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Old 06-13-2014, 04:54 PM   #1
Robey
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Default Internal Starter/Generator Problem

I have axquired a 1977 Marathon with the Robins 244cc. I bought it as a basket case, starting a project with my sons. After reading the forums, I'm scared. All I see is if it runs...they run great. If it's broke, don't bother. So, here I am, and on with my dilema;

First-I do not know if this runs or not, previous owner never had it going.
Second-The motor spins, has compression (not sure how good, but thumps pretty decent out of the exhaust when spun by hand)
Third-Engine does not look like it was abused, very clean, externally, and head of the piston in not super carboned up.

Currently I have the motor out of the cart, with all of the starting switches and components. I have replaced all dryrotted/cracked wiring, and cleaned every terminal back to shiny/new appearance. I tried applying battery power to it, and all I hear is the solenoid click when the accelerator switch is activated. One click, nothing else. when I remove the battery cables, I hear the solenoid disengage. This happens in forward or reverse. If power is left attached, the solenoid heats up. If I set the drive selector inbetween (off contact point of the selector switch) I can apply power, and activate the accelerator switch on and off, and now the solenoid engages and disengages accordingly. Just as a note, with the engine out, I have also connected jumper cables from the frame, to the engine for grounding purposes.

Is there a way to test the starter, without removing the fan/point/magneto cover? I took the point inspection cover off, and looked inside, the brushes look intact, and everything seems to move without resistance. I think I'm missing something small, but am at my witts end. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? BTW This is my first experience with golf car engines, but I have some automotive knowledge...this is why I'm frustrated
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:03 PM   #2
1989Marathon
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

Here's a link to the manual. It has a pretty good testing procedure for the starter.

Manual
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:03 PM   #3
93yellowclubcar
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robey View Post
I have axquired a 1977 Marathon with the Robins 244cc. I bought it as a basket case, starting a project with my sons. After reading the forums, I'm scared. All I see is if it runs...they run great. If it's broke, don't bother. So, here I am, and on with my dilema;

First-I do not know if this runs or not, previous owner never had it going.
Second-The motor spins, has compression (not sure how good, but thumps pretty decent out of the exhaust when spun by hand)
Third-Engine does not look like it was abused, very clean, externally, and head of the piston in not super carboned up.

Currently I have the motor out of the cart, with all of the starting switches and components. I have replaced all dryrotted/cracked wiring, and cleaned every terminal back to shiny/new appearance. I tried applying battery power to it, and all I hear is the solenoid click when the accelerator switch is activated. One click, nothing else. when I remove the battery cables, I hear the solenoid disengage. This happens in forward or reverse. If power is left attached, the solenoid heats up. If I set the drive selector inbetween (off contact point of the selector switch) I can apply power, and activate the accelerator switch on and off, and now the solenoid engages and disengages accordingly. Just as a note, with the engine out, I have also connected jumper cables from the frame, to the engine for grounding purposes.

Is there a way to test the starter, without removing the fan/point/magneto cover? I took the point inspection cover off, and looked inside, the brushes look intact, and everything seems to move without resistance. I think I'm missing something small, but am at my witts end. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? BTW This is my first experience with golf car engines, but I have some automotive knowledge...this is why I'm frustrated
Have you tried jumping the large posts of the solenoid? A clicking solenoid is not always a good one...


EDIT: Or use the manual above - actual test procedures are usually better than rednecking it up.
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:08 PM   #4
Robey
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

Yes. I tried jumping the post, still nothing. I'm concerned because it's also heating up??? That usually indicates a short somewhere.
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:10 PM   #5
Robey
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

Thank you for the manual link, looking at it now.

I did follow a wiring diagram, and made sure all my components were wired correctly. I found none that appeared to be out of order.
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:56 PM   #6
Robey
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

OK...you guys are awesome!

Manual...A+

Took flywheel off...pulled starter, armature good, but outside magneto steel..had rusted on lower third. Emery cloth, and brake cleaner...abra cadabra,,,starter cranks now!

next issue...When I depress accelerator switch, motor continues to turn over? I have to disconnect battery to stop it. Any ideas or help here?
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:48 PM   #7
mrday6
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

Hello!..im new here but I also wanted to say thanks for posting this manual!!!...Ive been searching for a week...I also bought an old ezgo with the robin engine and internal starter/gen...thing runs like a top but it has been rigged up here and there...no pedal switch...turn on the key and it goes, luckily it idles good but does anyone know if this will eventually harm the starter?..it also does not charge so i bought a deep cycle battery, it lasts 4 days before charge...there is a melted wire that i believe went to the voltage regulator and im afraid to try and reattach it and possibly causing more problems but now that i have more info i might try to fix it up more...if i can now find parts! lol...thanks again for the manual!!!!
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:07 PM   #8
BrewCityMusic
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

bad accel switch - it's a microswitch under the pedal (access from under cart) - that's where I would start (no pun intended, LOL )
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:28 AM   #9
Robey
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

Thanks for the response regarding the micro switch. This was replaced in the beginning of my project, so that turned out to be working just fine. I did find my issue tho, and thought my oversight might help someone in the future. When I finally got the engine to turn over, it continued cranking, and wouldn't stop unless I disconnected the battery. I did this work with the engine out of the cart, and engine removed from it's mounts. I finally realized that my ground was insufficient at the solenoid, causing it to stay engaged. I hooked up a solid ground, and the solenoid switched on and off using the micro switch. So, I guess the moral here is the old KISS method...Keep It Simple Stupid I hope this helps. Always check your ground wires for corrosion/rust before assuming that some major component failed. Ground cables are a cheap test (I used my trucks jumper cables).
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:44 AM   #10
Robey
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Default Re: Internal Starter/Generator Problem

Melted wires usually=a short somewhere. Trace the melted wire, see if there is any bare wire to metal contact, if so, chances are you might be able to replace the wire, and have no issue. Another thought goes back to my post about proper grounding. I have had voltage regulators burnout and melt wires because the ground wire was bad. I would take the time, and replace a few wires, if it melts the wires again, your voltage regulator might need to be replaced. Generally speaking, with electronics, your "hot spot" is usually the point of your problems. Just be cautious, if you replace the bad wire, keep an eye out for excessive heat, smoke, or sparking (never hurts to be prepared to put out a fire) when you apply power to it. If that happens, disconnect the power...your troubles are probably related to the voltage regulator, or an internal generator short. If the new wire stays cool, and your battery keeps its charge...your problem is more than likely solved.
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