 correctly that should be 0 when pedal is to floor, correct?

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by jellyroll22

JohnnieB is a darn genius! I’m glad you’re on our side!!

Buttspliced and shrink wrapped that funky connector. Solenoid clicks with pedal and tires spin forward and backward appropriately. However, the seem to spin about half speed in both direction. I checked B- to M- as you had told me to before in post #12. I get pack voltage as soon as the solenoid clicks but with the pedal to the floor and tires spinning as fast as they will go the voltage settles at 25.2. If I read post 12 correctly that should be 0 when pedal is to floor, correct?

What’d I tell you? The guy is pretty much invaluable to this site. And he doesn’t get to wear that hat because of his good looks

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jellyroll22

JohnnieB is a darn genius! I’m glad you’re on our side!!

Buttspliced and shrink wrapped that funky connector. Solenoid clicks with pedal and tires spin forward and backward appropriately. However, the seem to spin about half speed in both direction. I checked B- to M- as you had told me to before in post #12. I get pack voltage as soon as the solenoid clicks but with the pedal to the floor and tires spinning as fast as they will go the voltage settles at 25.2. If I read post 12 correctly that should be 0 when pedal is to floor, correct?

First, I'd check the ITS voltages. How to shown in the attachments on my Post#12.

If the voltage on the white wire (Pin-1) doesn't go all they way up to 1.6V +/-0.1V, check the white wire's voltage at the ITS sensor in the pedal box. Might have a bad wire(s) or splice.

If you have good ITS voltages, try measuring the B- to M- voltage while actually driving cart, maybe starting from a standstill going uphill to make the controller to stay at 100% duty cycle. I'm not sure if the voltage will stay at 0V or climb up some when there isn't much of a load on the motor (wheels in the air). I don't think so, but I might be wrong.

Also, measure voltage on Pin-4 (Orange wire) when in forward. When that wire has voltage on it, the controller is put in the half speed mode and that only ought to happen when reverse is selected (MS-4 may be defective and staying on all the time.)

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FWIW: A DMM with a Min/Max function makes checking voltages when driving a lot easier. Especially when looking for two conditions, full battery voltage and 0V (or close to 0V)