G2 Secondary-Clutch settings

[sho305]

I just put a umax spring in my G9 with a new cut sheave and new spring seat, and spacer (on a clone engine). It shifts nicer for sure though my primary is worn. I set it to B2 and I guess it is a nice all around setting. The engine stays at higher rpm up to around 10mph (with 22s) then it starts to shift some at part throttle. RPM never do drop as much as the stock tired spring did at part throttle. I think I will set it to less preload and see what it does, have a feeling it will still have more rpm at low speeds because it is longer, but shift more at mid to higher speeds than now....which is what I want. I tend to cruise at 10-20mph on some rides and rather it ran lower rpm then. Off road this is ideal rpm is higher but not real high (like stock with tons of preload is), and it shifts more normally at higher speeds. This would have been a great improvement on my stock engine.

At WOT it shifts more at high speed but not sure if it is from my primary being worn. The rpm actually drop a little in the last 1/3 of shifting ratio I would estimate, but not much drop. Shifting is very smooth rpm stay right there.

I was about 32mph it would stop pulling at 5K, 5200 was max. I put HD springs and 1.3 ratio rockers on and it did 34mph gps on my short run but was still pulling. So I took it out on a flat paved road and it did 37.2mph gps it was screaming must have been close to 6K rpm. Could not get my tach on there, will try to soon. Its the fastest that cart has ever gone on its own, swallowed a few bugs doing that run. Sitting there my tires measure 23 tall with the 12-14 lbs pressure I run in the rears.

So I plan to make the preload low as I can so it shifts out more at part throttle. I hope the new spring seat and sheave will react nicely to the engine and shift back quicker. I think the length of this spring will keep your rpm up at low speed no matter what, its thicker and 5 3/8" long. It takes more elbow grease to get it on there for sure. If I only off road trail rode this is working well, but I know cruising this will take more gas and make more noise. We run some logging roads and see a lot of wildlife. IIRC B2 it was just over one ramp of rotation to preload it. I could be wrong the clone will bog a little if I gas it hard and rpm is too low, due to the stock carb on it.

My primary is thin so plan to buy a new unit soon, that might change shifting.

A fully shifted out G2/G9 has about a 11:1 ratio through the cvt and trans.

[pachanga90]

I'm running 22" tires.Big difference in those springs!!

[jdb4557]

So I found the problem. When took out the original engine and put in the clone. I took off the tensioner. I was getting different performance all the time. Everything was shaking and rattling. So I took some ceiling wire and wrapped it around front of the motor mount I made and the tube ahead of it. Twisted the two pairs with a screw driver until they were snug. Instant change. No shaking on take off, good acceleration and speed. I am going to see if I can fab somthing to put the original tensioer back in or make something out of all thread. I lost speed when I put the torque spring in originally. I am going to give it one more try, but I think it will still slow it down. If that's the case I will leave well enough alone. I am using B2 right now with no preload.

[sho305]

Some guys have made them with an eye bolt or welded a heavy washer to a bolt with long threads. I tuned mine with gps I tightened it (better takeoff) until I lost top speed (stock engine 28mph on dirt drive) then backed it off. It took off nice that way. With the clone it still helps because it revs faster on takeoff, as does the wide belt and cut sheave. With all that stuff it does creep now and didn't used to before the new secondary, but not a big deal really.