Front shocks on my G2 are dead..

[maxim1157]

Sho..I am pretty sure that when I had the shocks apart to paint, that the front shocks did just as you mentioned..no resistance. wouldn't moving the shock to the outside hole make the shocks even softer yet? You are laying the shocks down vs moving them in would stand them up and make the front end stand up and be stiffer..

[maxim1157]

Mike..spot looks good sitting there all tall and straight..good boy Spot

[sho305]

Laying them down does reduce force yes, but moving them closer gives the shock more leverage on the arm and reduces travel (the shock travels more per what the wheel does) so it makes the shock stronger so to speak. Its not good for your ride and will have less travel, that is what I mean by the stock shocks not being ideal for more travel but you work with what you have.

I made my lift way back, I put multiple holes at the top to move the shock in or out. I moved it in and made it weaker. I cut the arms so they are angled down more to make lift, also the top shock brackets are lower. Its not ideal because I put too much angle on the arms but it works for what I need. I should have less angle and lowered the arms for the rest of the lift, split the difference, and it would not have messed up the steering geometry as much in sharp turns. Anyway what I mean is I run the shocks (and my arms are stock length) softer and also about 8psi in the 22 tires. In the rear its stiffer and run 12-15psi in the tires. Mostly 15 for hauling loads. In this cart it handles trails better this way sometimes a hard corner will get the rear to slide out a little. Before that setup the front tires would slide in corners. But a newer cart with articulated rear will be different the rear is softer by design.

Shocks have no oil ride will bounce, tire will bounce over bumps, but ride height will not change. Also note the softer the suspension the more ride height will change with changes in load. Its a problem for single arm suspension in front that is hard to get around. Best you can do is set it up for the most common load you will have on it.

[maxim1157]

I will try the shaft collars first and if I see that is not working, I will go the 400ex route they are cheaper than OEM Yamaha.

[sho305]

OEM still don't work that well with a lift, if you go atv/etc shocks they work better if you can find ones the size you need that work how you want. I tried some aftermarket on the rear and they worked great until I hit some stutter bumps on a road and the rear sunk to the ground lol, they had way too much rebound.

[maxim1157]

Been in touch with a few guys on ebay with 400ex shocks the center to center are 16 3/4" and the stock G2 shocks are 11" .. I feel that they are too long without modification to mounts. I just found these on a pit bike site,they are identical to the OEM Yamaha G2 shocks.

[Mike Mac]

John,I have NO experience with other than stock shocks, but people on here say the 400ex shocks are to soft.

I'd put the car together, and drive it. You have single a motion rear end in your car, that may make up for the soft front sus!! You can add the collers at a later date!! The proper toe-in as well as the weight and the terrain has a lot to do with this type of sus!!

The more upright the shock is, the more control the shock will have. But the more the shock is laid over, the more suspension travel the same shock will accomadate!! But I'm sure you know that, its just a fine line to find what works for you!!

[maxim1157]

Mike I did see where the 400ex was soft, plus the extra 5 3/4" length between the eyes are going to raise the front too much . I am going to add the shaft collars and drive it. I have a lot to do before that happens

Here's another question I have , I picked up my new "take off clutch" on Saturday . . Do you apply anything on the shaft before putting the clutch on? And what is the torque on the bolt ?

[Mike Mac]

Nothing on the shaft!! And somewhere around 50#!!

[maxim1157]

Thanks Mike..will be getting this task done tomorrow night after work.