48v Club Car DS Burning Resistor Why?

[Gustaza]

Hi,

I’ve got a 2003 club car DS 48v which has recently stopped working. I thought the batteries were flat as cart was on the go for 5-6 hours so I put it on charge. After the charge was complete and I’ve 48v across the batteries I’ve noticed that the 250ohm resistor that is installed across the solenoid is burning up/smoking and I’ve had to disconnect it to prevent catching fire. the cart will no longer operate, so I am wanting to know the cause of the resistor failure and idea what overall fault would be. Is it the OBC or the main Curtis controller 1510 that is the issue?

Any help appreciated
D

[movin-on]

The pre-charge resistor for a 48v cart should be 470 ohms...CC# 1014947...Most of the time when it burns up it is the controller but could also be a short in the motor..Put the right resistor in it and notice if it heats up all the time or only when the pedal is pressed...

[Gustaza]

Hi thanks, sorry I meant 470ohm resistor. Yes it heats up without pedal being pressed. It heats up immediately like 15 seconds after being connected

[movin-on]

Sounds like a controller issue..You have to make sure that there isn't a short in the motor first or it will take out a new controller...Put the cart in tow and disconnect the pack + and - cables...Remove the white A2 cable from the motor use 2 wrenches to remove it and make sure it is not touching anything..Connect the pack + and - cables back up and put the cart in run...If the resistor still gets hot, it is the controller...If not the motor has a short...

[Gustaza]

Hi movin-on,
Can you clarify “disconnect the pack + and - cables” is this the controller cables or the + and. - of the batteries?

Is it possible to check the motor for a short by doing a continuity test across A1&A2 and S1&S2 (which my multimeter should beep each time) and then checking each of the 4 terminals against the frame of the motor which shouldn’t beep if ok or beeps if they’re Ida short?

I earlier linked out A1&A2 and s1&S2 and put 12v across the A and S sides and the motor ran ok? Would this indicate motor ok?

Dec

[movin-on]

If you tested the motor and it ran the controller is your problem...By pack pos and neg it refers to the battery...Pack - runs thru the obc and to the neg terminal of the controller and pack + runs to a big terminal on the solenoid and yes you can test the motor using the continuity tests..

[Gustaza]

Thanks, I’ve ordered a new controller fingers crossed!

[Gustaza]

Hi all, still having trouble!!. I replaced the Curtis controller, the onboard unit and associated wiring loom, the solenoid and new resistor today, but still the buggy will not operate. More alarming is that the resistor within 10s of connecting the +ve side of the batteries started to burn up…..

The only parts left to change on my understanding is the potentiometer under the accelerator and the motor itself I have a new potentiometer which I’m going to change out anyhow so that the buggy has new parts (apart from the motor) but Any ideas why resistor is continuing to burn and buggy still not operate?

The motor when tested as standalone operated by turning the wheels, so I ruled out the motor or short. I can’t detect and cable shorts.

On connecting up the motor (buggy was in tow mode and neutral gear) the buzzer went for 20s or so before going out.

I’m at logger heads at this stage. Any suggestions next step

Thanks
Dec

[ThreeCW]

Have a look at ScottyB's reply on this thread:

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=178388

Also have a look at Fairtax4me's reply to this thread:

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...t=resistor+hot

[Fairtax4me]

Just because the motor runs off of a battery doesn’t mean it’s good. It can still have an internal short which will damage the controller immediately as soon as its hooked up.
You said you tested S1 and S2 terminals on the motor?
Usually a motor labeled with S terminals is a series motor and is not the correct motor for that controller. Are they perhaps F terminals? Is there a model number on the motor somewhere so we can verify it is the correct motor? It should have a speed sensor on the end.