G2 Secondary-Clutch settings

[pachanga90]

I was wondering if anyone has any info on what pin-locations do what when setting the spring on a G2-Rear?I'm still playing with the one on my Big-Block,and I'm curious as to what holes 1-4 in the hub do in different combos' with the 3-slots on the sheave.Thanks!

[smallblock450sl]

Originally Posted by pachanga90

I was wondering if anyone has any info on what pin-locations do what when setting the spring on a G2-Rear?I'm still playing with the one on my Big-Block,and I'm curious as to what holes 1-4 in the hub do in different combos' with the 3-slots on the sheave.Thanks!

G2 thru G14 stock is B-4, G16 thru G22 is B-3, most likley do to the differant primay clutch's. Tom @CPP gave me some setting racing big block guy's are running (for Wilson, I'll see tommarow if I saved the info). Since you have all the torque, I'd think you would want a softer preload for top end.

[pachanga90]

Cool!Thanks

[sho305]

Yes and no. I had problems getting the carb to work well on the clone I put in. I just worked on it and wound the spring harder to get more rpm at low throttle. It did help now it does not lug as much when you punch it and it gets into action faster. It was fine if you hammered it from a stop or higher speed, but from a lower speed it would miss. This raised the lower speed rpm some and helped. I plan to make an intake so I can change the carb out.

Winding the 'preload' harder just raises rpm at low to mid throttle, it does not change full throttle shift rpm. It can make it snappy-er and help cooling, make more noise, take more gas. The engine will not shift out at lower throttle and go to low rpm when you drive slower, it will stay at higher rpm all the time until you stop.

Of course how much you wind it will dictate how high the rpm goes. I wound mine really hard once just to see, it ran at full rpm all the time like I had it on the floor. Even at 1/4 throttle it was revving way up lol. It had great throttle response.

Anyway the different holes simply allow you to vary the degrees of preload you get. If you take it off and look at the holes you will see they are in different spots. The ramp side the hole is even with the point of the ramp, another is behind the point the last is in front of the point....that gives 3 settings right there. The hub has 4 holes 2 on each side. The combo of holes lets you set it all the way around. When you take the clutch off mark across the sheaves, leave the nut on if you can. Then take it off the ramps and unwind it to see how much twist is on it (preload). Go say 2 holes up to see a difference. The next hole on mine would move it say 2" at the outside of the sheave iirc. Stock is roughly one ramp worth, or 120 degrees, or 1/3 turn total.

I set this one up to almost a ramp and a half I had to turn it. The more you do the harder it is to hold and get that key in and nut on lol. BTW once you have the sheave off it comes off easy, just leave the nut a couple turns out and find a long rod of maybe 3/4 steel. Place it across the trans case and between the ramps at inside of the inner sheave, hit it with a 3lb it will pop right off so you can try some different settings. If the sheave has been on there a long time use a puller I would recommend, it may come off hard the first time.

[pachanga90]

Sho,I've had it off so much,the tools jump out of my box and line up on the floor!!!I've tried winding the Secondary as much a a full turn,even used the Torque-Spring from my wifes' cart.The Primary needs a stiffer spring,to get it to engage a little higher and harder.I'kk keep trying settings on the Secondary.My choice of power is a 18hp Opposed Briggs,its' a Freight-Train of power,just revs out too easily(4500 is about the limit.).Taller tires next.Thanks for the help.

[sho305]

I prefer a little more than stock preload, I don't like it to rev a lot yet stock is a little doggy to respond at times. I have my stock cart set stock, it has a lot of low end power anyway, but the clone needs some rpm to handle full throttle and make the power. Of course it has a stock yami clutch that is not the best out of the hole.

The secondary springs and all is a bandaid, set it like you want it to run at part throttle and concentrate on the primary to get your holeshot....that is key. Longer spring = higher engagement, stiffer spring = higher shift point, larger weights = lower shift point. If you have a different clutch without the large central spring then not sure what you can do with it.

You can run a cut secondary, or have yours cut to push the belt out the top a little. They do help I have one on the clone I did. It gives a lower gear so it spins up faster, has more power at very low speeds or from a stop or towing. This clone just spins like crazy if you try to tow something and stomp it. If the front tires get traction I can hold the brake a second to get some rpm and do a donut from a dead stop. Funny thing with stock clutches on this (G9 cart) is the more load the harder it takes off, with two guys on it revs in a couple seconds from a dead stop to full rpm and off you go.

[pachanga90]

I pulled the washer out between the sheaves to close it up some,I want to get a better clutch this winter,are there any such as quads,that will swap?I know I can go thru Plowmans for a custom-unit.I went back out tonite,reset it to B-1,its a straight-shot,no preload.I'll see what happens tomorrow-nite.

[sho305]

If you set it too loose it can slip the belt or the belt can slip inside it and make it bog. It should be turned at least one ramp or nearly so. Loose it will shift out to low rpm when you let off the gas, as much as it can.

I took that washer out long ago but it makes little difference, a cut sheave really helps at less than 5mph or so.

Find out what clutch you have. If they make a performance spring for your primary and you don't want to mess with it, it is likely it will help to toss one in. You just can't do much for holeshot with a secondary because that is not what it does. It does nearly nothing until you get moving at 5mph or more when it can react to something. Your primary does all the engaging. Some say that tech4 clutch works well, whatever you get if you can tune it you should be good. Most sled/quad clutches are no good because they are not made to engage as slow as lawn engines need....unless you have a modified engine that gets a lot more rpm than normal. Most of those clutches you can't even get weights/springs that will engage that low of rpm. Get a clutch that is as large a diameter or better iirc close to 8". A comet 94 will work but make sure you can get parts, they say they can now. I think CPP has both.

[pachanga90]

Primary is a stock Ez-Go TXT 4-cycle clutch.I tried shims,and also some longer springs I had here,no change.I'm thinking about just ordering the Torque-Spring for that clutch.I know all the spring-tricks for the Primary,I just wasn't sure about setting the Secondary.I'm gonna start with it loose,then go up 1 step each time till I get it somewhere decent.I'd like to find a little bigger-diameter Secondary to cut the revs down a bit at top-end.I'm either upping the tire-size or dropping gearing this winter.With 8:1 It should pass 40mph.!I've got my Spring-Reset time down to about 5-min.!

[pachanga90]

Set it to B-3 tonite,seems decent,I'm gonna play somemore,now that I have a good baseline to work from.Thanks for the info guys!