Question about Motor Terminals

[champy]

Hey folks,
Firstly, thanks for the wealth of information that's already here (especially the wiring diagrams). I'm attempting to make an electric 4-wheeler/golf cart mutation that I call the "Garf Colt" using parts from an old ClubCar (1986 front end and a 2002 48v, 3.1HP stock motor), and after much searching, I've decided it's time to demonstrate my ignorance by simply asking a few questions. Forgive me:

1. What function do each of the motor Terminals (A1, A2, S1 and S2) perform? I've figured out that there's continuity between the A's and the S's, and that to get the motor going without a controller, you need to short S1 and A2 before hooking the battery to the other two terminals, but I'm no good with schematics, and I'm having a hard time figuring out what function the other two terminals perform in a running system.

2. Due to the aforementioned difficulty with schematics, I'm also unclear as to what function the solenoid performs in a system with a controller installed. (My front end is from a 36 volt ClubCar that had 5 solenoids and 3 resistors. No controller. Hence, I can't go test a system with my multimeter to find out what's going on) What is it doing there?

3. Hypothetically, what would be the negative ramifications of bypassing the controller/solenoids and resistors with a switch to make a straight 48 volt (or more) mode? (Other than being stuck at a constant speed.) Is there a reason the motor couldn't handle that?

4. I'm trying not to use a proper gearbox, but I'd rather use a chain and sprocket system. Is there a place where one could find a good deal on a 10-tooth spline shaft for the motor in that case, and do you have any suggestions for closing off the end of the motor other than simply fabricating a metal lid with which to keep dust out and by which to mount the motor?

I apologize for the ignorance here, but that's why I've come to you. I'm sure there are a jillion people posting here who know the answers to at least some of these questions and I thank you for you replies in advance.

First...WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

1.The "A" terminals are for the armature and the "S" terminals are for feild coil. I dont think you should have continuity between A and S terminals unless you have a dead short between the armature and feild.

2. On a controller cart the solenoid engages and supplies power to the controller. The controller act like a switch...the slower you turn the switch off an on the slower your cart goes....the faster you turn the switch off and on the faster you go.

3. You can do it...but you may not like the sudden jerk upon take-off. And....will your gears axles...etc handle the shock. I use something similar but start out on the controller..then hit with either another 36-72 volts.

4.You have an open end motor right? if so...do yourself a favor and use a golf cart rear axle designed for the motor or get another motor with a shaft. That would cost you lots-o-money to get an end bell machined. Not that it would not work.

[champy]

Hey, thanks for the quick reply! I'm afraid my first question was phrased rather vaguely. I don't have continuity between A and S terminals, the "A" terminals have continuity between each other and the "S" terminals have continuity between themselves also. Sorry about that.

Is there some place that I could find detailed specs for my motor? As in Volts per RPM, etc? Thanks for your help.

Originally Posted by champy

Hey, thanks for the quick reply! I'm afraid my first question was phrased rather vaguely. I don't have continuity between A and S terminals, the "A" terminals have continuity between each other and the "S" terminals have continuity between themselves also. Sorry about that.

Is there some place that I could find detailed specs for my motor? As in Volts per RPM, etc? Thanks for your help.

As far as a place for specs I dont know. I can give you an example though...on a 36 volt motor if you run 48 volts you can expect torque and speed to go up about 20-25%. Your motor should turn around 2800 rpms.

[champy]

Hey, Thanks Roady89, for all your input here. I have another question along similar lines: Do you (or anyone) have any idea if the windings on a 48v Stock 3.1HP ClubCar Motor are also supposed to run at 48v? It would make sense to me for them to have the armature and the windings at the same voltage, but one never knows, I suppose. I understand that undervolting your windings will speed the motor up, but also draw more current, which runs the risk of toasting it, while over-volting has the opposite effect. Naturally, I'd love to be certain I'm feeding it the right amount of juice. Thanks again for all your help.

Originally Posted by champy

Do you (or anyone) have any idea if the windings on a 48v Stock 3.1HP ClubCar Motor are also supposed to run at 48v?

That motor is a "series" wound motor....Both armature and feild coils recieve the same amount of voltage and amps. If/when you tied A2 to S2(or A* to S*, which ever) you placed the armature and feild in series with one another. You can run a shunt on the feild and it will boost your armature current and increase your speed but loose torque. Running a shunt on a series wound motor is a sure way to a short motor life. In other words, Yes that motor is designed to run 48 volts on both feild and armature.

Increasing power to the feild windings you get more torque
Decreasing power to the feild windings you get less torque

Increasing power to the armature you get more speed
Decreasing power to the armature you get less speed.
I think thats right.

[tbrracer]

hey roady89 I got a question.. shunt setup


I am new to club cars but have has and still do ez-go's
I can install the extra silinoid and shunt setup on my ezgo but i just bought a club car villager 07 iq system and would like to install one on that also. But do not want to screw it up , i know the dangers of it already but what wires
do i hook up to from the siloind to the motor? I think on the motor I would goto a1 right? and from the other side of the silnoid to what connection on the speed control atleast thats where i get it from on my ezgo...any help would be appreciated please feel free to email me rick@goschauto.com

Thanks
Rick

Originally Posted by roady89

That motor is a "series" wound motor....Both armature and feild coils recieve the same amount of voltage and amps. If/when you tied A2 to S2(or A* to S*, which ever) you placed the armature and feild in series with one another. You can run a shunt on the feild and it will boost your armature current and increase your speed but loose torque. Running a shunt on a series wound motor is a sure way to a short motor life. In other words, Yes that motor is designed to run 48 volts on both feild and armature.

Increasing power to the feild windings you get more torque
Decreasing power to the feild windings you get less torque

Increasing power to the armature you get more speed
Decreasing power to the armature you get less speed.
I think thats right.

[roady89]

In a nutshell....You cant use that extra solenoid/shunt on an IQ cart. Those only work on series style motors.

[tbrracer]

anything besides upgrading the controller and motor, no little tricks? Man you are like golf cart encylopedia from all the reading i have been doing :)

one other question
My serial is
QS0745-XXXXXX would mean ?

qs = ?
07 = 2007 correct?
45 = 45 week built correct?

But what is the QS stand for?
Thanks
Rick

Thanks

[NO NO NO E-Z-GO!]

I have never heard of the QS prefix, but I would guess it's an IQ cart and a DS model. That is a complete shot in the dark though.