98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth

lrmike64 · 07-27-2019, 08:56 PM

New to BGW and have spent the last 2 hours searching for suggestions but I think I need to just raise my hand and ask! I have a 98 CC DS, serial# A9840-702314 that will not move.
Background: I had a 85 DS 36v resistor cart with a custom body that the battery trays finally rotted beyond what I wanted to deal with so I obtained this 98 with no body from a friend who had used it in the past. Overall good shape, 99% of all stuff there (had to buy a FNR switch and Tow/Run switch). Bad news - and feel free to laugh - when it was sitting in my backyard the squirrels ate a bunch of the wiring.
Present day: Body is swapped over, squirrel damage repaired, a full new set of Trojan batteries (6 x 8V), new battery cables. When I try to run the cart (rear end on jack stands) I get nothing. No click, no hum, nothing. I checked stack voltage at 50.6V. Here's the weird part, I checked voltage at the key switch and it is only 30V and that drops to 0V when I hit the go pedal.
After all the reading I have done on here I am not even sure which controller I have anymore! I think it's a Powerdrive Plus because it has an FNR switch and not the lever. It has 2 wires that the squirrels chewed off and stole the connector for that match colors for a tow/run switch so I wired in a generic SPST heavy toggle for the tow/run as I did not have one.
Sorry for the long first post but I need a little guidance, please!

Mooncarter · 07-27-2019, 09:34 PM

Can you tell us what throttle system you have?

Pretty sure that cart has a green wire coming from the hot side of the solenoid. Should be 48v to key switch. Check voltage at hot side of solenoid and make sure it is pack voltage. If not, you are either not hooked to pack positive or have a bad connection going to solenoid. If all checks OK you have poor connection to key switch.

Not sure what you mean by "Powerdrive controller."

to BGW from up the James!

lrmike64 · 07-27-2019, 09:47 PM

It has a V-glide throttle (big black pie wedge under driver). The connector for this had to be cut out and hardwired thanks to the squirrels. Green wire on which solenoid? Driver or passenger side?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Mooncarter · 07-27-2019, 09:49 PM

Look in the Club Car "stickies" and find the wiring diagram for your cart. That way we can be on the same page in the same book.

nickdalzell1 · 07-27-2019, 09:52 PM

a low and disappearing voltage is a voltage leak--bad wire somewhere. If you know which terminal your key switch gets the +30V at you can try using a jumper wire and jump that connection to the main battery positive post and see if you get any progress.

Keep in mind there is also an OBC--On Board Computer that can lock the system out if it's bad or not satisfied or even 'locked up'. Your car has a battery warning light on the dash--normally when you flip the switch from TOW to RUN and key ON, hit the gas, sometimes it takes a few tries, the light comes on a few seconds, solenoids click and it goes out. This OBC also controls the charger--if your charger isn't coming on and batteries and wiring to charge port are fine, this might cause a lockout condition as well. Somewhere on the stickies are some ways to bypass the OBC.

PowerDrive is the name of the charger. What you have is either a Regen II (has a rocker instead of a shift lever, and NO programming cap that usually hangs below the switch) or an early IQ, which has the little round programming cover hanging below the FNR.

Fairtax4me · 07-27-2019, 09:57 PM

If you have two solenoids you have a regen 2 cart. The tow run switch provides power for the key switch. There is a splice of several wires together in the harness which breaks out power to a half dozen or so places when the Tow run is switched to Run. Check your voltage reaching the tow run switch and see if you have the same issue there. That would indicate a supply problem to the tow run sw. If voltage is OK there, the splice connection may be the issue.

nickdalzell1 · 07-27-2019, 09:59 PM

The regen ONE has two solenoids, one with a resistor across it, visible from battery tray. the regen II has only one solenoid, an Allbright mounted behind the inspection cover.

Mooncarter · 07-27-2019, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

If you have two solenoids you have a regen 2 cart. The tow run switch provides power for the key switch. There is a splice of several wires together in the harness which breaks out power to a half dozen or so places when the Tow run is switched to Run. Check your voltage reaching the tow run switch and see if you have the same issue there. That would indicate a supply problem to the tow run sw. If voltage is OK there, the splice connection may be the issue.

Yep. I was looking at the wrong diagram.

lrmike64 · 07-27-2019, 10:15 PM

Trying to do this with Tapatalk app and it won't let me insert a pic, but by the descriptions I have a regen 2. I will check at the tow run switch tomorrow, that was a repair area. I did all the repairs with solder and heat shrink so will look for the other splice. My diagram shows the green wire changing color 2x and after the tow/run switch is red/white. The negative cable does not run through the OBC right now, the battery end was bad and I need to make up a new one so have a cable run around it. Will that cause an issue once I find my voltage loss?
Thanks for all the great response!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Mooncarter · 07-27-2019, 10:18 PM

Yes. It needs to run through it. Is the charger working?

07-27-2019, 08:56 PM	#1
lrmike64 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Hampton Roads, VA Posts: 8	98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth New to BGW and have spent the last 2 hours searching for suggestions but I think I need to just raise my hand and ask! I have a 98 CC DS, serial# A9840-702314 that will not move. Background: I had a 85 DS 36v resistor cart with a custom body that the battery trays finally rotted beyond what I wanted to deal with so I obtained this 98 with no body from a friend who had used it in the past. Overall good shape, 99% of all stuff there (had to buy a FNR switch and Tow/Run switch). Bad news - and feel free to laugh - when it was sitting in my backyard the squirrels ate a bunch of the wiring. Present day: Body is swapped over, squirrel damage repaired, a full new set of Trojan batteries (6 x 8V), new battery cables. When I try to run the cart (rear end on jack stands) I get nothing. No click, no hum, nothing. I checked stack voltage at 50.6V. Here's the weird part, I checked voltage at the key switch and it is only 30V and that drops to 0V when I hit the go pedal. After all the reading I have done on here I am not even sure which controller I have anymore! I think it's a Powerdrive Plus because it has an FNR switch and not the lever. It has 2 wires that the squirrels chewed off and stole the connector for that match colors for a tow/run switch so I wired in a generic SPST heavy toggle for the tow/run as I did not have one. Sorry for the long first post but I need a little guidance, please!

07-27-2019, 09:34 PM	#2
Mooncarter Gone Insane Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Richmond, VA Posts: 14,214	Re: 98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth Can you tell us what throttle system you have? Pretty sure that cart has a green wire coming from the hot side of the solenoid. Should be 48v to key switch. Check voltage at hot side of solenoid and make sure it is pack voltage. If not, you are either not hooked to pack positive or have a bad connection going to solenoid. If all checks OK you have poor connection to key switch. Not sure what you mean by "Powerdrive controller." to BGW from up the James!

07-27-2019, 09:47 PM	#3
lrmike64 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Hampton Roads, VA Posts: 8	Re: 98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth It has a V-glide throttle (big black pie wedge under driver). The connector for this had to be cut out and hardwired thanks to the squirrels. Green wire on which solenoid? Driver or passenger side? Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

07-27-2019, 09:49 PM	#4
Mooncarter Gone Insane Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Richmond, VA Posts: 14,214	Re: 98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth Look in the Club Car "stickies" and find the wiring diagram for your cart. That way we can be on the same page in the same book.

07-27-2019, 09:52 PM	#5
nickdalzell1 Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 1,279	Re: 98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth a low and disappearing voltage is a voltage leak--bad wire somewhere. If you know which terminal your key switch gets the +30V at you can try using a jumper wire and jump that connection to the main battery positive post and see if you get any progress. Keep in mind there is also an OBC--On Board Computer that can lock the system out if it's bad or not satisfied or even 'locked up'. Your car has a battery warning light on the dash--normally when you flip the switch from TOW to RUN and key ON, hit the gas, sometimes it takes a few tries, the light comes on a few seconds, solenoids click and it goes out. This OBC also controls the charger--if your charger isn't coming on and batteries and wiring to charge port are fine, this might cause a lockout condition as well. Somewhere on the stickies are some ways to bypass the OBC. PowerDrive is the name of the charger. What you have is either a Regen II (has a rocker instead of a shift lever, and NO programming cap that usually hangs below the switch) or an early IQ, which has the little round programming cover hanging below the FNR.

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07-27-2019, 09:57 PM	#6
Fairtax4me Bonafide Nincompoop Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Charlottesburg Va Posts: 8,987	Re: 98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth If you have two solenoids you have a regen 2 cart. The tow run switch provides power for the key switch. There is a splice of several wires together in the harness which breaks out power to a half dozen or so places when the Tow run is switched to Run. Check your voltage reaching the tow run switch and see if you have the same issue there. That would indicate a supply problem to the tow run sw. If voltage is OK there, the splice connection may be the issue.

07-27-2019, 09:59 PM	#7
nickdalzell1 Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 1,279	Re: 98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth The regen ONE has two solenoids, one with a resistor across it, visible from battery tray. the regen II has only one solenoid, an Allbright mounted behind the inspection cover.

07-27-2019, 10:15 PM	#9
lrmike64 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Hampton Roads, VA Posts: 8	Re: 98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth Trying to do this with Tapatalk app and it won't let me insert a pic, but by the descriptions I have a regen 2. I will check at the tow run switch tomorrow, that was a repair area. I did all the repairs with solder and heat shrink so will look for the other splice. My diagram shows the green wire changing color 2x and after the tow/run switch is red/white. The negative cable does not run through the OBC right now, the battery end was bad and I need to make up a new one so have a cable run around it. Will that cause an issue once I find my voltage loss? Thanks for all the great response! Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

07-27-2019, 10:18 PM	#10
Mooncarter Gone Insane Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Richmond, VA Posts: 14,214	Re: 98 DS Will not move and disappearing voltage at key swicth Yes. It needs to run through it. Is the charger working?

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