Got a new 84 EZGO Today

[mr2nr]

Hey everyone just got a new 1984 EZGO and have been reading here as it is the site that has given me the most info on this old bird. I am trying to get the basics done. The cart was given to me and I have no key. Can I just short the key wires to eliminate the key? I am not getting any movement at all and I have pulled the schematic from the site and I will get a multimeter on it next Tuesday when I have time. I am thinking about going HEI, but just want to get it running for now. It has been ran recently, but the wires are falling apart in my hands. Thanks for any help at all.

Matt

[eadavis]

Congratulations on the new cart... Yes you can just jumper out the key switch.

[Dave Box]

Congratulations on the cart and welcome to BGW.
Yes you can short out the key switch. You can also get a generic auto ignition switch from Autozone et.al. so there is no need to buy the (expensive) OEM part.
The wiring on the 80's series is an issue. I would recommend that you remove each connector in turn and make sure that there is no corrosion in there. Also give each wire a gentle tug as there is a tendency for the wire to snap at the crimp and be held in by the rubber sleeve. This causes nasty intermittent connection problems and the ultimate embarrassment of pushing the cart home. One of the most common issues is corrosion on the ground point. It will pay you to remove the nut and sand the ground point to bare metal, sand the connectors are bolt it up tight. Also make sure that there is a ground strap between the ground point and the engine. If this is missing the engine will try to find it's own ground and it will fail shortly after it sets fire to your choke cable.
If your ignitor and coil are working (that is to say, if you have a spark) I would hold off on the HEI plan, but that is just my opinion. On the subject of sparks, if you don't have one a simple to fix fault is the plug lead. It seems to get a little nasty inside the coil so you can unscrew the cable from the coil and squirt a shot of WD40 in the coil. Cut the last 1/2 inch off the plug lead to find fresh conductor and screw it back in.
Once you get the engine running make sure that there is a spring between the end of the throttle cable and the butterfly lever. If you still have the oil pump you may consider removing it and premixing, but I am jumping ahead, you probably want to hear it run first.
Enjoy the cart.
Dave

[doozerann]

Hey Matt, Welcome to BGW. I have a 85 with no key and it turns on with a screwdriver lol

[mr2nr]

Hey thanks guys. BTW does anybody know where I can find a service manual for this in .pdf? I have my car, my ATV, my SeaDoo and everything else but wouldn't you know the "Hybrid" is the only one I can't find free and I hate to spend 60$ on one now that the intererweb has been invented lol. I could use 84-89 if there is very little differences :). I am all ready building up my surplus of aircraft grade colored wire, Aluminum, Lexan, and Corrosion resistant hardware.

I understand the importance of a good build as I am an A&P (aircraft mechanic).

I will post plenty of pics for you guys to enjoy also from start to finish I can't say it will be a fast build but a informative one none the least.

Dave- I looked at my plug wire and of course it is dangling under the cart from the plug. I found the coil and it looks nice and nasty as well. The throttle cable is horrendous frayed and all and no it does not have the spring :) and there is another cable right under the throttle that leads to the diversity clutch that isn't even hooked up. The guy that had it said he just bandaged it up and it died last week and he didn't want to fool with any more :). But the good thing is it hasn't sat like this for a year. The direction selector is caked with dirt. Is there a price list of the highest dollar elect. components so I can see if it's even worth it if the fix up exceeds my budget. Was really wanting an electric version and would rather put money into a modern conversion if it will be more than 500$ to get it going as is. Thanks again and I now have a full summer project lol.

[mr2nr]

Well had some time and nice weather to break into her and take some pics. I got the electric motor to spin by shorting out the solenoid and hitting the pedal but of course she didn't fire. So now I have one good Starter/GEN :). The 89 wiring diagram I'm using seems to be close but I cannot find the "pulser coil". I think I found the ignitor and the Voltage Regulator as they look like they have the right colored wires going to them.

Here she is in all her filthy glory






Now on to more questions


Should the starter motor turn over even if there is a problem with the ignition circuit?

It appears the oil injection has been removed do my pics confirm this?

Ill post the rest of my pics later as it looks like the internet is slow tonight.



Thanks for any advice and comments.

[racin161]

Your right the oil injection has been removed.Can see by the pic cable is missing and there is a screw in the intake manifold which is correct.Drain old fuel to be safe and mix new at 1oz per gallon 1:28 to 1.Get you a new plug, filter,and check all connections. I would remove the grounding wires from the tab and clean them individually along with the tab and re install.I had an issue with my f/r switch at first it wouldn't crank and to find out all I did was spray electrical cleaner into it on both sides and blew it out with compressed air while moving it in both directions.Hope this helps and let us know there are a lot of great guys on here and there are no stupid questions.

[racin161]

Sorry got ahead of the question only two things before the solenoid the ignition switch check for 12v in and out you may have and inline fuse then the pedal micro switch which goes to the solenoid. In short if 12v is on both sides of the key switch when in the on position leave it on depress the pedal and conform you have 12v at the solenoid.If no power bad micro switch or loose or broken wire.

[mr2nr]

Well after many hours (maybe 3) lol....SHES ALIVE!!! racin161 started me at a good place as the starter switch wire that went into the solenoid was not getting 12V at the solenoid so playing with it it started to spin up. Replaced the I bolt on the solenoid and walla .10 into the project and we are rolling. Heck I even got fire amazingly from what the plug wire looks like. Will prob see if I can find a terminal that will fit into the factory coil any ideas there? Should I just get a new plug wire? The F/R switch doesn't always want too engage in the reverse position so will also be doing the electric contact cleaner trick as well. Thanks so much for all the help guys. One very happy camper. Now to go clean her up and prep for paint and do some wire cleanup along with a new ground strap that thing looks horrendous.

[racin161]

Great JobThats what all of us likes to hear and why were here to help.Any info you find be sure to share with others.