48v Club Car DS Burning Resistor Why?

[RNajarian]

I’m the guy in the first thread linked that ScottyB replied to.

Same problem as Gustaza has, hot preresistor.

When I bought my cart there was a 220 ohm resistor with a blocking diode on it which prevents the resistor from getting hot. Without it any ohm resistor will heat up too hot to the touch. With it in the resistor is cool.

I have not yet isolated my problem but am thinking a bad controller. The second thread linked had a controller with an exploded diode in it, which very well may be my case.

Perhaps the diode on the pre resistor is a Jury Rig by the previous owner to prevent burning out the controller prior to sale.

Gustaza and I likely have the same problem.

[Gustaza]

Hi fairfax

The motor is a GE model no.5BC59JBS6365 part number 102240102. 48v 3.2 horsepower. It has a flat type speed sensor at the end (not the top hat type)

Any advise would be helpful.

Dec

[Fairtax4me]

That should be the correct motor.
Disconnect the pack negative, remove all of the cables from the motor.
Check continuity of the motor posts. A1 - A2, and F1 - F2, you should have continuity.
Any A post to any F post, you should have NO continuity.
Any A or F post to the motor case, should have NO continuity.
If either of these show continuity to the case the motor is damaged and should be repaired or replaced before going any further. Check the studs for looseness or obvious damage like scorching or melting around the insulators.

If the motor passes those tests, then the controller is faulty, or the motor cables have damaged insulation, or the terminal ends are touched together. Make sure the cable ends are not touching each other or any other metal surface when they are installed on the controller or motor.
Never work on or around the motor cables with tools when the battery pack is connected. Any touching of the motor terminals with tools or other metal objects can short the terminals together and damage the controller.

[Gustaza]

Thanks fairtax4me, I will follow your steps to recheck the motor and report back. I just hope the controller has not been damaged by a possible motor fault as it’s a new replacement controller installed this week!

Dec

[Gustaza]

Ok fairtax4me latest update

I Disconnected the pack negative, removed all of the cables from the motor.
Checked continuity of the motor posts. A1 - A2, and F1 - F2, and got continuity as expected.

I checked A post to any F post, and got NO continuity. [as expected]
I checked separately Aand F posts to the motor case, and got NO continuity. [as expected]
I Checked the studs for looseness or obvious damage like scorching or melting around the insulators and nothing.. I removed all the cables that do be grouped within the wiring looms to check that there was No cable shorts.. Nothing….

I tried the test that was mentioned in an earlier tread of disconnecting the pack negative before removing the green cable from the motor (ensuring this cable touched nothing) and then reconnecting the neg pack. upon doing this and the buggy in tow mode the resistor when mad hot and melted the plastic around it. The same happened in run mode.. I did notice today that the battery indicator light would come on for 10s or so and then go out for 10s or so before coming back on etc.. meantime resistor got so hot that I had to disconnect the battery pack negative..

The above from reading treads would suggest I have a controller problem. However What I can’t figure out here is that this is a brand new Curtis controller along with an onboard computer charger, new solenoid (and I believe that the motor is ok from continuity tests and running it directly without the controller) so why am I still getting the issue… the only 2 items of equipment that I haven’t changed is the accelerator potentiometer and the motor, so why is this yoke not running and why is the resistor burning in tow mode and run mode.. is this switch faulty ?

Dec