95 medalist stop working

[JohnnieB]

Here is where I got my cables: https://www.cartsunlimited.net/battery-cables.html

[2074manx]

Ok after replacing a couple of the cables that looked suspect, the cart worked for a little bit. The cart n9w just died, it won’t move either front or back. I hear the solenoid clicking but n movement. Can anyone tell me what look for? Thank you in advance

[2074manx]

Ok, let me rephrase my question, I replaced some cables that were corroded and my cart was back and running for a few weeks. The suddenly stop working, it won’t move either forward or backwards. Is there a way to test if my controller is fired and or my F/R switch. Once again please excuse my ignorance, I’m new to this.

Thanks in advance

[2074manx]

After looking on the forums I found one of JonnieB’s post on this issue.
I attached JonnieB’s post. I did the test at the controller, don’t know if this is correct, but I had no voltage drop at all. Do I need to check voltage at the ITS? Can the ITS still be bad if it activates the solenoid?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 2074manx

After looking on the forums I found one of JonnieB’s post on this issue.
I attached JonnieB’s post. I did the test at the controller, don’t know if this is correct, but I had no voltage drop at all. Do I need to check voltage at the ITS? Can the ITS still be bad if it activates the solenoid?

Solenoid activation and ITS are two separate circuits electrically, but mechanically, the are both controlled by the accelerator pedal.

If you get full battery pack voltage between B- and M- when the solenoid clicks, but the voltage doesn't decrease to about zero volts as pedal is pressed to floor, then either the throttle (ITS) or the controller is bad.

Attached is how to check the ITS voltages.

If the ITS voltage are correct, the controller is probably bad.

Best replacement is an Alltrax SR48400 (or larger) user programmable controller.

[2074manx]

Thanks, do you think I should upgrade to 48 volt if I need to replace the controller?

[Sideways]

Originally Posted by 2074manx

Thanks, do you think I should upgrade to 48 volt if I need to replace the controller?

That is the recommendation 99% of the users here will give you. Your decision should be based on what you use the cart for as well as the expense. (batteries and charger, cables, controller as well as FnR switch/reversing contactor etc...)

With that being said, I upgraded my 94 Medalist to 48v with the Alltrax controller and other parts Johnnieb suggested. I can say I am extremely happy with the upgrade and was able to do the upgrade myself along with the guidance of Johnnieb and several others here. This site is a gold mine of help and information.

[2074manx]

JonnieB when testing the ITS does it matter which probe( pos or neg) Iuse on the controller and the pins?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 2074manx

Thanks, do you think I should upgrade to 48 volt if I need to replace the controller?

Yes, however you don't have to do it all at once. In other words set it up for 48V, but run it at 36V until you need to replace the batteries.

Going to 48V requires several things to be compatible with 48V, so when possible pick items that will work at both 36V and 48V:

1. Controller - The SR controller works with 36V & 48V
2. Solenoid - A 48V MZJ400 works with 36V & 48V
3. High amp cables work with 36V & 48V, but if you use 8V batteries the posts are on same side so longer battery interconnecting cables are needed
4. 48V battery pack - 48V only
5. 48V battery charger - 48V only

So install items 1, 2 & 3 now and get items 4 & 5 later.


48V ups both speed and torque by 33%.

[2074manx]

Second, if I don’t get any voltage when doing the test, does that mean the ITS is bad?