ezgo 2005 - new batteries, wont go

[tguarino]

I am not quite sure what you mean by check switches with ohm reading. Can you give me an example on one of these that didnt read properly.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by tguarino

Ok,

Got some readings for you...

J1 Pins
1=38.3
3=38.3
4=38.3
5=2.5
7=38.3
8=38.3
9=38.3

The Voltage source for this Pin is the small red wire attached to Battery side big terminal of solenoid. (You can see it in the controller picture I posted)
This is also voltage source for reverse beeper, which isn't as loud as it ought to be, per your statement in the first post in this thread.

Could be the ring terminal not making good connection and there is a connection hidden in the wire harness that might be bad.

Get the voltage correct to Pin-5 and it'll probably work, or we will continue troubleshooting.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by tguarino

I am not quite sure what you mean by check switches with ohm reading. Can you give me an example on one of these that didnt read properly.

Troubleshooting the control switches is pretty easy of a PDS cart because they plug into the controller individually and can be checked just by unplugging the plug measuring continuity between the pins in the plug that they are connected to.

For example the voltage readings on J3 are not correct.

J3 Pins
My wires were in this postion

Ong | Red
----------
Yel | Wht

Ong = 38.3
Red = 2.5
Wht = 2.5
Yel = 38.3

That tells me the Run/Tow switch is in the Tow position (very likely) or that both portions of the switch are bad (not so likely).

After placing Run/Tow into Tow, pull the plug out of J3 on controller.
Attach ohmmeter test leads to pins 1 & 2 in plug. (Red & Yellow wires)
Should read Open (No continuity or very high ohms) with switch in Tow position and Closed or Shorted (Continuity or very low ohms) with switch in Run position.
Repeat for Pins 3 & 4 (White & Orange wires) Open in Tow, Closed in Run.

[tguarino]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The Voltage source for this Pin is the small red wire attached to Battery side big terminal of solenoid. (You can see it in the controller picture I posted)
This is also voltage source for reverse beeper, which isn't as loud as it ought to be, per your statement in the first post in this thread.

Could be the ring terminal not making good connection and there is a connection hidden in the wire harness that might be bad.

Get the voltage correct to Pin-5 and it'll probably work, or we will continue troubleshooting.

Sounds like first, I need to double check my J3 readings, ensuring I am set to RUN.

Also, double check reading for J1-Pin5. If this is still low

I should use my DVM and use RED LEAD on the Solenoid nut attached to the battery, and the BLACK lead to the NEG of the BATTERY PACK?

This should read my full charge (if set in RUN position) Right?

If it doesnt get a full charge read, is it possible its either my Soleniod, or what about the Reed Switch (read about that this morning), is that a possible issue on my cart?

Considering the cart worked last time, its hard to imagine the wiring harness is bad, right? Probably something with solenoid or a connection not hooked back up or similar? Last time the cart ran, it was on bad batteries and died.

A buddy mentioned just tapping that solenoid with a hammer to see if that works as well. Never heard of that but... :)

Thanks for your patience, looking to go camping wed, so trying to get this hammered out (not easy when you have to go to "real" work )

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by tguarino

1. Sounds like first, I need to double check my J3 readings, ensuring I am set to RUN.

2. Also, double check reading for J1-Pin5. If this is still low

3. I should use my DVM and use RED LEAD on the Solenoid nut attached to the battery, and the BLACK lead to the NEG of the BATTERY PACK?

4. This should read my full charge (if set in RUN position) Right?

5. If it doesnt get a full charge read, is it possible its either my Soleniod,

6. or what about the Reed Switch (read about that this morning), is that a possible issue on my cart?

7. Considering the cart worked last time, its hard to imagine the wiring harness is bad, right? Probably something with solenoid or a connection not hooked back up or similar? Last time the cart ran, it was on bad batteries and died.

8. Thanks for your patience, looking to go camping wed, so trying to get this hammered out (not easy when you have to go to "real" work :) )

1. The wire colors you listed didn't quite match the wire colors on the schematic I posted and was using to interpret the voltages you listed, so the voltage reading might have been 38V for one set of contact and 2.5V for the other. In that case, getting the right voltage on J1 Pin-5 will most like resolve that problem.
In a nutshell, if a switches contacts are closed, you should read the same voltage on both pins it connects to. Only if the contacts are open or bad, will you read a different voltage on both sides of a switch.

2. This is the first problem to solve. Get it fixed and we'll proceed from there.

3. Yes

4. Yes

5. The voltage to Pin-5 comes from the battery side solenoid terminal, so it ought to be there whether solenoid is good or bad.
First thing is the get solenoid to activate and then we can check if the contacts are good or not.

6. The Reed switch is a high failure item, but you have 38V on Pin-4, so your Reed switch is either okay or has been bypassed. (Common practice, all it is supposed to do is disable cart so it cannot be driven away while charger is attached, but has a nasty habit of failing when you are in the middle of nowhere.)

7. There is a lot of shaking and vibration, so wires do break and the air under the seat is acid laden, so corrosion occurs and most anything is possible.
If cart hasn't ran since batteries were replaced, I would definitely make sure everything was connected up correctly, but the only issue I'm seeing from the voltages you've listed is a bad connection between the battery side terminal on the solenoid and J1 Pin-5. (J3 might have some issues, but fix J1-Pin-5 first)

8. Been there. Done that. I like being retired better.

[tguarino]

Ok,

I retested pin J1-5 and it is 2.5.

Also retested the J3, the plug is actually sideways, so testing O and Y came back full which on my cart seems to be pin 3 and 4. 1 and 2 came back 2.5 which is Red and White. Just doesnt match the scheme guide.

As for testing the solenoid, didnt work out so well.

Key ON, Switch to RUN, Pedal down

Set Black DVM Lead on NEG of battery pack, RED DVM Lead on Solenoid either side returns 2.5. I tried to reach down where the big cables connect up and tested those as well are 2.5

So best I can tell there is no power getting to the solenoid right?

For the record, I dont see a wire going from Battery Pack POS to the Solenoid. I see it run off to the Reed Switch.. But it looks exactly like your picture, so I am not alarmed :)

So I tried both of the "big nuts" both coming back as not so good...

[tguarino]

Ok, problem solved !!

In the computer world we call it an ID-10-T errror, but when reviewing the schematic I was trying to check the battery cable going from the Solenoid to the Battery postitive and was going to comment that I dont have that.

So, I started rummaging around, and the wire had laid itself down perfect along side some others down in the bottom of the cart. But there it was, not hooked up to positive terminal.

Reviewing all my concerns, this answers them all, I reconnected and hit gas, you guessed it :)

Now I am just stuck with trying to get the cover back on the controller box.

JohnnyB, I appreciate your help and your patience. If it were not for you< iw ould have never dug this deep and would be dropping it off at a dealer. Though it turned out fine, I learned so much from this thread.

Anyway, seems we are a go ! Thanks again for your time.

[JohnnieB]

Glad to hear you got it running.

[Gonkulor]

Foil head is smarter than the average bear! And patient too!