Cart stutters after Alltrax XCT-48500 install

[Sergio]

Since you are using the OBC to charge you need to move that converter black wire connected to pack negative to the proper location.

There should be an existing 12ga black wire with a Yellow female bullet connected that was attached to Controller B-, that is the proper location for the converter negative so the OBC can account for the energy removed from the batteries by the converter.

You really want to relocate that +16v tap wire as soon as practical.

Even though your meter is not showing a low battery symbol you may want to replace the battery in it as it appears to be giving your erroneous readings.

By the way, what errors are you getting on the Alltrax monitor screen?

[HogKiller]

Originally Posted by Sergio

By the way, what errors are you getting on the Alltrax monitor screen?

This is when the T/R switch is set to run, the key is on, the rear wheels are lifted off the ground, and the accelerator pedal is lightly pressed.

[Sergio]

OK, that shows your FNKS is set to user mode #2 and the dial at the minimum.

Can you post what your user mode #2 screen looks like?

What are your voltage settings for Under Voltage, Over Voltage and Key ON Voltage?

[HogKiller]

Originally Posted by Sergio

OK, that shows your FNKS is set to user mode #2 and the dial at the minimum.

Can you post what your user mode #2 screen looks like?

What are your voltage settings for Under Voltage, Over Voltage and Key ON Voltage?

[Sergio]

The voltage settings are good.

I think I have seen a V3 of that motor field map, yours shows V1.

The Controller thinks the Solenoid is closing, is it?

Did You check if the diode on the solenoid coil was good?

If that diode was backwards or shorted it would prevent the Solenoid from closing which would show as "low battery".

[HogKiller]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The voltage settings are good.

I think I have seen a V3 of that motor field map, yours shows V1.

The Controller thinks the Solenoid is closing, is it?

Did You check if the diode on the solenoid coil was good?

If that diode was backwards or shorted it would prevent the Solenoid from closing which would show as "low battery".

I don't know how to check whether the solenoid is closing. It is certainly not making a clicking sound like I'm used to.

I checked the diodes for continuity before installing them. Don't remember the MM numbers, but they were less than 20. I am definitely a novice with a multimeter though.

[Sergio]

If You are not hearing the Solenoid clicking, the most likely issue is a miss wire on the Solenoid coil.

If Your meter has a "diode" test function, the probes in one direction should give You approximately 0.7v and in the other Open Circuit.

It is hard to follow the cables on the Solenoid big posts, I know it is tight in there but make sure all connections are tight and in the proper order.

When more than one connector goes on the same post You always start with the one that carries the most current and don't use any washers in between them.

A washer, (lock-washer) and nut should go at the top.

Make sure you replace the battery in the meter first to get accurate readings.

[CCNorth]

Originally Posted by HogKiller

I checked the diodes for continuity before installing them. Don't remember the MM numbers, but they were less than 20. I am definitely a novice with a multimeter though.

Hogkiller - You posted on 10/11/20 in "Alltrax XCT Install Pics" and said,
"I had the regen diode backwards. Thank you. What would be the symptoms of installing that backwards? I’m having some problems with my installation and the motor is in limp mode in forward and will not do reverse at all."

Originally Posted by Sergio

Did You check if the diode on the solenoid coil was good?

If that diode was backwards or shorted it would prevent the Solenoid from closing which would show as "low battery".

From your post of 10/11/20 it indicates that your solenoid was functioning at that time.

From what Sergio is saying, your regen diode being backwards on 10/11/20 when you attempted to run the cart may have shorted the diode.

[Sergio]

Let me just clarify I am referring to the small diode on the Solenoid coil.

The Regen diode being backwards, shorted or missing would not really cause any starting issues.

The Regen diode is just an insurance in case the Solenoid contacts were to "Open" without the Controller knowing about it while the cart was in Regenerative brake.

It is good insurance to have in there but in normal use it should never have any current flowing through it.

[HogKiller]

I think that ^^ might be right. The cart runs perfectly now. All I did was remove the small terminal diode per David's instructions, and jack the cart up as NoleFan suggested. Got 50+ volts at the small solenoid terminals with pedal depressed and then took it for a neighborhood test drive with Toolkit and didn't see any errors. Cart seems happy.

Originally Posted by Sergio

Make sure you replace the battery in the meter first to get accurate readings.

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Did you ever get the meter to show ~50+ volts across the pack?

Turns out my multimeter was broken. When I got a hold of David this morning, he had me check the voltage in ascending order (1 batt should show ~8; 2 should show ~16; 3 ~24, etc.) and my MM stopped giving correct readings after testing more than 2 batteries, even though I had it flipped to the right setting. A new battery dropped into the MM didn't change anything. I then borrowed my neighbor's MM and set it exactly the same way, and it read properly. I wasted a ridiculous amount of time with that broken meter.

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP.