2000 club car won't run

[rtclopez]

Thanks for the info I'll try that to see if it works.

[Sergio]

That is even more proof the issue is with the OBC.

When you disconnect the pack negative, the capacitors on the controller are still charged and they will keep discharging for a couple of minutes, providing power to the OBC.

To reset the OBC, You need to leave the pack negative disconnected for more than 10 minutes.

When You remove the wires from the "N" terminal, the OBC goes down immediately since it has no power from the pack or from the controller's capacitors.

[rtclopez]

Hello I'm back again, still working on this cart. I bypassed the OBC with the yellow wire it seemed to be working fine for about 20 minuets until I went over a small bump spun the tires a bit and the the cart stopped working then I smelled electrical burnt smell. I turn the key on and off and now no clicking of the solenoid, so for the cheapest fix I thought I would replace the solenoid but that didn't work. I went back to the service manual that you sent me and ran some more diagnostics and it looks like its the controller. what controller would you recommend for this cart, I believe its a 1996 regan 1 with the black controller.

[joesam]

It's been a while! If the tests in the manual have determined a failed controller (even more likely since you said you "let-the-smoke-out-of-it") - then I'm pretty sure you've got only two options.

Option 1 - Replace the black controller with the standard Regen 1 replacement unit (there's only one that I know of) - its made by GE and has an adapter cable included so that it fits your existing wire harness / plug. Its made by GE and is available from one or more of this site's sponsors (somewhere in the $500 range, I think).

Option 2 - Morph your cart to a more modern and flexible IQ type. To do so will require that you:

• Change out your wiring harness to IQ type

• Add a tow/run switch

• Install a Pre-MCOR to MCOR throttle kit

• Buy a standard or upgraded (many hi-performance ones available) IQ controller

If you choose option 2 - you would be wise (beyond your years) to speak with & order the conversion "kit" from David...he's one of very few people who can ensure you will have all the right parts and enough support & information to perform the upgrade. Conversion will add many more years of usefulness to your cart and give you access to performance boost(s) that are unavailable in its current configuration. He's at: http://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/

[rtclopez]

Thanks for you input,it's been a lot of help.

[rtclopez]

Ok I'm back again, I Bought the GE 500 amp controller. I installed the controller only to find out the car will only go a few mph so I called the place I bought the controller (Buggies unlimited) we went through the hole electrical system. The motor is only getting 14 volt from the controller the tech said that it went in to safe mode so we checked the potentiometer and the ohms reading was kinda weird he said that is why the controller is in safe mode so I purchased the upgrade for my cart. I installed the MCOR4 kit today and there is no change the cart only goes real slow. I think they sent me a bad controller what do u think.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by rtclopez

Ok I'm back again, I Bought the GE 500 amp controller. I installed the controller only to find out the car will only go a few mph so I called the place I bought the controller (Buggies unlimited) we went through the hole electrical system. The motor is only getting 14 volt from the controller the tech said that it went in to safe mode so we checked the potentiometer and the ohms reading was kinda weird he said that is why the controller is in safe mode so I purchased the upgrade for my cart. I installed the MCOR4 kit today and there is no change the cart only goes real slow. I think they sent me a bad controller what do u think.

This is why we normally convert Regen 1 systems to IQ systems before we upgrade. They're a golf car mechanic's worst nightmare. I'd contact buggies unlimited and see if they have any sort of technical support team that can help you with the diagnosis of their controller. What's the model number of it? I'll try my best, but I've never upgraded a regen 1 car, so I may not be much help.

[rtclopez]

Controller, 500 Amp GE For CC Regen 1

Item #:574
Retail Price:$873.51
Our Price:$498.99 (You Save: 43%)
The guy in tech support seemed to no the system pretty good and was patient with me. The controller I took out was definitely bad I took it apart and there was some smoked wires.I've pretty much checked the whole system thats why I'm thinking the new controller is faulty

[Sergio]

The motor is only getting 14 volt from the controller the tech said that it went in to safe mode so we checked the potentiometer and the ohms reading was kinda weird he said

If You can provide more details about those comments, it will help not duplicate troubleshooting efforts.

Where and how exactly was the motor voltage checked?

Where and how was the potentiometer checked, and what does "weird" means in this context?

One wild guess, but if the DB solenoid is not engaging, the cart would be really slow and a voltage reading taken at the Motor A1 and A2 terminals would reflect the voltage drop across the DB solenoid.

[rtclopez]

Thanks for your response. The potentiometer was tested at the three wire female conection w/ a ohm reading from about 1.2 to about 6.4 but it would jump to 14 all of the readings were while pressing down the peddle slowly. I now have the new one installed and it reads .30 to 5.30 when pressing down the peddle. The motor was tested with the cart jacked up my volt meter leads on a1 and a2 as I pressed the peddle down the volts went up to 12.5 and that was with the peddle all the way to the floor. I checked both solenoids with the key switch on and I'm getting 48.1 volts with the key off I'm getting 0