GXT 804 - Questions about tuneup and Manual

[Col. Mustard]

Hey all, This is my first post (other than introduction post). I'm new to working on vehicles in general. So please don't laugh at my questions too much!

I just got a 1994 EZ-GO GXT 804 cart with dump bed that hasn't been crunk in over a year. So I'm cleaning it out, and I'm about to start on a basic tune-up with new oil, plugs, air filter, and fuel filter. I have a few simple questions to start off.

4 easy questions to begin with:

1) Where does the fuel filter go? My tune-up kit comes with a fuel filter that looks a lot like the one I use on my riding lawnmower. But I can't find anything that looks like it installed on my cart in any obvious place. There's a hose going from the top of the gas tank straight into the metal thing that's mounted above the key ignition. Shouldn't the fuel filter go between the tank and the metal thing?

2) Is there an easy way to take the fuel tank out of the cart for cleaning? I moved the clamp off the hose that's connected to the top of the fuel tank...but I just can't pull the hose off of the fuel tank. Am I just not pulling hard enough on it? Can i just unscrew the little plastic bolt that the hose is clamped to on top of the tank?

3) I noticed that there's some oil in the air box where the air filter was. The filter itself has a good bit of oil on it too. What causes this, and what's the best way to clean the oil out of the airbox?

4) Does anyone know where I can get a service manual or any decent info on the GXT 804? Can't seem to find any info that's specifically for my cart.

[Col. Mustard]

I neglected to mention that it's a 4 cycle Robin 295cc engine.

Supposedly the GXT 804 is basically a Marathon with a utility bed and different body material. Is that true?

I'll post pics of my actual cart when I can find my digital card reader for my sd card. For now, I'm attaching a pic of a Workhorse cart that I found in this forum - It looks similar to mine.

[Quadmaster]

I'm not an GXT 804 cart guy but I can start with the common stuff.

1.Yes the fuel filter should go in the line from the top of the tank, that goes to the fuel pump ( metal thing above ignition switch )

2.You can get it out that way, but be careful cause that fitting is plastic also and you can break it. You can take a razor blade or knife and gently cut the line from the fitting. If the line is cracked at all Replace it. It will leave you stranded later.
From there it should just unbolt and come out.

3.Clean it out with clean rags or towels and some brake parts cleaner. If it's more stubborn than that, then use carb cleaner. ( Wear safety glasses ) either of these two products will cause serious pain if it gets into your eyes and a possible trip to the Hosp.

The oil itself comes from the breather line that is connected to the bottom of the air box. Normally from the crank case being overfilled. But it can be from other things.
Is the cart lifted ???? It should take 1 1/2 qts of oil.

That should get you started. #4 I can't help with but i would suggest looking in Gas EZ - Go tech.

[Col. Mustard]

Originally Posted by Quadmaster

I'm not an GXT 804 cart guy but I can start with the common stuff.

1.Yes the fuel filter should go in the line from the top of the tank, that goes to the fuel pump ( metal thing above ignition switch )

2.You can get it out that way, but be careful cause that fitting is plastic also and you can break it. You can take a razor blade or knife and gently cut the line from the fitting. If the line is cracked at all Replace it. It will leave you stranded later.
From there it should just unbolt and come out.

3.Clean it out with clean rags or towels and some brake parts cleaner. If it's more stubborn than that, then use carb cleaner. ( Wear safety glasses ) either of these two products will cause serious pain if it gets into your eyes and a possible trip to the Hosp.

The oil itself comes from the breather line that is connected to the bottom of the air box. Normally from the crank case being overfilled. But it can be from other things.
Is the cart lifted ???? It should take 1 1/2 qts of oil.

That should get you started. #4 I can't help with but i would suggest looking in Gas EZ - Go tech.

Thanks for your response! No, the cart is not lifted yet. Would it be ok to clean the oil out of the air box with goop de-greaser? One of the latches on the air box lid is broke...so it's not completely closed. Can that be a problem?

I have no fuel filter installed on my cart apparently. It's just a hose going directly from the top of the fuel tank to the metal fuel pump. So I need to just go ahead and cut that hose an install the fuel filter inline? Since I'm cutting the hose anyway, that's a good time to remove the gas tank for cleaning?

[Quadmaster]

If you get goop in the motor it will not be a good thing. So I would not use it.The latch is not a big thing as long as the filter is in place and air can't get by it.

I would cut the hose off from the tank and fuel pump if necessary and replace it. Installing the filter in line when I did this.

YES while the line is off REMOVE the tank and clean it thoroughly. Then start replacing it all.

You should adjust the valves before you ever try to start it. There is a sticky in the EZ GO gas section " tech " that explains step by step how to do this.

[Col. Mustard]

Thanks for all the info and advice Quadmaster! I'm off to do some research on adjusting the valves. I've never done much mechanical work. I'll be lucky if I can correctly gap the spark plugs. So hopefully valve adjustment will not be completely over my head

[ruredy]

That's one of my carts I use it as a scarecrow to warn other carts of the perils they may face if they enter my shop



The oil in the breather might be from blow-by or being overfilled. The breather should be sealed off, it should be easy to find a used lid/box. Ezgo had a recall where bunches of txt models had those boxes replaced with a different type, the dealers usually have a lot of them laying around.

The pick up tube in the fuel tank does un-screw and you can remove it.

I use bits a pieces from the other manuals for the info I need on them. engines and such are the same as are lots of the stuff. If you need a manual any of the sites sponsors should be able to hook you up.

Valve adjustment is real easy. Make sure cam lobe is facing down on the valve your adjusting, loosen nut, screw in adjuster till it just touches the cam, back off 1/4 of a turn and lock it down. repeat on next valve. I never use a feeler gage, it's a PIA to get one in there but you have to make sure the adjuster just barely hardly touches the cam before backing off. It's easy to go past that point cause the springs are pretty light and don't offer much resistance.

[Col. Mustard]

Originally Posted by ruredy

That's one of my carts I use it as a scarecrow to warn other carts of the perils they may face if they enter my shop

The oil in the breather might be from blow-by or being overfilled. The breather should be sealed off, it should be easy to find a used lid/box. Ezgo had a recall where bunches of txt models had those boxes replaced with a different type, the dealers usually have a lot of them laying around.

The pick up tube in the fuel tank does un-screw and you can remove it.

I use bits a pieces from the other manuals for the info I need on them. engines and such are the same as are lots of the stuff. If you need a manual any of the sites sponsors should be able to hook you up.

Valve adjustment is real easy. Make sure cam lobe is facing down on the valve your adjusting, loosen nut, screw in adjuster till it just touches the cam, back off 1/4 of a turn and lock it down. repeat on next valve. I never use a feeler gage, it's a PIA to get one in there but you have to make sure the adjuster just barely hardly touches the cam before backing off. It's easy to go past that point cause the springs are pretty light and don't offer much resistance.

Ruredy arrived! The Guru has spoken That's funny about using that cart as a scarecrow.

The Valve adjustment sounds pretty easy. The two main problems I can see myself having are 1) My dump bed has been screwed/mounted/possibly welded to the body, so I'm not sure about the ease of access I will have to the valves. 2) Alot of the bolts and screws are too corroded for me to unscrew without stripping bolts. Would it be bad to use that "Buster" rust inhibiting spray anywhere near the engine?

** Slightly off topic: Does anyone know the best place to buy a front cowl/bumper with lights for my cart? Should I just look for a pre 1994.5 Marathon front cowl? I've seen a few kits for around $200, but there's no mounting instructions online that I can find. They come with turn signals, but I don't think they come with a turn signal switch or any wiring. Am I correct? How do I mount it on, and do they include all the hardware for that? Is there a place that may have some used front cowls? I've seen a used section on some retail sites, but they barely ever have much in those sections.

[ruredy]

I know this is going to sound kinda "out there" but when it comes to badly rusted bolts I usually tighten them up until they break. I find it's quicker and works better than getting them half way loose AND then having them break or having to cut-em. I doubt the "buster" stuff will hurt anything there. If your bed is like mine it should only have 2 places (under the back of the seat) were it bolted with little brackets. undo those and it should be dump ready, I put a linear actuator on that cart and made it a power dump.
Mounting those cowls are kinda a b*tch, you have to take the cup holder, dash center support, and that plastic tray (stuffed up in there) out before you can get to the bolts.

[Col. Mustard]

Originally Posted by ruredy

I know this is going to sound kinda "out there" but when it comes to badly rusted bolts I usually tighten them up until they break. I find it's quicker and works better than getting them half way loose AND then having them break or having to cut-em. I doubt the "buster" stuff will hurt anything there. If your bed is like mine it should only have 2 places (under the back of the seat) were it bolted with little brackets. undo those and it should be dump ready, I put a linear actuator on that cart and made it a power dump.
Mounting those cowls are kinda a b*tch, you have to take the cup holder, dash center support, and that plastic tray (stuffed up in there) out before you can get to the bolts.

Yeah, I had to cut the 2 bolts that attach the tailgate to the bed. They were loose, hanging, and rusted. The Buster stuff didn't work on them, so I hacked them off. Now that you mention tightening rusted bolts- I remember hearing that before.

When I undo the bolts to make the bed dump-ready...I need to put the bolts back in before driving the cart, correct? That's a reason to get the actuator...so you don't have to mess with that? And it's easier to use?

One thing I'm not sure about is the fact that when I put the roll cage back on the cart, I will not be able to use the dump bed without taking the roll cage back off. It mounts to the bed - I'm guessing it didn't come from the factory that way. The roll cage looks home-welded now that I think about it. I do want a roof for sun blockage during the summer, and that's where I'm mounting the stereo.

About the missing cowl - There are some bolts on the front that are just hanging there. I tried removing them but quickly determined that I would need to remove the dash to get to them. I'm guessing those are for the cowl? How do you keep the nut in place when screwing the bolts through the dash? Wouldn't the cowl block you from being able to hold the nut with one hand while screwing the bolt with the other? I must be missing something.

Taking the dash/console off - how do I remove those screw-like dowels to get the dash off? Just pry them out with a flat head screw driver?