79 Ezgo needs Flywheel puller (Where do I find one??)

[Plumbergs]

Hmm.. Yours being a 1979 model is apparenty a different animal than the 1980+ models. Either way, the puller should work for you using the same method. Its just a matter of finding the right size bolts for your flywheel. I wish I could tell you, but I have no idea if its not M6. Maybe someone else who has worked on a 76-79 model will chime in.

[hogie1418@yahoo.com]

Well I went and picked up the m5 screws and they fit. The only problem is the screws fit in at an angle. Thus the puller will not fit over them. I have no clue what to do now. Here is some pics of what were working with. Maybe this will help.

2011-10-07 12.28.30.jpg
2011-10-07 12.28.45.jpg

[hogie1418@yahoo.com]

The manual for the cart also says that we need to use a "Special puller Bolt" to remove the flywheel. Just some more info. Hopefully someone has some info on these older carts. Thanks

[Plumbergs]

Wow, thats completely different than mine.

hogie,
Are those threads inside the flywheel where the crank key notch is? If so, you may be able to remove it by using the same method as pulling the clutch with a piece of round and a 3/4" hardened bolt (not sure what size yours takes).

If this turns out to be the case, and you can't get a refund for the steering wheel puller I will personally refund your money since I gave you the wrong advice. Let me know how it turns out.

[Plumbergs]

This is the method used for pulling the clutch:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ezgo-...go-clutch.html

You basically just drop in a 3" x 5/8" steel rod, and then thread in a 3/4" hardened bolt by 2" long and it pushes it off the shaft. I'm not sure if you'd need the same size rod and bolt for your flywheel though.

[hogie1418@yahoo.com]

Plumberg we can get a refund no problem. We made sure of it before we bought it. Honestly I should have posted pictures before I started asking questions. That was my fault. And yes there are threads where the crank key notch is. I think that is why I thought we would have to screw in the steering wheel puller lol. I havent had a chance to check out the clutch removal link yet but I have been wondering for awhile now if the clutch puller would serve as both a clutch and flywheel puller. Im still not sure but by simply talking about this I feel like were getting somewhere at least. Thanks again for the help Plumberg.

[Dave Box]

Unfortunately you need EZGO part A-14709-G1 to get that flywheel off. That said I would be tempted to wind the M5 screw in so you estimate the angle and then remove the screw and bend it so it is approximately vertical. Now a standard puller might work.

Dave

[Universal_Mechanic]

Looks like I'm a month late running across this thread, hopefully the OP still comes around.

Worked on my first 79 just yesterday at the shop, and could not for the life of me find the proper thread pitch bolt to use as a puller, pretty sure its metric, as coarse and fine thread standard bolts of the proper diameter don't work. And we didn't have any metric bolts that big. So....

I used a 2 jaw puller, with each jaw in those little openings next to the center hub. I also took a 1.5" 1/4-20 bolt and put 3 nuts on it and ground off the hex points off the nuts so it would fit inside the puller threads. This was for 2 reasons, one being so I didn't push on the hole that the bolt goes into, but most importantly, so the puller tip had something to push against.


Long story short, after 45 minutes of goofing around with other methods, the 2 jaw puller popped that baby right off in a matter of 5 minutes. Now I have to find out what other than points and coil, will cause no spark.... Pretty sure mine here has to be all rewired, its a mess....

Good luck with yours!

[racin161]

Well start from the basics with the flywheel off. Simple wiring is voltage at the + side of the coil and I would say it should be 9V because of a points system. Either an inline resister or a internal one in the coil. With that said check for voltage at the points or ohm the wire from the - side of the coil to the points if that is good and points are grounded it should have fire only other problem could be the condenser as its a capacitor and if its bad its not building or holding the voltage needed to fire the plug. In short a quick check would be run a known 12V wire to the + side of the coil with point still in place open and close the points with a screw driver with a plug in the plug wire and you should see it fire. Make sure the points are clean file or sand them you'll see the points arc. Replace the points-condenser-plug wire-plug with new.It will run with 12V at the coil but it will shorten the life of the points and burn them if the key is let on for a period of time in the closed position. Hope this helps let us know.

[Universal_Mechanic]

Originally Posted by racin161

Well start from the basics with the flywheel off. Simple wiring is voltage at the + side of the coil and I would say it should be 9V because of a points system. Either an inline resister or a internal one in the coil. With that said check for voltage at the points or ohm the wire from the - side of the coil to the points if that is good and points are grounded it should have fire only other problem could be the condenser as its a capacitor and if its bad its not building or holding the voltage needed to fire the plug. In short a quick check would be run a known 12V wire to the + side of the coil with point still in place open and close the points with a screw driver with a plug in the plug wire and you should see it fire. Make sure the points are clean file or sand them you'll see the points arc. Replace the points-condenser-plug wire-plug with new.It will run with 12V at the coil but it will shorten the life of the points and burn them if the key is let on for a period of time in the closed position. Hope this helps let us know.

Thanks. I just replaced the points and condensor, and fixed up the wiring. All is well with the ignition system now. Cleaned out the pump and carb (needed it BAD, 10 year old gas....hate that stuff, STINKS!....). Looks like I might need to reseal and rering this engine, seems to be running lean... ****, now I have to figure out how to remove the starter/gen armature from the crankshaft....that should be fun. Gotta do some diagnostics on it first (next weekend), but ill bet any money the crank seals are leaking, especially since the thing is 32 years old....