87 ezgo will not start

[slackiller]

So I rebuilt fuel pump, old diaphragms were still intact but rebuilt it any how.
I cranked engine with pump off and could feel a decent pressure coming up.
I installed pump and cranked and it just happened to be dark out, I could see every once in a while when engine would hiss or semi backfire(not out exhaust), I could see orange (small flame)by rear engine area. also belt pulley seems wet. Will recheck in daylight

[Sean5545]

It's the crank seal under the flywheel.....check it, order new ones, get yourself a cross arm puller, 2-m6-1.00 by 65MM Bolts. A 10,12 and 13 mm socket, locktite retaining compound a hammer, a punch, 3 beers and 2 hours...I was able to do this with the engine in the cart however it was much easier with the engine out. And also that seal doesn't sit flush with the outside of the case, it sits down in the race about 1/8-1/4"

[Sean5545]

Oh and do yourself a favor, REMOVE THE PLASTIC FAN (6 Phillips head screws with retainer clips) and no matter what DO NOT pry against the case to pop the flywheel....they both will break very easily

[slackiller]

ok after a long delay, I got back to work on this hog.

I took engine out and disassembled some, had a broken head bolt and blown cylinder gasket (pissing oil out). It has some play in piston to cylinder wall.
I was going to buy a new piston and rings kit.

how would I know if I should get an oversized set up .25mm or .50mm over.
does anyone know the original size? should I stick with original size set up?
or I could just get a new cylinder and piston set ... would that be better?
I see them from $195 to $230

I have a 244cc 2 stroke

[clr.R4tch3t]

The jug on my 87 2PG was pretty visibly worn, and my machinist said it would be tough to clean it up with a .5 over piston but he would do his best. The only way to really know for sure is to measure with a bore gauge in the most damaged area. .50 over is not very much to work with. I bought new crank bearings on Amazon for a steal and replaced the crank seals while I was at it. The cost of a new jug and OEM piston vs. cost of piston and custom bore made it worthwhile to go to the max size available piston and a good as new jug wall.

[slackiller]

I ordered a whole new set up..... i have new seals , gonna clean it all up and paint it

[clr.R4tch3t]

If you have any desire to split the case, these are the bearings I got off of Amazon. I had a ton of up and down play in my crank, so it made sense for me to replace them during my rebuild. I can't give any insight on longevity.. but for the price of them I could rebuild the bottom end 5 times before the cost came close to oem bearings.

[slackiller]

cool thanks, I didn't seem to have any play in crank. so hopefully everything will work out.

[slackiller]

I finally got it to run after doing the HEI conversion , it had no spark (or sporadic spark). I put it all back together, added fuel and oil.
cart ran ok, but moved really slow, so I reversed pulsar wires, ran better with more power.

Only thing now is when the cart goes it will go a few feet with power but then engine will drop down to an idle with pedal pushed to floor and stops moving.
I let off gas and hit it again and it will go another 5 to 10 feet and do it again.
drop to an idle . it will do this in forward and reverse. It smokes pretty good also, but I did add quite a bit of oil to gas so it will be lubed when it first started.

I'm happy as hell that it finally ran, but now on to the next issue

I also do not have the governor hooked up yet, it was never hooked up and I have to see if everything is there and check the manual.

[cart around]

When you say it drops down to an idle, it's not really idling. It's not even running.

You are turning the starter, but it's not running.

It sounds like you are losing spark. That could be a bad coil, or something is grounding out. Maybe the plug, maybe the spark plug wire.