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Old 07-11-2019, 08:33 AM   #51
wendy
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Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 29
Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Hi guys
I got the module for the 1974 Chev C-10 pick up 350 as suggested. Viola! I knew it was the igniter. How I kept getting bad ones is a mystery to me. I saw in a post that the cheap ones are junk, so I bought one from a reputable dealer. For a lot... It showed the classic signs of a bad igniter, i.e., one spark as the pedal was depressed, one as the pedal was released. The supplier was quite nice and sent out a replacement right away, which did not work either. The supplier said they have NEVER had a problem with these before. I took him at his word and assumed something else was wrong. Not. So onward and upward in the never-ending chase of my issue. I decided that before I embarked on building my own, I would gamble $12.00 on the unit for a 1974 Chevrolet C-10 350, which was suggested in another post. It fired right up! However, it will not rev very high, runs like crud as did the previous event with the igniter unit from the other day. Switching the impulse coil makes no difference. Nor did switching the leads to the ignition coil. The ignition coil is a dual tower unit from a later model Buick. Maybe it needs higher voltage. My next step of course is to put the stock coil back on, but it got too hot to keep working this morning (Florida. Thunderstorm last night, the humidity once the sun comes up is unbearable.) If I have success with this at some point in time, I hope this experience will help some other poor slob with this issue. And thanks to all of you with the patience to offer suggestions.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:03 AM   #52
wendy
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Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 29
Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

****, I just lost my last post. I should have copied it.
I found another pile of igniter units and quite by accident I found one that works.
Maybe all of them but the original work.
Hopefully this this is the end of the saga.
My accident was switching the power wire. The power wire is a slightly more an orange shade than red; you have to look closely. None of the connectors on the ignition units I purchased would fit my wiring harness-I think that this commander was put together with pieces and parts as it originally came from a golf course mechanic. So I had to cut the harness and connector (actually I used my connector disassembler to pull out the leads. Tedious to say the least) and fastened shielded spade lugs as connectors. I took copious pictures of everything but did not notice the slightly more orange tint of the power wire. Not to mention that the wiring harness in this commander wasn't the same as the factory harness. Lord only knows it's origin.
I did get this to run a while back but it would soon quit as if something were overheating. After a few minutes it would run again for a short period of time and finally gave up the ghost. I will be driving around the barnyard for a while until I am confident it will not perform in that manner once more. I won't have to push it far if it quits!
I did install the new factory coil which seemed to help immensely. With the exception of the relay I installed to take all the load from the 18 gauge blue wire coming from the ignition switch and replacing all the ignition system wiring with 14 gauge (and grounding everything in sight) and using a relay to take the load from the blue 18 gauge wire from the ignition switch it is basically stock once more.
I still have the HEI unit which may work better with the stock coil. I hope it doesn't come to that, but I am ready.
I researched CDI and MSD ignitions and in one case (I don't remember which) one provides approximately 300 volts to the coil. Maybe that is why my Buick coil didn't work well.
Hopefully this is the end of my saga.
Many thanks to all who helped, especially Trig123 for the support and urging to not quit.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:08 AM   #53
wendy
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Posts: 29
Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Incidentally, I have not yet checked the voltage regulator to see if it may be overloading the igniter box.
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:14 AM   #54
trig123
Vintage tech
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South
Posts: 3,210
Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Quote:
Originally Posted by wendy View Post
****, I just lost my last post. I should have copied it.
I found another pile of igniter units and quite by accident I found one that works.
Maybe all of them but the original work.
Hopefully this this is the end of the saga.
My accident was switching the power wire. The power wire is a slightly more an orange shade than red; you have to look closely. None of the connectors on the ignition units I purchased would fit my wiring harness-I think that this commander was put together with pieces and parts as it originally came from a golf course mechanic. So I had to cut the harness and connector (actually I used my connector disassembler to pull out the leads. Tedious to say the least) and fastened shielded spade lugs as connectors. I took copious pictures of everything but did not notice the slightly more orange tint of the power wire. Not to mention that the wiring harness in this commander wasn't the same as the factory harness. Lord only knows it's origin.
I did get this to run a while back but it would soon quit as if something were overheating. After a few minutes it would run again for a short period of time and finally gave up the ghost. I will be driving around the barnyard for a while until I am confident it will not perform in that manner once more. I won't have to push it far if it quits!
I did install the new factory coil which seemed to help immensely. With the exception of the relay I installed to take all the load from the 18 gauge blue wire coming from the ignition switch and replacing all the ignition system wiring with 14 gauge (and grounding everything in sight) and using a relay to take the load from the blue 18 gauge wire from the ignition switch it is basically stock once more.
I still have the HEI unit which may work better with the stock coil. I hope it doesn't come to that, but I am ready.
I researched CDI and MSD ignitions and in one case (I don't remember which) one provides approximately 300 volts to the coil. Maybe that is why my Buick coil didn't work well.
Hopefully this is the end of my saga.
Many thanks to all who helped, especially Trig123 for the support and urging to not quit.
Glad you were able to get it going. Get out and enjoy it now.
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:36 PM   #55
Salgantry
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 4
Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Having the same issue with a 350 robin. I have a question for you guys, on my pulsar coil I get 513.5 ohms which is within spec but I get zero voltage out of it.
How is that possible?
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Old 07-13-2019, 11:04 AM   #56
trig123
Vintage tech
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: South
Posts: 3,210
Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

You got your meter set to the lowest scale on AC voltage ? Spin it over and check again and make sure you got the setting on DVOM correct. You should see 1/2 volt
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Old 07-26-2019, 07:09 AM   #57
GLENN COOPER
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E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: NEWNAN GA
Posts: 9
Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

I recently went through the same issue with my 2001 cart. I purchased several ignitors and pulsar coils and the same thing showed up after countless hours of testing. I was told to purchase only OEM parts if you want the cart to run. After trying all of so call aftermarket parts I decided to go ahead and order the OEM parts from the TXT EZGO manufacture company. To my surprise the OEM parts solved the problem. I think all of these so call companies that supply the electronic parts for these carts should learn how to produce the correct products to sell, so the people will not spend countless hours working on these carts. Just my 2 cents worth. Happy carting!!!!!!!
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Old 07-26-2019, 07:27 AM   #58
CP241
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,625
Default Re: 295 robin pulsar coil question

Quote:
Originally Posted by GLENN COOPER View Post
I recently went through the same issue with my 2001 cart. I purchased several ignitors and pulsar coils and the same thing showed up after countless hours of testing. I was told to purchase only OEM parts if you want the cart to run. After trying all of so call aftermarket parts I decided to go ahead and order the OEM parts from the TXT EZGO manufacture company. To my surprise the OEM parts solved the problem. I think all of these so call companies that supply the electronic parts for these carts should learn how to produce the correct products to sell, so the people will not spend countless hours working on these carts. Just my 2 cents worth. Happy carting!!!!!!!


The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

- Benjamin Franklin
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