96 CC 48v Motor guide ring???

[Golfdog]

Its all very much easier with the rear body removed (takes 15 mins). You can then remove and refit the motor by hand.

[GeraldW]

thanks for the tip Golfdog. I didn't think of that. I did wonder about removing the axle on the wheels complete with motor; just a matter of disconnecting the motor leads and the brake and suspension connections.

[GeraldW]

Hmmmm; looking at how to remove the rear body (Golfdog suggestion) and I can't see how to do this. Can you point me to the steps to take please? thanks

[Fishing Dude]

Bolts in bagwell, screws on front at heel kick plate, f-n-r lever lift off

[Golfdog]

Originally Posted by GeraldW

Hmmmm; looking at how to remove the rear body (Golfdog suggestion) and I can't see how to do this. Can you point me to the steps to take please? thanks

As fishing dude says plus 6 bolts holding the backrests and roof supports, also if you want to remove the body completely rather than just tilting it up you will need to disconnect the charger recepticle The bolts in the bagwell are under the bagwell lining. The lining is held on with Xmas tree plugs. Just lift the lining and they will pop out.

[GeraldW]

thanks a bunch - I am so grateful I found this site - awesome help
Gerald

[GeraldW]

thanks to all who provided helpful suggestions with this problem. Happy to report it is all sorted out. I got a new ring, took the rear body off, replaced the ring by drilling out the old one, fitting the new one in with gasket cement, waited 24 hour then a little MolyKote G on the female splines of the armature. I then rigged a tie down strap round the motor and with a 2X4 resting on the upper frame to take the weight of the motor (my wife operated that bit) while I guided the motor onto the splines of the transmission shaft. It only took five minutes to put it back in. And it worked, noise gone - well for now at least. So thanks everyone

[golfwinner]

Great information, can you tell me what kind of adhesive you used?

Originally Posted by dcannow

Gerald-Lining up the ring isn't that big of a problem without a guide shaft if you just take a little time. I have now replaced 3 of them by removing old ring (note retainer lock ring to be removed) cleaning everything inside motor spline housing and "dry running" new ring inside to practice line-up with small screw driver running up & down the groves to match alignment. Use a good overhead light and you will get the picture. When you see how the ring can be aligned put the cement (I use gasket cement as it gives time to do final alignment) on the ring, slide it in, check alignment with the small screw driver tip up & down the groves and LET DRY for a minimum of 24 hr. then put on the retainer lock ring. You might want to put a coat of all purpose poly grease on the drive shaft prior to replacing motor. Odds are the old ring may be loose enough to pry out, if not It can be cut with a small drill at 2/3 places and collapsed enough to get it out in pieces. THis works for an 80 year old duffer in Spokane WA so should work in New Mex. also!!! Note-Be sure to tag motor cables to identify prior to removal and also disconnect + battery cable

[dcannow]

I have now done 3 of these and have used just plain gasket cement. Be sure and line the groves up perfectly or you will have a problem getting the motor
shaft seated. CLEAN before hand and I suggest a dry-run prior to cementing just to get the feel of aligning the groves . The pros say they can do this in one hour but my best has been one forty five min. (including one beer break. Good luck and report back.