Working on G2

[smokindawg]

A lot of the economy lifts being used with no problems at all. But, I'd say it depends on what you plan to do with the cart.

If the 6" is what you really want then I'd hold off and save up for that one. Otherwise you'll always wish you had waited. Just my .02 worth and it isn't worth that much.

[Dave in VA]

Originally Posted by mustangwagz

Got my Secondary machined this evening, took about .060 off it, gave me JUST under a 1/2" wide flat mating surface. My red "Torque" spring came in the mail today and spacer as well.. I will say this.. I didn't use the red spring.. Holy crap is it stiff, ever time id try to slowly release the floating section of the sheave, it'd blow the woodruff key outta the hole! Kinda thinking it was a waste.. BUT.. what I DID do is this..

Took the spacer and flipped it, (yes, I removed the snap ring) bringing the helix out closer to sheave face.. Then I installed a washer that I had to hand fit to the diameter of the splines.. THEN installed helix, Factory spring (in B-4) and then assembled as usual.

Results? Ive deff got higher RPM's at lower speeds like I wanted to accomplish. I DID lose top speed as well. (thinking cuz I shimmed the helix out so much.. I assume its because I lost sheave travel due to spring compression)

Ive got some combinations I can play with at this moment.. I may try using the red spring WITHOUT the spacer to see what I can accomplish in that sense.. Probably won't gain anything really, id assume it'll keep me at about the same ratio I am now.. (id gain a little helix depth towards trans..but id lose compression room due to stiffness and overall thickness of spring coils)

That's not a good idea. The spacer is to prevent the helix/spring seat from rubbing against the trans case. That's what happens when the OEM clip breaks.

[G1-G9]

I know the Jake's 6" lift kit looks a lot better than the 4" economy lift. I have a 6" Jake's on my cart and I also have a cart with a 4" economy lift and both carts have the same tires and shocks, they are both the same height. The Jake's gives you more clearance on the front but the back has the same clearance. I have been to CAW with both lift's and been very happy with both and no problems. I do believe if I didn't have the Jake's kit this past trip I would have been done riding after I hit the tree. The Jake's kit a very very well built lift for sure.

[sho305]

The spacer should leave the helix (actually the spring perch I think) very close to the same place as the snap ring in the groove would. Its not supposed to change the location of it.

It is very common to have to ratchet strap the sheaves together to get a big spring in there. That is why I tell people to get a new nut, some have had the nut fly off. Some you can ziptie the spring but I don't know if that works on big springs it works great on stock springs. The clutch is not made for that kind of pressure, the huge secondary spring is a band aid on the fact that you can't do much with the primary. There is no spring you can't change engagement. I drilled holes in the weights of mine to raise shift rpm a little it helped. It lightened the weights. Finally had to get a comet so I could run it higher rpm there was no other way.

[mustangwagz]

Originally Posted by Dave in VA

That's not a good idea. The spacer is to prevent the helix/spring seat from rubbing against the trans case. That's what happens when the OEM clip breaks.

NICE!! Glad ya told me! haha. Thank for the info!

[mustangwagz]

Originally Posted by sho305

The spacer should leave the helix (actually the spring perch I think) very close to the same place as the snap ring in the groove would. Its not supposed to change the location of it.

It is very common to have to ratchet strap the sheaves together to get a big spring in there. That is why I tell people to get a new nut, some have had the nut fly off. Some you can ziptie the spring but I don't know if that works on big springs it works great on stock springs. The clutch is not made for that kind of pressure, the huge secondary spring is a band aid on the fact that you can't do much with the primary. There is no spring you can't change engagement. I drilled holes in the weights of mine to raise shift rpm a little it helped. It lightened the weights. Finally had to get a comet so I could run it higher rpm there was no other way.

Thanks Sho! I ended up using the OEM spring, with the spacer in place but flipped backwards to apply a little more pressure to helix. I also replaced my plastic buttons. ill leave the red outta there.. I can't see it being very helpful..


As for your primary weights.. I thought making them heavier would cause later engagement..but...how that I think about it.. if it WAS spring loaded..then heavier would be ideal..but since our primary is an unloaded version..lighter WOULD make sense.. Got any pics of the drilled weights? I may have to make mine look like Swiss cheese also.. Or recommendations on how many holes to make, safely, without compromising the integrity?

[mustangwagz]

Scored an Electric start 8.5hp HONDA today... the ole yamahahahaha engine is smoking like a cheap date... Its probably about to roast itself. lol Really sluggish and lots of blow by.. So now I need to get me a 780r and then I can begin the build! lol

So should I install the 8.5 or try to sell it and buy a bigger clone?

[mustangwagz]

Wellllll....

The 8.5 I got is no good to me. It had a 4" water pump on it..figured just pull pump and id have a sweet strait shaft engine.. well...NOPE!

Turns out, its actually a strait, non keyed shaft with a threaded end on it..So "Smokey" is still looking for a organ donor. haha!

Shucks!!