G19E cuts out

[Universal_Mechanic]

A few months ago, we got a G19E that was DOA (cheap price).

Put new batteries in it (48v system) and replaced the motor brush holder/brushes (rusted/corroded bad), and finally got it running, but it would just STOP dead randomly. Turned out the spider gear pin (newer pressed spline type pin) had fallen out halfway and was locking the rear up (pin was catching one of the reduction gears) That explains why the motor was not attached, someone was already screwing with it. So I harvested the gears that were damaged, from an old ez-go rear which had the same rear (I think they're both spicers) except for motor flange and spring mounts were different. So that all went well, got the rear all fixed up.

Problem is, the car will just randomly cut out. Higher speeds, any throttle position.... Playing around with the pedal gets it to kick back in. Solenoid is always on when the problem occurs. I even jumped the solenoid contacts to rule out bad solenoid. Did some dmm tests, and found the throttle position sensor had some dead spots, replaced it. Smoother operation, but the **** thing still cuts out....

Three things to consider. 1.). The motor armature has a *slight* twist to it from the rear locking up. 2.) The motor speed sensor is not there. It was so corroded (I guess since the motor was sitting in the bagwell open side up for who knows how long). Haven't replaced that, but was told by yamaha that it doesn't have to be there, its *only* used for the regen (not sure how true this is). 3.) I'm wondering if the controller is ok, seeing as how the rear was locking up and abruptly stopping the motor.....

Looking into #1 above.... Could a slightly twisted armature be sending some type of "bad feedback" back to the controller, messing with it? I mean, if the magnetic field is jilted, will the controller care? #2, anyone know if a missing speed sensor would cause this?

I'd hate to get a pricey controller for the thing and have it not be fixed because the motor was screwy, or the missing speed sensor is the problem. I don't want to just throw parts at it, I hate doing that.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions, I'd really like to get this one completed.

[Universal_Mechanic]

Are there any electric cart gurus here? Looks like I need one.... Usually if I can't figure out a problem, and post it, seems like nobody else can help. Lol, I seem to end up in these diagnostic nightmares from time to time...y'know, the kind that flow-charts and service manuals don't help with.


Sorry for the long, involved opening post..... Ill try to summarize it.

G19 rear was bad, locking up. Twisted motor armature slightly as a result. Motor was sitting in bagwell for months probably, what looked to be outside in the elements. Motor was rebuild, noticed twisted armature in the rebuild process. Either the twist is messing with the field and throwing the controller out of sorts, or the controller itself took such a hard amperage hit that its whacked out. Or the missing speed sensor is messing things up.

Any ideas? I won't bump this thread anymore, due to the complexity of the problem.

[Mike Mac]

Can't help with your problem, but chase down "smallblock450sl". He may be able to help.
"Scottyb" maybe another one. He's in the ezgo sect.

[smallblock450sl]

I feel for you. There are times service manual trouble shooting flow charts and ZR-1 tester harness(for g19's) and the PDA diagnostic reader for the G22 and "the Drives" don't help find the problem. First, I would suspect the motor/armature situation. All the controller needs is a bad "signal" back from a componet and it shuts down, useually you need to use the run/tow switch (I suggest 5 minutes, to drain the energy put of the capacitors in the controller) before it will start running again. Did the motor smell "burnt" before you did the brush work? The "locking up" of the rearend would be like pushing or pulling the car against the anti runaway/regen feature and I've seen "smoked" motor's from that. Disableling the sensor would have no effect. If you have a known good motor, I would try that. Sorry I could not be more help. You don't even want to hear about a G19 a ClubCar dealer droped off for repair today

[Universal_Mechanic]

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

I feel for you. There are times service manual trouble shooting flow charts and ZR-1 tester harness(for g19's) and the PDA diagnostic reader for the G22 and "the Drives" don't help find the problem. First, I would suspect the motor/armature situation. All the controller needs is a bad "signal" back from a componet and it shuts down, useually you need to use the run/tow switch (I suggest 5 minutes, to drain the energy put of the capacitors in the controller) before it will start running again. Did the motor smell "burnt" before you did the brush work? The "locking up" of the rearend would be like pushing or pulling the car against the anti runaway/regen feature and I've seen "smoked" motor's from that. Disableling the sensor would have no effect. If you have a known good motor, I would try that. Sorry I could not be more help. You don't even want to hear about a G19 a ClubCar dealer droped off for repair today

Thanks a lot for your advice. I usually don't have to ask how to fix things, but this one is a good one. Biggest problem is we have a very limited supply of 48v yamaha parts laying around. So that means we'd have to buy a motor. Or buy a controller. That's my major predicament here. Maybe we can hunt down a used motor and try that out.

The motor didn't really smell or look smoked, but its hard to say, looked like it had gotten rained on a few times

This is a back-burner car, but it would be nice to get it done and up for sale.

I guess the next step is a motor. I didn't like that twisted armature, and suspected it might cause a problem, but wasn't sure. I'm sort of assuming that if the controller had a problem, it wouldn't run at all, but I'm not sure with the regen cars.

Well anyway, thanks again. Ill be sure to update the thread once I finally get this pos sorted out.