09-06-2011, 04:36 PM | #1 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmington, MN
Posts: 83
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Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
Figured I should consolidate all the different threads I've either started or contributed to in regards to the build I am doing. So i apologize if anything is redundant from other posts. At the very least, i have lots of pictures!
My cart: 1986 Club Car DS - no stock engine, came with both clutches, and a starter generator. Engine: Duromax 16hp from maxtools.com Things I have done to the build as of now: -Jakes 6'' lift kit -22 x 11 knobby tires -2'' hub spacers -Cut crankshaft of Duromax and installed stock clutch using CPP's clutch adapter -Using a stock precedent muffler bought from Ebay, I had the flange fabbed and welded to fit onto the Duromax motor Things i have to do still: -Have motor mount planned out, awaiting part -Mount Motor w/ belt -Fab mount for Starter generator -Reroute Electrical box / reroute throttle rod -Fab choke and throttle linkage running to motor -Drill hole in valve cover (think thats what it is called) and install 1/4'' barb fitting -Install B&S pulse fuel pump (getting pulse from engine) -Run electrical wiring -Build Bench seat - Have foam, and seat covers in route Picture descriptions: First couple are of my cart when I pick'ed her up for 175 bucks. Last two are of the body kit I picked up for dirt cheap from a guy off Craigslist. |
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09-06-2011, 04:54 PM | #2 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmington, MN
Posts: 83
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
Picture descriptions:
Jake's 6'' Lift kit - One thing to note when installing, be sure to have your Driven clutch on the Transaxle beforehand. Otherwise you'll be like me and have to take it apart just to get the clutch back on. I also put screw on 2'' wheel spacers to increase my stability. |
09-06-2011, 05:02 PM | #3 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmington, MN
Posts: 83
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
Picture descriptions:
Here is pics of a stock CC Precedent muffler I found on Ebay for $125 bucks. I had a friend do the welding. He had to fab a new flange and then adjust the way the muffler would sit by cutting and re welding the tubing. He also removed the old brace and installed a new one for better support. With the stock Duromax air intake and this muffler, the engine runs like a champ! It is alot more quiet then I was expecting and it does not hesitate or backfire when giving it a good rev. |
09-06-2011, 05:08 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bowling Green, VA
Posts: 157
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
Good stuff Gilby! Expect some PM's as my stuff is in the mail for my build ;)
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09-06-2011, 05:13 PM | #5 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmington, MN
Posts: 83
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
Picture descriptions:
Cutting of the Crank! Man that was a pain to drill and tap. Used a 21/64 (i think) bit because we could not find a size "Q" at the local hardware store. Tapped with a 3/8th-24 tap. For the clutch we had to end up taking off the spacer that comes with the clutch adapter and putting the adapter as far onto the crank as we could. Drilled pretty much until we got to the end of the 1" portion of the crank. We then cut off about an inch and tapped as far as we could giving us something to thread off of. Then made the final cut and tapped the rest out. (Yes, i know the clutch looks like crap, but i took it apart and gave it a once over with brake cleaner and a brass brush.... it should be just fine *crosses fingers*) This is what I have come up with for mounting my Starter/Generator, just used a flat bar, drilled two holes that lined up with holes on the motor. I plan to attach the Starter/Generator mounting bracket once I line it up with the clutch. |
09-06-2011, 07:13 PM | #6 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmington, MN
Posts: 83
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
Picture Descriptions:
These pics contain my proposed motor mount setup. In the first pic I drafted a Paint picture depicting what i intend to do. It uses a channel type metal bar called "Unistrut", my buddy who came over works construction and acquired them from a job. They will kind of act as a rail which we can make adjustments then secure down easily with a rectangle nut on the inside. This will make the motor mount much higher than expected but still gives atleast 2 inches of leeway from the highest part of the motor and the bottom of the seat. As far as adjusting for belt tension, our holes on the bottom longer bars that the rubber motor mounts connect through are drilled double wide like (____) to allow for the top bars to be slid to the appropriate spots forward or backwards. And then for the top bars, the motor will be bolted in via the channel with the rectangular nut which can be moved left or right down the channel for lining up the clutches. The rectangular nuts have teeth on the areas where they would touch the channel rims allowing for a good grip and less chance of slipping. | X O X | The plan is to bolt it all together with the motor on, leaving the rubber motor mount bolts a little loose, we adjust the tension on the belt, then using a sharpie, make a line across the bottom bar marking the position of the top bar. Take the motor off, tighten the rubber motor mount bolts into place locking that top bar into place, put motor back on and it should be good to go. |
09-07-2011, 11:03 AM | #7 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmington, MN
Posts: 83
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
Picture Descriptions:
I am dead-set on keeping the pedal start capability intact, but as of right now there is no room at all for the box in its original spot due to the motor taking up space. So to do this, i am going to mount the electrical box on the opposite side. This is going to create a different issue in regards to the throttle rod which hooks up to the throttle linkage inside the electrical box which will trigger the micro switches (mine are missing) to start / kill the engine. Looking at the first picture, you can see the two holes drilled on the left, i am going to basically do the same on the passenger side. One to route the throttle rod through, and the other to route the ignition wiring through. The rod has alot of play in it running from the gas pedal so it should be fairly easy to run it through a hole on the passenger side. I will however need to add a threaded rod extension so the bolt at the end of the rod can reach its hole in the electrical box. I figure a female/female coupler with an extra piece of threaded rod should do the trick. Lastly, is just a pic of my Briggs & Stratton pulse fuel pump. I am toying with the idea of just putting it right on the electrical box cover, since that will not only be close to the fuel tank but also somewhat level with the valve cover that the pulse is coming from. (Swear I remember reading somewhere that its best to have it level with the pulse line?) |
09-07-2011, 11:11 AM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Bowling Green, VA
Posts: 157
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
I've heard that too...as it would have to pull more if the pulse line was below the cover. I can also never get a straight answer on "Closer to fuel source or pulse?" I've read both.
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09-07-2011, 11:22 AM | #9 |
Younger Than Dirt
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: North Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 2,047
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
You want the pump higher than the pulse fitting in the valve cover with a dip in the pulse line so oil won't get to fuel pump.hookm
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09-07-2011, 12:38 PM | #10 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmington, MN
Posts: 83
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Re: Gilby's Club Car & Duromax 16hp Build
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