PowerDrive charger charges but meter doesn't move

my bad did not see model #
it is in the pdf file (2005 update) section 3

[jimdandy745]

Okay, here are the results of today's charge.

I am using a Fluke 75 DMM for these readings. All readings
across total batteries.
RIGHT side (RED) = positive
LEFT side (BLACK) = negative

2:40pm - Check voltage before connecting charger = 50.0
2:43pm - Plug in charger to AC and connect to Club Car charger port.
2:45pm - 52.4
3:15pm - 54.4
3:45pm - 56.1 - needle on cart into red zone
4:15pm - - Ooops - missed one reading
4:45pm - 57.1
5:15pm - 57.5 - needle in cart now pegged!
5:45pm - 58.2
6:15pm - 59.0
6:45pm - 59.4
7:15pm - 59.8
7:45pm - 60.3
8:00pm - 60.5 - disconnected charger
8:02pm - 51.8 - needle on cart drops to just over half way in white zone

Does any of this help?

YES .. it tells me your cart was charged at 80% at start of your test
and you need to let batteries rest 12hrs for final reading

needle on cart into red zone
needle on cart drops to just over half way in white zone

your analog meter is not a good .... if you want accuracy get a digital volt meter

I tried a friend's charger and it works normally, so it appears to be in my charger and not in the cart.

i would replace it with the good one and retest ... see where it shuts off

i recommend you get a DPI charger and not worry anymore

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/48v_Battery_Charger.html

[jimdandy745]

So, after the required 12 hour rest, the batteries test out at 50.8vdc.

I realized late last night that my Fluke 75 DMM also has a current test on it. According to the specs, it can read up to 10 amps continuous and up to 20 amps at less than 30 sec intervals.

This morning, I disconnected the internal ammeter on the charger and connected my Fluke across the same connections. I didn't have a clamp-on connector to use, but for DC current I think in-line is better anyway.

Connected the charger to AC.
Connected the charger to the charger port on the Club Car.
Zero reading on the Fluke meter initially.
After about 3 seconds the relay kicked in and the meter read 8.7 for about 5 seconds until the relay then dropped out as it normally would have. But the charger never came back on. This is probably due to the fact that the batteries are already FULLY CHARGED from my testing yesterday, given the information in the previous post by "crash test dummy". Am I correct?

I reconnected the internal meter on the charger. As has been happening lately, after the relay kicks in, the meter never moves. I also does NOT shut down (as it did with my Fluke meter) and continues to charge.

Now I'll have to use the cart for a few short runs and then see what readings I get the next time I go to charge it.

I realize I cannot get a very accurate reading on the meter on the golf cart itself. It is just a reference point that I know from using it these last 8 years that I can gauge what is going on. It's just like depending on those "idiot" lights on the dashboard of the older model automobiles.

I use my Fluke meter regularly to test the individual battery outputs after a filling and charging cycle. Maybe I can put some test posts on the "dashboard" so that I can connect my Fluke meter to it. It apparently is a DC Voltage meter, right?

[jroeiii]

My charger was producing very low Ammeter readings, I replaced the ammeter itself and that ended up being the fix.

I believe it was < $20 from Club Car and worth a shot if you believe the charging function itself is working properly.

[jimdandy745]

Probably my final update on this problem.

I have ordered the meter - $19 plus shipping; should be in next week.

I decided that I couldn't do any more damage, so I removed the ammeter, and physically took it apart (removed the faceplate, the dial and the meter itself from the housing). I didn't notice anything suspicious (nothing burnt or broken, etc.) except what appeared to be remnants of a spider cocoon, but on the inside face of the plastic faceplate covering the dial.

After reassembling the ammeter and reconnecting it - viola, IT WORKS the way it should! Perhaps the dial was physically blocked from moving by the "cocoon", and therefore the feedback to the OBC incorrect and the reason for my symptoms?

I still intend to replace the ammeter when the new one arrives, just because.

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR VALUABLE HELP AND INFORMATION. IT REALLY IS MUCH APPRECIATED.