2014 Precedent Roadster Build

[SKD]

Latest build was an unplanned event, local golf course was flooded last spring putting all the carts under water. Received a call from a friend first week in January who learned the course settled their insurance claim and were selling the once flooded 2014 Precedents for $325. Needless to say we headed down, by mid afternoon the place was a zoo but we managed to pick up some carts.

Having built a few lifted carts over the past couple of years I wanted to do a street cart for cruising around the neighborhood. After reading up on scooterman's roadster build I decided it was time to go topless.

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[SKD]

The initial plan was to build a street cart capable of mid 30's mph along with brakes that could stop it. Previous builds were based on Altrax controllers and either Admiral or D&D motors, for this one I wanted to go with Plum Quick.

First step though was to strip the cart down followed by a good power washing.

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[SKD]

Next few weeks spent ordering/receiving/installing parts. So far the cart has had the following:

Motor: Plum Quick Executioner
Controller: Curtis 1268-5504, 2-Mode
Cables: 2 Gauge
Batteries: US 8VHATB XC2
12x7 SS Rims w/ LSI Elite 215/35-12 tires
Jakes Hydraulic Disc Brake's - Front
Ausco Mechanical Disc Brakes - Rear (From ScottyB)
ExRay Speedometer
Windshield & Rollbar from Eagle Custom Carts
Carbon Fiber Dash
LED Headlight/Tailights, Signals
Kenwood Bluetooth Amp / Polk 6-1/2" Slim Mount Speakers
Aux Battery (U-1) for Stereo and Lights

Open Items:
Shocks / Front Suspension Mods

Max speed: 31mph so far, continuing to break in batteries and motor before making changes.

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[Aflyer]

Wow, talk about being in the right place at the right time.

That is a great score, can't wait to see your build.

I guess I needed to be more patient.

[2016CTD]

Nice build. Have you changed the rear differential fluid?

[SKD]

Rear diff fluid was drained, replaced with Royal Purple SAE 30. Pulled the fill plug on the diff when I got the cart home to see if water had made it into through the vent, it wasn't over full and didn't seem to have any water in it.

Ausco brake installation required pulling the rear axles so I drained the diff fluid before diving into the brakes.

[2016CTD]

[Mooncarter]

Nice!

[55BigBlock]

I noticed you have a mechanical disc brake conversion on the rear and a hydraulic on the front. I am curious how they match up. How did you control the bias front to rear? Could you elaborate on this.

[SKD]

So far the setup on the brakes, front to back, has been more by feel. The cart brakes evenly however I assume I'll continue to make adjustments as I clock more hours on the cart. Bias is basically set through the position of the aluminum adapter supplied with the front brake kit that ties in the master cylinder.

Front hydraulics were installed first, cables for the mechanical rear brakes not connected during bleeding of the brakes to ensure I'd get full pedal travel. Once the fronts were bled I disconnected the pin that attached the aluminum adapter to the master cylinder clevis so the tension on the rear brakes could be adjusted. A spacer was added to on the tensioning bolt between the head of the bolt and cable bracket to take up excess slack in the bolt.

The aluminum adapter supplied with the front brake kit to tie the master cylinder in is drilled through for most of the length but is tapped on the end facing the front of the cart to match the original cable tension bolt. Once the rear cables tensioned, one has to rotate the aluminum adapter around the tension bolt until the tang of the adapter is aligned with the clevis on the master cylinder. From there the cross pin can be reinstalled so that the hydraulic and mechanical systems are tied together.

Based on the initial installation I believe the setup would be easier if a fully threaded capscrew were used for tensioning of the rear. This would allow the aluminum adapter to be drilled through all the way, jam nuts used on both ends to locate/position it. As it stands now, to increase front brake engagement one needs to drop the pin on the master cylinder clevis then spin the aluminum adapter around the tension bolt to make the adjustment.

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