F2 post on starter shows ground not battery...is this normal?

[TXGWAGON]

I have a 2001 Club Car gas with a stock 290 engine. I'm having an issue with the F2 post on my starter, the post on starter with the large white wire from the starter solenoid.

I disconnected the white wire from the starter F2 post and when I check continuity using a multimeter it tones out to ground. Should this post show ground?

[CP241]

Let me make sure I’m understanding you correctly… you disconnect the white wire for
F2 on the starter and are measuring for continuity to ground on the post to ground? If so then I’m guessing you’re seeing a few ohms to ground and you’re measuring resistance to ground through the coils/windings in the starter motor itself, which would be normal and expected.

What kind of issues are you having?

[TXGWAGON]

I went down a rabbit hole.

My journey started with replacing the battery cable to the starter solenoid. Upon completing that the engine would no longer turn over when pressing on the gas pedal. So then I started trouble shooting the electrical system because the starter was not turning over. I can run a jumper from the battery to the F2 post on the starter and it will turn over. But the starter will not turn over when I press on the gas. I swapped the ignition at the same time, because the previous owner had a lot of extra wiring there that wasn't needed. He had it wired for constant power with no key needed. I have everything back together according to the wiring diagram, but the starter will not turn over. I removed the starter solenoid and it will switch when grounded and power is applied. I get continuity across the large posts. At this point I'm about to build a new wiring harness from scratch, replace the
micro switches and the brushes in the starter. If that doesn't work I'm going to swap the voltage regulator. If that doesn't work I'm going to sell it and buy a new golf cart.

[CP241]

First, the voltage regulator has nothing to do with the starting circuit.

Start by checking for voltage and ground on the solenoid small terminals. With the key on, shifter in gear, and pedal depressed, you should have 12v on one of the small terminals and ground on the other.

Step 1 we need to determine which one is not present.

[Fairtax4me]

Dunno which diagram you're using but start with this one and make sure your New wiring matches this.


The solenoid works, and the starter works. So you have a small wiring issue somewhere which should not be that hard to track down. Shot-gunning parts at it will only lead to frustration and an empty wallet.


The Blue wire at the solenoid small post should get 12v when the key is turned on.
Orange wire goes to the limit switch on the throttle cam and then to the switch on the back of the FnR lever. This circuit is the ground side for the solenoid coil and both switches have to activate in order for the solenoid to engage. Make sure the wiring is correct at both switches.
The yellow knob on the back of the FnR lever is the maintenance knob. That's there to allow the engine to run with the FnR in neutral when doing maintenance/repairs/etc. When in the Maintenance position there will be one lobe of the knob pointing straight up with the FnR in N. If the knob is in the maintenance position the engine will only start if the lever is in Neutral position. Pull it out and spin it 180 degrees and let it click back into place to go back to the Run position. The two other lobes will be on top pointing away at 60° angles, and will only activate the switches when the lever is in F or R.

[TXGWAGON]

This is the wiring diagram I am using. At this point I have memorized it. I enjoy swapping the parts out. This is my first golf cart so it gives me a chance to familiarize myself with the tech and how it operates.

[Leon willis]

Wait are they still using the hatity starter generator in 92 wow if I remember correctly the little green wire dose nothing for starting it’s the F2 wire that does a lot for starting and bad ground can cause not to work same with pedal switch

[TXGWAGON]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Dunno which diagram you're using but start with this one and make sure your New wiring matches this.


The solenoid works, and the starter works. So you have a small wiring issue somewhere which should not be that hard to track down. Shot-gunning parts at it will only lead to frustration and an empty wallet.


The Blue wire at the solenoid small post should get 12v when the key is turned on.
Orange wire goes to the limit switch on the throttle cam and then to the switch on the back of the FnR lever. This circuit is the ground side for the solenoid coil and both switches have to activate in order for the solenoid to engage. Make sure the wiring is correct at both switches.
The yellow knob on the back of the FnR lever is the maintenance knob. That's there to allow the engine to run with the FnR in neutral when doing maintenance/repairs/etc. When in the Maintenance position there will be one lobe of the knob pointing straight up with the FnR in N. If the knob is in the maintenance position the engine will only start if the lever is in Neutral position. Pull it out and spin it 180 degrees and let it click back into place to go back to the Run position. The two other lobes will be on top pointing away at 60° angles, and will only activate the switches when the lever is in F or R.

The solenoid has 4 posts. 2 large posts and 2 small posts. Both of the small posts have 12v running to them. If I read your message correctly then the small post with the blue wire should have 12v and the small post with the orange wire should show ground. Correct?

[TXGWAGON]

Eureka! I think I may have figured it out. So I think I have a bad limit switch. Tracing ground from the white wire at the ignition I followed it to the first Limit Switch and found ground there on the input and on the output side sending it to the second Limit Switch following the Green wire. That limit switch is bad. It does not have ground on the output side when the switch is triggered. So the orange wire flowing to the Starter does not have ground available. I wired a hot lead to the small + post on the solenoid and a ground to the small - post and the Solenoid activated turning the motor over. BOOM!

[CP241]

Originally Posted by TXGWAGON

Eureka! I think I may have figured it out. So I think I have a bad limit switch. Tracing ground from the white wire at the ignition I followed it to the first Limit Switch and found ground there on the input and on the output side sending it to the second Limit Switch following the Green wire. That limit switch is bad. It does not have ground on the output side when the switch is triggered. So the orange wire flowing to the Starter does not have ground available. I wired a hot lead to the small + post on the solenoid and a ground to the small - post and the Solenoid activated turning the motor over. BOOM!

There you go kinda where I was heading with my response above, see if power or ground is missing. Both feed through the microswitches and key switch. Once you identify which is missing you can chase down that part of the circuit.

If it is a 3 terminal switch, make sure the normally open and normally closed wires are correct and not reversed. I’ve bought several of these carts people monkeyed with the wiring at the switches or even replaced the switches and mixed up the wires. The diagram should show the terminals if you look closely.

Regardless the limit switches are cheap. Can buy all 4 of them for like 15 bucks. I’ve used the cheap Amazon ones as well as quality omron switches and didn’t notice any difference. There’s little to no current passing through them (couple hundred mA) so the cheaper ones on Amazon seem to work just fine.