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Old 02-16-2015, 02:42 PM   #11
Jrobeau
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

Guys I really appreciate the help. DaveTM, nothing smelled hot but I did notice the plastic cover on the F/R switch assembly was warm. Not sure if that's common.

Johnnie B, I'll test when I get home from work.
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Old 02-16-2015, 03:02 PM   #12
yurtle
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

I've never noticed my FNR cover to be above ambient. That might be a good place to start. Simply remove the cover and see if the cables or studs look discolored. You might smell something under there as well.
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Old 02-16-2015, 03:39 PM   #13
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrobeau View Post
Guys I really appreciate the help. DaveTM, nothing smelled hot but I did notice the plastic cover on the F/R switch assembly was warm. Not sure if that's common.

Johnnie B, I'll test when I get home from work.
F/R switch moves to the top of the likely suspect list.
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Old 02-16-2015, 05:24 PM   #14
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

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Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
F/R switch moves to the top of the likely suspect list.
Yup. That's the first place I would look as well.
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:11 AM   #15
Jrobeau
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

I feel like I'm making head way here.. Got home a few minutes ago and checked to see if I had voltage between M- and B- on control box.. Had nothing when solenoid clicked... So I took cover off f/r switch and one cable connection is very black looking.. Looking from back to front, black cable on 3rd base.. Lol. I got drawing Johnnie, which of those would I start with 1st..
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:03 AM   #16
DaveTM
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

If you have one wire that is "toast" then you need to pull out the F\R switch to examine it. Here is a picture of the last F\R switch of mine that I replaced with one of ScottyB's Super Duty Reversing Contractors. Once you switch to a Reversing Contactor, you get rid of the weakest link in the series system and the cart is much easier to switch from F to R, and vice-versa, plus you have solid contacts because you no longer have those chump copper contacts to deal with.

But...here's a few pics of my last F\R switch. Oh...the bolts are all suppose to be straight out.





So....if your F\R board looks like this......you likely have found the problem. Also, if it looks like this you likely will need to replace your heavy gauge wires as well.

Dave
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:55 AM   #17
Jrobeau
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

I went to test the cables for voltage this morning and guess what... The cable running from controller B+ to f/r switch A, was burnt off the bolt. I am going to get another to run and sure it will fix the problem but I'm worried why it would do that. If I knew how to post a pic I would show you guys but the cable was even melting where it was resting against the frame... Anyway, it looks like ya'll were all right...
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Old 02-17-2015, 11:39 AM   #18
yurtle
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

If the cable got hot enough to melt in half, it's unlikely that your FNR survived. It may work, but it should probably be replaced.
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Old 02-17-2015, 03:02 PM   #19
DaveTM
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

Jrobeau, listen to yurtel. If you just replace that cable, you will need to do it again in another week....if replacing the cable will even make your cart run at all. How do I know this? Just look at the pictures of my old F\R switch I posted above. That was just the switch. The cables were burnt toast.

Take apart your F\R switch. It's not brain surgery. Remove your pos and neg battery terminals FIRST....AND don't let them TOUCH each other!! Then there are 4 main wire bolts on the F\R rotating switch that you need to remove. (Mark these so you know which wire goes back to which position. You know....12 0'clock, 6:00 o'clock. 3:00 o'clock etc., then remove those wires. There is a main bolt that faces towards the rear of your cart. Just loosen that bolt until it comes completely off.

If you have any mechanical aptitude you will see how it works. Now, once you have it off you can look at the side that is opposite of the one I show in my pics. There will be 4 copper contacts. These copper contacts should be flush with the board and nice and shiny. If any ONE of those contacts are black OR if any one of them have "sunk" into the board, then you will need to replace the board....along with the bad contact.

However, IMHO I would upgrade at this point and go with a reversing contactor. But...that's just me.

But if your F\R switch has bad contacts, tossing money into wires is like dousing a fire with gasoline. It just won't work.

Dave
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Old 02-18-2015, 03:27 PM   #20
radioman
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Default Re: Solenoid clicks key turned on

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrobeau View Post
I went to test the cables for voltage this morning and guess what... The cable running from controller B+ to f/r switch A, was burnt off the bolt. I am going to get another to run and sure it will fix the problem but I'm worried why it would do that. If I knew how to post a pic I would show you guys but the cable was even melting where it was resting against the frame... Anyway, it looks like ya'll were all right...
It could have been caused by a poor connection at the controller lug getting hot. You be sure to correct the problem with the solenoid energizing when you turn key on when you finish replacing and repair cable and connections. Problems with other things like ITS wiring can cause cart to take off without warning when switch turned on.
Had it happen to me. Look in the pedal box for a micro switch missing or improper adjusted or bypassd. There should be four wires in the pedal box two go to the ITS module and two to the micro switch.
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