Some RXV/TXT Kawasaki Observations, TEAM Clutches

[BrewCityMusic]

After scoring my 2010.5 Workhorse MPT, I was noticing that my drive clutch was sticking a bit and not disengaging correctly ... I ordered a set of TEAM clutches and belt from EZGO, only to find out that they were backordered (go figure) - well, in the interim, after using the cart for a couple of weeks the stock clutch freed up and started to work just fine, however the tEAM clutches came today and I couldn't resist popping them on to see what all the hype was about ...

The Existing Clutches (keep in mind this was a privately-owned cart that never saw a course with less than 200 lifetime hours on it - they still have the original factory stickers, LOL) before removal:



Now, the brand new, installed TEAM clutches (total swap time front to back was about 15 minutes):



Note the fact that the clutches are literally less than 1/8" apart from each other - I almost thought something was wrong at first, LOL:



The original driven clutch has "10-28" on it, so I'm assuming it's a 28deg clutch - the belt (when the clutch was closed) rode at the very top of the groove ... The new TEAM setup rides much lower, almost to where I'm thinking some machining to allow the sheaves to close a bit more might not be a bad idea, and would add some more torque. As to the ride, the TEAM clutches are a whole different animal, and to be honest I'm not sure I really like them. The supposed "60%" torque increase is definitely NOT noticeable, in fact the cart lost quite a bit of acceleration. The accel curve is smoother, yes - but it takes much longer for the cart to get up into the powerband. I loaded up the bed with 200lbs of blasting sand and the front with a passenger, and gave it some test time on the hills around here, etc to further figure things out, and to be honest, the cart pulls with more authority up the hills from a dead stop, but WOW does the accel suffer. In normal (for me) higher-speed riding, it seems to tame the ups and downs a bit better now - it's just again, a weird, different curve.

So to conclude, is there more pulling power, likely yes, although the cart actually FEELS weaker due to the slower accel curve (which almost makes no sense, You would assume a huge torque increase would make it peppier, but it definitely doesn't) ... One good thing though is that the TEAM clutches react a lot faster when going say down a hill at high speed and You let off the gas - where the Kawi clutches stayed engaged a bit longer (almost like a light engine braking) the TEAM's allow the cart to keep its' momentum a bit better. Aslo, I'm assuming it's because they are brand new, but the TEAM clutches are considerably louder than the stock Kawi's, they definitely have a distinct "whirring" sound to them at higher RPM's (although this again could be the new belt and clutches being cranky until they wear in a bit).

Anyone else do the swap and have these same results? I hate to say it, but I'm definitely NOT sold just yet on this being a good $400+ upgrade, at least not for MY riding habits. Opinions?

[Beaner913]

I just placed my order for the Team clutches to replace the worn Kawi clutches on my irrigation cart. I will let you know how I feel after the install.

[jonny2guns4u]

BrewCityMusic

A few questions if I may. When you changed out your clutches last year did you use a puller bolt and how did you get access to the Drive Clutch? The frame seems to be in the way on mine and it looks like you have the same cart.

[kgsc]

I did this upgrade on my RXV because the original factory drive clutch had a ring on the clutch face due to wear and was making it squeal.. When I looked the new package for both new clutches and a belt was cheaper than the single drive clutch that made up my mind. I did lose a little top end and it drives a little different but mine does pull better. As for the frame being in the way, same problem on the RXV. I had to pull the leaf spring bolts out the rear shackles so the carriage would drop some and let me get a removal tool in there.. Someone wasn't thinking when they designed this..

[bsain]

Originally Posted by kgsc

I did this upgrade on my RXV because the original factory drive clutch had a ring on the clutch face due to wear and was making it squeal.. When I looked the new package for both new clutches and a belt was cheaper than the single drive clutch that made up my mind. I did lose a little top end and it drives a little different but mine does pull better. As for the frame being in the way, same problem on the RXV. I had to pull the leaf spring bolts out the rear shackles so the carriage would drop some and let me get a removal tool in there.. Someone wasn't thinking when they designed this..

I was able to get the extraction tool into my RXV drive clutch by using a "C" clamp to compress the spring on the front engine cradle mount. This dropped the engine down enough to get the tool past the frame.

[BrewCityMusic]

^ What KG Said ^

:)

[jonny2guns4u]

Well mine is a 2010 TXT but I've learned the RXV had the same clutch setup. I don't know if you read my thread on my Clutch Problems but I have purchased the Driven Clutch, waiting on the Belt but I'm afraid I will end up buying the Drive Clutch. The People at Everything Carts has told me the new Clutch and Belt will work with my existing Drive Clutch but everything I have read says no.

[bsain]

Recently my driven clutch on my '08 RXV went bad and had to be replaced. I was convinced by a cart repair guy to replace both original clutches. I agree with you about the Team clutches being louder than the original EZGO's. Mine are at least twice as noisy as the originals. I really don't like the TEAM brand clutches. Wish I had kept the old drive clutch and bought a new EZGO manufactured driven clutch.

[my1423]

The issues you guys are having with acceleration are all tuning related.
The team clutches are bigger giving you a larger transmission gear ratio.
The issue is these larger clutches are mainly used and tuned for larger displacement engines with lower rpm curves.
Long stroke engines have lower red lines and build torque at lower rpms.
The torque curves look like cliffs on the start and have a long top out and then fall off.
The curves on these little ezgo engines have a long climb very little top then fall off.

You need to either change the main return springs or change the weight of the weights inside to make the engine run at its top torque curve when the clutch shifts.
If it shifts before the peak power you are loosing this power making your cart gutless and slow.

You should get the factory toque curve for your engine. Call team and ask what mods you need to get tuned properly.
There are many things that can effect your tune as well. Pipe and carb changes, engine wear, ect.
There are shops dedicated to doing this.
There are charts available with rpm ranges and spring and weight combos to achieve the proper curves. Have seen many for snowmobile and utvs.

I would open up your drive clutch. See what color springs are in it. Weigh your weights.
A stronger spring possibly lighter weights are probably what you need. But this could be going the wrong way. You may need the opposite. All depends on what is in your clutch.


There is one more issue as well. Having larger diameter clutches that are heavier will make rpm increases take longer. But it also will take longer to bog down and maintain higher power while pulling. This issue only effect sudden changes.