crank seal in the clutch and fan side of a G1.

[chuddly]

So here is a quick walk though putting crank seal in the clutch side of a G1.



Step 1. remove the gas tank


Attachment 42603




Step 2. remove the outer clutch cover via the Phillips head screw

Attachment 42604


Step 3. Remove the long bolt holding the outer clutch plate one (7/8" head)Remove the outer clutch plate


Step 4. Remove the drive belt and starter belt.

Attachment 42605





Step 5. Using a clutch puller (can be bought or you can make your own. I bought mine) remove the inner clutch plate/shaft

Attachment 42606




Step 6. Remove the oil pump gear housing and pull BOTH the inner and outer housing off of the engine case

Attachment 42607

Step 7. run a screw into the seal and using a claw hammer pry the old seal out.

Step 8. put the new seal in (put some oil on the part of the seal where it slides on the crank shaft to keep it from catching and tearing).

Step 9. Reinstall everything the way it came off.

Hope this helps



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http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...-fan-side.html





,

[GMB74]

Since the other links are now dead, I thought I would post a tutorial on G1 crankshaft oil seal replacement. Unlike a 4-stroke engine, crankshaft oil seal integrity is critical for a 2-stroke engine to work properly. These engines are now over 20 years old, and the rubber seals have deteriorated. They may allow outside air to leak into the crankcase, resulting in a lean fuel mixture, high combustion temperatures and a siezed piston. They may leak fuel mixture out of the crankcase, resulting in the engine running poorly or not at all. Small leaks can keep the fuel pump from working, since it needs the crankcase pulse from vacuum to pressure to work properly.
This post will deal with replacing the fan side seals. The images are of an engine that has been removed from the buggy and is mounted on an engine stand. Most people will replace the seals with the engine in the buggy. I will post a companion tutorial on replacing the clutch side as well.

[GMB74]

Let's get started.
1) Remove the battery to give access to the fan side of the engine. Disconnect the wires going to the ignition coil and the links going from the carburetor to the exhaust butterfly valve, if so equipped. You do not have to remove the whole link, just unclip the carb end and the exhaust valve end, everything will come off with the fan shroud. Remove the screws holding the fan shroud in place. Some engines may have a deflector bolted over the air intake. Removing the shroud screws will remove it as well. The bottom screw (at about 7:00 in the image) can be difficult to see and access in the buggy.
2) You may need to hold the crankshaft to remove the nut holding the fan and flywheel in place. Pictured are two homemade piston stops that screw into the sparkplug port and hit the piston, keeping the engine from turning. Alternatively, you can set the piston about halfway up the cylinder and feed rope or clothesline into the cylinder through the sparkplug port. The rope will fill the combustion chamber, jam the piston and keep the engine from turning.
3) Remove the big nut in the center of the fan/flywheel. If you have a compressor and an air impact wrench you can zap the nut off. Otherwise jam the piston as described and use a socket and breaker bar.
4) Set up a puller as shown. Pullers can be purchased from Harbor Freight, autoparts stores, and some hardware stores. The three bolts that thread into the flywhell are metric, 8mm. Do not thread them into the flywheel too far and damage the coils underneath, just far enough to fully engage the threads in the flywheel. Tighten the center bolt to put tension on the flywheel and pull it off the crankshaft taper. If the flywheel does not come off, rap on the center bolt of the puller with a hammer. Give it a good smack squarely on the bolt head with a metal hammer to jar the flywheel loose.
5) You should now see the ignition coils, probably caked in dirt. Clean them up and they should look like this. Note that the two mounting screws on this engine at 11:00 and 5:00 have torx heads, indicating this engine has been apart before. Original screws are phillips head. Do not remove them yet.

[GMB74]

1) Before removing the plate holding the coils, make some marks on the plate and crankcase so you can reinstall the plate in exactly the same spot. Moving the plate changes your ignition timing. We want it back exactly as it was. Scratch a line, use paint or a magic marker to make witness marks.
2) Now remove the two screws holding the coil plate to the crankcase. Unplug the four wires going into the back side of the fan housing, and pop out the grommet. Feed the wires through the hole as you remove the coil plate.
3) Here is the seal. It probably doesn't look quite like this one, as this is the new seal already installed. The old seal is likely to be ripped and have pieces hanging out of it.
4) Carefully drill a small hole through the seal and screw a small sheet metal screw into the hole as shown. Be careful not to go too deep when drilling. Just drill through the seal and stop as soon as your drill bit drops through. You do not want to hit the bearing under the seal. There is a space between the seal and bearing, just don't be bearing down so hard you fall through into the bearing. Grab the head of the screw with visegrips or a small prybar and pop the seal out.
5) Clean everything up and inspect the bearing. It should look something like this. Squirt a little oil on the bearing to prelube it, put oil or vaseline on the sealing lips of your new seal. Tap the seal in place until it looks like the seal in the third image. Reassemble in reverse order. Torque the flywheel nut to 53 ft-lbs.



http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...yamaha-g1.html

[reson4]

Originally Posted by GMB74

1) Before removing the plate holding the coils, make some marks on the plate and crankcase so you can reinstall the plate in exactly the same spot. Moving the plate changes your ignition timing. We want it back exactly as it was. Scratch a line, use paint or a magic marker to make witness marks.
2) Now remove the two screws holding the coil plate to the crankcase. Unplug the four wires going into the back side of the fan housing, and pop out the grommet. Feed the wires through the hole as you remove the coil plate.
3) Here is the seal. It probably doesn't look quite like this one, as this is the new seal already installed. The old seal is likely to be ripped and have pieces hanging out of it.
4) Carefully drill a small hole through the seal and screw a small sheet metal screw into the hole as shown. Be careful not to go too deep when drilling. Just drill through the seal and stop as soon as your drill bit drops through. You do not want to hit the bearing under the seal. There is a space between the seal and bearing, just don't be bearing down so hard you fall through into the bearing. Grab the head of the screw with visegrips or a small prybar and pop the seal out.
5) Clean everything up and inspect the bearing. It should look something like this. Squirt a little oil on the bearing to prelube it, put oil or vaseline on the sealing lips of your new seal. Tap the seal in place until it looks like the seal in the third image. Reassemble in reverse order. Torque the flywheel nut to 53 ft-lbs.



http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...yamaha-g1.html

Anyone got a clutch puller for a G1 I can beg borrow or buy? Thanks

Sent from my XT1609 using Tapatalk

[Jeffreyd]

I recently changed both seals in my G1 and had to buy a new drive clutch, I installed the new one and righted it down to recommended torque and as soon i I started it up the bolt turned it self loose and the clutch started to fall off

[griffo002]

Thx for posting...I have just order these seals...this thread will help a lot...cheers.

[griffo002]

Whats the trick for undoing the two screws holding the coil plate on???
I can't budge them with impact driver...Help.
Griff.

[JerEazy]

Put a screwdriver into them - give it a good tap on the back and then try with that impact again.

Still a no-go then hit em with some PB blaster and wait. You don’t want those getting all nozzed up.

Worst case you can grab the head with some vice grips to turn them out and replace the screws

[griffo002]

Thx JerEasy....worked a treat.
I owe you a beer.