Cost to Overhaul

[Texas001]

My compression is low and after motor gets warm I hear some clatter that don't sound right and so I am thinking about an engine overhaul. But before I take it in to my local guy I am wondering what is a "normal" overhaul cost. I mean new rings (hone cylinders) and bearings thru out and a new oil pump. When cold my oil PSI is around 50 but when it gets hot it drops to around 5 psi at idle and 20 PSI at driving speed, say 2000 RPMs. Does this sound like an overhaul is warranted? Thanks

[cart around]

You should probably try this first. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ezgo-...djustment.html

[Texas001]

Originally Posted by cart around

You should probably try this first. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ezgo-...djustment.html

I would say that I can rebuild it and have that skill but I am over the hill mechanic wise (77 years old) and so I am letting someone else skin their knuckles. Also, I don't have the facilities to pull the engine (and God knows with my back I can't just lift it out). So that is why I am asking what a golf shop would charge so I can compare that with my local shop, just to be sure that i don't get screwed.

[cart around]

I was suggesting that maybe you just need to adjust the valves, and not a total rebuild.

Maybe a neighbor kid would be willing to learn something while you talk him through it.

[cturk1010]

had low compression in mine and what I found is a fully rebuilt one was a grand not installed I did find one for 650 plus shipping and your old motor in Georgia cant imagine it would cost a couple hundred to install it not that hard good luck

[sccowboy]

There are a few options. To obtain a rebuild kit is around 350 ish bucks. Shop fees to hone the cyls are totally dependent on your area, mine ran 40 bucks. The engine is not really that heavy, and you could solicit a neighbor to help lift it out of the compartment. Now if you want to do a drop in replacement, you could look into CT Rebuilds. For around 650-700 you can get a nice more powerful rebuilt engine and just drop it in. Use the search feature to look for the contact info for them.

Before you do any of that, I would do as suggested and adjust your valves which wont take you more than about 20 mins.

[clarkj2416]

Definitely try adjusting the valves first. The intake valves on these engines are made of a softer metal and are notorious for wearing down and sucking up into the head. If there is minimal wear, adjusting the valves will buy you some time. If there is a lot of wear (you will be able to tell by how much adjustment is required) they will need to be replaced. I have a lot of experience with these engines. If the valves have excessive wear, so do the cylinders. You might see crosshatching in the cylinder walls but don't be fooled. They are out of spec. Check them with a bore gauge. You will find the most wear where the rings set in the tdc position and where the combustion takes place. So......
Try adjusting the valves first. If that works, great. If not, I recommend a complete rebuild and that will run you about 600. Ct rebuilds and I ( Motor City Rebuilds / ebay-clark2416) both sell on ebay. Beware of the guy from California selling on ebay. I believe he is doing a ring, gasket, paint job rebuild not a quality rebuild.

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[Texas001]

Originally Posted by clarkj2416

Definitely try adjusting the valves first. The intake valves on these engines are made of a softer metal and are notorious for wearing down and sucking up into the head. If there is minimal wear, adjusting the valves will buy you some time. If there is a lot of wear (you will be able to tell by how much adjustment is required) they will need to be replaced. I have a lot of experience with these engines. If the valves have excessive wear, so do the cylinders. You might see crosshatching in the cylinder walls but don't be fooled. They are out of spec. Check them with a bore gauge. You will find the most wear where the rings set in the tdc position and where the combustion takes place. So......
Try adjusting the valves first. If that works, great. If not, I recommend a complete rebuild and that will run you about 600. Ct rebuilds and I ( Motor City Rebuilds / ebay-clark2416) both sell on ebay. Beware of the guy from California selling on ebay. I believe he is doing a ring, gasket, paint job rebuild not a quality rebuild.

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Thanks so much. My Compression on both cylinders is 110. That is why I am considering the re-build.

[sccowboy]

Re check the comp once the valves are in spec.

[Texas001]

Originally Posted by clarkj2416

Definitely try adjusting the valves first. The intake valves on these engines are made of a softer metal and are notorious for wearing down and sucking up into the head. If there is minimal wear, adjusting the valves will buy you some time. If there is a lot of wear (you will be able to tell by how much adjustment is required) they will need to be replaced. I have a lot of experience with these engines. If the valves have excessive wear, so do the cylinders. You might see crosshatching in the cylinder walls but don't be fooled. They are out of spec. Check them with a bore gauge. You will find the most wear where the rings set in the tdc position and where the combustion takes place. So......
Try adjusting the valves first. If that works, great. If not, I recommend a complete rebuild and that will run you about 600. Ct rebuilds and I ( Motor City Rebuilds / ebay-clark2416) both sell on ebay. Beware of the guy from California selling on ebay. I believe he is doing a ring, gasket, paint job rebuild not a quality rebuild.

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Having read a couple of posts about adjusting valves I still am at a loss as to whether to adjust cold or hot. I see that the norm is set the gap at .004. But if you set it at .004 cold would it not when hot close that gap completely or somewhat? If you set it hot at .004 it would likely always be .004, except when cold when the metal actually would shrink some and open the gap. When you rebuild your engines, do you set hot or cold and at what gap? Thanks