Still not working!

[Ajluzi]

Tried to update my old thread but can’t find it.

Recap. Cart was working perfect. 1995 medalist with navitas controller, 36v series, plumb quick cobra motor, hd solenoid and f/r switch, large gauge wiring. Kids took it out, went over small bump and it stopped moving. Accessories work fine just no motor rpm.

Navitas app shows no faults. Batteries read 36-38v, solenoid clicks with press of pedal, values change in app except motor rpm. Took new motor off and put old motor on. Same issue. Checked all connections and everything feels tight. Wiggled every wire while pressing go pedal. Nothing. Pulled power for a half hour to reset controller. Nothing. Only thing not working is movement. Kinda at a loss. Thought this would be simple fix and really need cart for Halloween. Fml.

[Volt_Ampere]

are you getting voltage through the solenoid when it clicks? From your description, I would say Solenoid, F/R switch, controller are your possibilities.

[Ajluzi]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

are you getting voltage through the solenoid when it clicks? From your description, I would say Solenoid, F/R switch, controller are your possibilities.

Yes solenoid is showing power when it clicks. I’m seeing 36v at f/r switch but I’m seeing 28v at the motor. Which seems off to me. All power poles on controller show 36v

[Volt_Ampere]

If you are seeing 28V at the motor and it's not turning, that indicates a bad motor - probably brushes at least. It should be cooking along with 28V on it. There are methods in this forum to test the motor. Yours sounds like a series motor. Which terminals are you measuring 28V across?

[Ajluzi]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

If you are seeing 28V at the motor and it's not turning, that indicates a bad motor - probably brushes at least. It should be cooking along with 28V on it. There are methods in this forum to test the motor. Yours sounds like a series motor. Which terminals are you measuring 28V across?

I put the original motor back in to test that since that one was 100% working when I took it out and it too doesn’t work. I’m thinking the f/r switch burnt out. I’m seeing some darker discoloration on one of the terminals and some glue was melted and seeped out from the wires terminal. One connection on the switch is also visibly darker than all the others and the boot appears to have a slight bend in it.

[OhDannyBoy]

sounds like you found your culprit. bump may have caused something to come loose and create resistance.

[Ajluzi]

Originally Posted by OhDannyBoy

sounds like you found your culprit. bump may have caused something to come loose and create resistance.

To the switch out and took it apart. Significant discoloration on 2 of the poles (probably the forward and reverse power poles) and one pole appears to be sunk in and cracked from heat. Probably wasn’t right enough and created resistance which causes heat and the bumped just put the nail in the coffin. Ordered a new one and will get it Thursday. Fingers crossed that’s all it is and we will back up a running and I can start to plan my lithium swap.

[Ajluzi]

Well new forward reverse switch is in and this **** thing still is working. I feel like I’ve gone through everything and nothing makes sense. No fault codes from controller. Solenoid seems to be functioning properly. Voltages all look good. I’m starting to have serious doubts that all these kids did was go over a “small bump”. Because literally every part is new on this cart it has worked perfectly for months. I’m going to get the point where I’m going to tear it all apart and rebuild it because I’m at a loss. Either that or find a golf cart garage if that exists and trailer it there to get fixed. Unfortunately the entire reason I built this cart was to have it for Halloween and now that’s clearly not going to happen.

[Ajluzi]

So after two weeks of digging. Checking all connections, tearing stuff apart, replacing a $150 forward reverse switch, having a local service center come check it out for $75. The problem has been found and fixed. It was a **** software update that navitas pushed that was broken. They pushed a good one and it works fine. Seriously it’s a 1995 ezgo not a Tesla. I did not expect these things to be an issue. But at least she’s back up and running and working great. Now I have a new switch and met a really cold dude that does mobile repairs and installs for these should I need it in the future.

[BigYoung]

Sounds like you found a real cart tech