2001 DS Club Car runs great then drops speed

[Young_Buck]

Originally Posted by OLD MEC

Its very possible that the new motor is causing the stock controller to over heat internally because of higher than normal amp draw, and its trying to protect itself from burning up by cutting out? This can be caused by motors HIGH AMPERAGE DEMAND through stock cables, solenoid, controller, and F&R control, and yes even heavy foot over distances?
You in fact have pushed the ability for stock componants to handle the extra load caused by large diameter tires, lift kit, Hd Springs and give you what you wanted so NOW with a motor "that does not need upgrade controller" I think that what is happening is stock cables rated for 75 amps max in total lengths of less than 6', F&R control rated for 70-100 amps, solenoid contacts rated for 70-100 amps, and controller rated for only short periods at 225-250 amps is not able to take the load.

So are you saying that I need to replace cables, F&R control, solenoid contacts, and controller? I would love to upgrade all of the above however thats some money.... sounds like a grand of stuff easy. What would you recommend i start with? i believe from what i have read i will need to upgrade controller and F&R at the same time. in order to upgrade those it would make sense that I would need to upgrade the cables first and I am betting the solenoid as well before the controller or F&R controller... What pieces/brands do you recommend if this is the case?

[GLEEMO]

Well since it seems to be a heat related problem with the controller shutting down ,
(Did U get to test to see if it was hot when the problem happens)
if YES I would go with the controller first after I verified it getting hot.
then solenoid , then F/R then cables

[GLEEMO]

Many of the site Sponsors sell , solinoid, cable upgrades , controlles ... check them out first.

[Young_Buck]

Originally Posted by GLEEMO

Many of the site Sponsors sell , solinoid, cable upgrades , controlles ... check them out first.

will do thanks....

[sonicj]

Originally Posted by GLEEMO

Well since it seems to be a heat related problem with the controller shutting down ,
(Did U get to test to see if it was hot when the problem happens)
if YES I would go with the controller first after I verified it getting hot.
then solenoid , then F/R then cables

i would recommend replacing in the opposite order. replacing the bottlenecks lowers resistance, which lowers voltage drop, which lowers current consumption, which lowers heat. all that stuff needs to be upgraded regardless. you may find that upgrading the supply chain brings temps back within tolerance. if not, add a couple of fans. (fans are almost always a good thing for electronics!)
-sj

[jedotx]

What motor did they sell you. With that info we should be able to cross refrence what controller you should be running. With everything else stock some motor upgrades do not require a controller upgrade but most do. However with your application (lifted/bigger tires, HD rear springs, and back seat) controller upgrade is a must.

[Young_Buck]

Originally Posted by jedotx

What motor did they sell you. With that info we should be able to cross refrence what controller you should be running. With everything else stock some motor upgrades do not require a controller upgrade but most do. However with your application (lifted/bigger tires, HD rear springs, and back seat) controller upgrade is a must.

this is a 2 seater no back seat.... As for motor it is a commander see picture of label...I am looking to upgrade to altrax controller but not sure what model i should use based on the previous info. i think it would be the AXE4855 not sure if i need p or m though. this would be a 500 amp model and should be more than enough i would think. I was under the impression the only reason to increase your controller size was if you needed more torque/pulling power ie wanted to do wheel stands....

[jedotx]

I'm not familiar with the commander, but from the picture it must be a reworked stock club car motor. If everything else were stock you would not necessarily need controller upgrade with that. I'm guessing that since your lifted that’s causing your problem. Unless you are planning some serious upgrades in the future you can go with a 400 amp controller. Alltrax is a well respected brand and is what I'm running. The P stands for plug brake. You don't need that but if you get that model you can install it without using the plug brake (just wire it like the stock controller) again that is what I'm running. I would strongly recommend upgrading the F&R switch and solenoid at the same time as the controller. The controller is the bulk of the expense the other two items are not that expensive. Check with the site sponsors’, many of them offer this equipment at good prices. They will treat you fair and will answer all of your questions.

[Young_Buck]

Originally Posted by jedotx

I'm not familiar with the commander, but from the picture it must be a reworked stock club car motor. If everything else were stock you would not necessarily need controller upgrade with that. I'm guessing that since your lifted that’s causing your problem. Unless you are planning some serious upgrades in the future you can go with a 400 amp controller. Alltrax is a well respected brand and is what I'm running. The P stands for plug brake. You don't need that but if you get that model you can install it without using the plug brake (just wire it like the stock controller) again that is what I'm running. I would strongly recommend upgrading the F&R switch and solenoid at the same time as the controller. The controller is the bulk of the expense the other two items are not that expensive. Check with the site sponsors’, many of them offer this equipment at good prices. They will treat you fair and will answer all of your questions.

will do... will let you guys know what the out come is....

[Young_Buck]

Well i said the heck with it and went a head and upgraded to a 400 amp controller, 4 gauge wire through out, a heavy duty F&R Switch, and the solenoid but now my batteries seem t obe dying pretty quick. i am going to buy new batterries i guess nad see if that fixes itr. hell it should since everything else will be new then Anyway. stareted a new thread for some questions on batterries and AH and making the right choice. Thanks all As for the shutting donw not sure since my batterries are dying so quickly i did not want ot take the chance of getting stranded again to find out....