2000 EZGO TXT Gas no power

[soccermania421]

Hello,

My family is going to Disney for a week and rather than renting a cart at the campground there I decided to put that money toward the purchase of our very own cart we can use at home around the property. Like usual I bought more than I bargained for. The seller told me the motor had been recently rebuilt and explained that it didn't have a lot of power and needed to be on flat to haul more than one person and wouldn't go up hills. Yes, I still purchased it knowing some things would need to be repaired.

The driven clutch was broke as the sheaves could be moved back and forth with no effort whatsoever and the drive clutch was worn down, causing the belt to feather.

So I replaced both clutches (using the 28degree driven for more torque since cart is lifted), new belt, and new K&N air filter. It is a little better but still doesn't have a lot of power. It won't go up a little hill. The drive clutch spins but the belt doesn't move. The motor runs good when on flat smooth ground but as soon as there is any resistance the motor bogs down and won't come back to life for some time. I am at my wits end with why it is doing this and still has no power with a recently rebuilt engine and new clutches. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

Also, the battery gets VERY hot. Could the voltage regulator be bad and it's overcharging? The battery exploded on me today when I was out test driving it after putting on the new drive clutch. The water level may have been low to. I guess I'll see what happens with the new battery I now have to buy.

[CP241]

Sounds like you bought a handful!

I guess the first question would be, how comfortable are you working on your own motor? I think you have a lot of different little things going on adding up to one big mess!

Since clutches are new, the first thing I would do is check valve lash. Pay particular attention to the 2 in the middle. When adjusted properly (.004") if the center 2 valves show noticeably more threads than the 2 outside valves, the valves are junk and need to be replaced.

While in there I would do a compression test, just so you know where it stands. Unfortunately, sellers frequently lie. Just because he said the motor was just rebuilt doesnt mean it is so, or mean it was done correctly if it was done at all. It should have no problem climbing hills with 1 or 4 people.

I just bought a club car. He said it ran but the battery is dead and the solenoid is bad. He was right... the battery was dead and the solenoid bad. And it DOES (did) run but knocked so much it put a yanmar diesel to shame. Theres a hole in the back of the motor I can fit 3 fingers in. But I bought it at a price knowing it was going to need major engine work so I'm not surprised/disappointed/upset. I've bought so many "projects" that I've learned that pretty much all of the people selling stuff are so full of it their teeth should be brown. I dont even ask what's wrong anymore, just load it on my trailer and figure it out when I get it home.

Were here to help! Welcome to the family

[dirtyyoda77]

Originally Posted by CP241

I dont even ask what's wrong anymore, just load it on my trailer and figure it out when I get it home.

You are so right

But if you need any help I am about 2hrs away if it gets real bad

Know these motors somewhat good rebuilt 2 of them and about to rebuild a 3rd soon

[soccermania421]

Thanks for the replies CP241 and dirtyyoda. I ran a compression test today as well as check the valve lash. First compression test was 140 and 150. I adjusted the valves to .006 b/c that's the smallest feeler I have. All the valves were greater than that and needed to be adjusted down. Post valve adjustment the compression test yielded 145 and 150 so about the same.

I don't know if it could be bad gas. If I put the cart in neutral the engine revs up great and is very responsive to the throttle. However, it is when it is in gear and there is a load on the engine that it becomes very sluggish. Also, white smoke comes from the exhaust when revved up in neutral. Smells like gas.

[CP241]

Big question... when you adjusted the valves, did you look at how many threads were showing above the lock nut? If the 2 middle valves (intake) showed more threads than the outside 2 valves, the intake valves are worn and need to be replaced.

145-150 compression is a little low, should be 160+. Worn valves can make a big impact on compression. Hut 150 isn't bad, just not where it should be.

When you rev it in neutral watch the clutches. The front clutch should start in the middle and the belt should smoothly transition to the outside of the clutch. The rear clutch should start on the outside of the clutch and smoothly transition to the inside of the clutch as you rev it up. Make sure you do this on jack stands!

[soccermania421]

So.......I may have figured it out :) I got a new set of feeler gauges to adjust the valve lash down to .004 from .006 to see if that made any difference. It didn't. Compression is still the same. However, I had bought some new spark plugs since i was already taking the old ones out to run the compression test. I compared the gap on the new plugs to the old one and it was the same so I threw the new ones in, as is. The cart wouldn't start, so I threw in the old plugs and guess what.......it started but still ran poorly. While adjusting the valves again today, i noticed the other old spark plug had a different gap that was MUCH smaller. The cart must have been running on only 1 cylinder. I gapped both of my new plugs to the correct specs and the engine runs like a top with no bogging out under load. I'm picking up a new drive belt tomorrow since the old one is worn and feathered from the damaged clutches I replaced. Fingers crossed the belt is the last piece needed. I'll keep you posted and thanks for leading me to the valves and compression, or who knows how long it would have taken me to rule that out.

Also, I did check the thread count above the lock nut and there are no threads showing. The top thread is pretty much flush with the top of the lock nut.

[CP241]

Great to hear. Gotta love it when it's a $4 fix!

Unfortunately, you've only scratched the surface. The belt isn't the last piece. Theres always wheels, tires, lift, radio, lights, under car lights, custom paint... it's an addiction. One to keep you busy for many years to come, if not with the cart it will be another you stumble across cheap and think it would be a good project to play with. Learn on.... it's okay. I'm not far from you. Once I find a 12 step program we can go together

[soccermania421]

Haha..... It’s funny you say that. I have a whole list of things in my amazon cart that I had to painstakingly choose “save for later” ��

[1arunem]

I recently had a very similar issue with a friends EZGO ST350.. Ran but very poorly. Would barely go up moderate hills, etc.

One plug was bad. Replaced it and it ran like a top.

Wish I had seen your post sooner. That was the first thing I thought of when you mentioned your running issue. (that or a high gear rear end with big tires)..

[soccermania421]

UPDATE: I got a new drive belt the other day (severe duty) and have been working the past couple of days to break it in. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I can finally make it up the slope of my drain field but still can't do it from a dead stop. If I start at the bottom from a dead stop or I stop on the slope the cart won't move and motor is bogged down. I feel like I should be able to start the cart on the slope and have it move with just me.
Having checked the compression, adjusted the valves, new spark plugs properly gapped, new drive and driven clutch, severe duty drive belt, and new K&N filter I don't know what I can do to get it to do this one last thing. On the flat it's great.
Could it have anything to do with the ignition, voltage regulator, or generator? The more likely scenario in my mind would be a lack of fuel when trying to build rpm's while under load. Thoughts??????

EDIT: I just tried to climb with the engine cold and it worked okay. Seems to not have the power it should once warmed up.