G14 Rebuild

[dwwg14]

OK, so I think I've decided to go with the Predator 420cc from Harbor Freight. It is $359 with an additional 20% this weekend for Labor Day. That's pretty cheap. I've read about everything I can find on this swap. Vegas Carts has a pretty decent .pdf file on the swap. They also sell a kit, but it is pretty costly at $699! That includes the 720 clutch, but I'm going to use the stock one since it is only a year old. That drops the price to $399. Still expensive IMHO. It has belts, mounting plate(s), etc. I don't have a welder, so not sure what real options I have.

I see that people take the internal governor off the engine, but the guy at VC told me that was a bad idea and it would end up blowing up. I resurrected a 2 year old thread to see how it held up doing that in the BB section. I would like it to go faster, but want it to last. Besides, not sure my kids need it to be fast. It has a Jakes 7" lift and bigger tires, so they could tip it easy enough.

Anyways, I'm going to start taking it apart and pulling the blown up motor on Friday. I'll likely start a thread in the BB section with the build. I'm thinking I'll wrap the body while it is off. I rattle canned it last time, but I want it a bit nicer. More to come. Please chime in if there is a good alternative to the VC kit and/or you have experience with the reliability of this engine...

[dwwg14]

Finally got some time tonight, so I pulled the rear body off and yanked the engine out. As it turns out, the front motor mount is broken. Guess I'll have to find another one. Anyways, I wanted to begin pulling it apart. A buddy of mine scared me about the HF 420. He said he's gotten HF motors and had nothing but reliability problems. So, I'm back to potentially rebuilding the G16 motor.

In preparation, I started taking it apart. I got the carburetor and spacer off. I also took off the plastic surround, valve cover and head. I need to take it to have the clutch and other side removed b/c I don't have any air tools. Once I gave those off, I'm going to take the side cover off to get to the rod, piston and bearings. I was able to rotate the engine, but it is pretty rough. The cylinder wall doesn't look bad, but I'll know more once I get the piston out.

I need to know if $270 is a good deal for the rebuild kit. Here is the add:

YAMAHA ENGINE REBUILD KIT FOR G 14 ONLY (1994-96 1/2)


KIT INCLUDES:

1 INTAKE VALVE
1 EXHAUST VALVE
1 INTAKE VALVE SEAL
1 ROD BEARING
1 HEAD GASKET
1 VALVE COVER GASKET
1 CRANKCASE GASKET
1 INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET
1 EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET
1 CARBURETOR GASKET
1 CRANK SEAL - CLUTCH SIDE
1 CRANK SEAL - FAN SIDE
1 CRANK BEARING - CLUTCH SIDE
1 CRANK BEARING -FAN SIDE
1 PISTON/RING ASSEMBLY-CHOOSE STANDARD OR .25 OVERSIZE OR .50 OVERSIZE-
PLEASE LET US KNOW WHAT SIZE YOU NEED WHEN YOU ORDER,
IF WE DON'T HERE FROM YOU WE WILL SHIP THE STANDARD SIZE,
IF YOU RETURN THE ITEM FOR AN OVERSIZE THERE WILL BE A SHIPPING CHARGE,
THANK YOU.
,
PART # YAM G-14

Let me know your thoughts...

[Mike Mac]

Don't spend a dime till Mr. Block and cg chime in. They will guide you to the correct parts.

But you really need to see what the crank looks like first!!

And I think your making the right move!!

Don Plowman may have a crank. He's also the one to talk to if you want to go fast!!

[smallblock450sl]

I'm with Mike. You just don't know till you have it apart. I do know Yamaha has never offered a "rebuild kit", so that would definatly be aftermarket stuff. Never cared for aftermarket rings. Good luck.

[dwwg14]

OK, so I can't get the clutch or counter weight/fan looking thing off of the crank. I put a 1/4" extension down the hole on the clutch side and tried a puller. It actually started to bend the extension! So, I guess I have to buy that clutch bolt. That still doesn't help me with the other side. I soaked it in wd-40 and tried a puller there as well. No go! Any help would be greatly appreciated...

[cgtech]

Post a pic of the fan/flywheel, i have an idea for you (but illustrated is easier than typing ).

[raydhd]

I would not worry about the flywheel if the crank is not damaged.It does not need to come off for just a ring and rod bearing rebuild.Get the clutch off with the puller look inside and see where you are.

[dwwg14]

Well, it is completly apart. It doesn't look that bad. The bearings at either end of the crank spin freely. The cylinder walls don't look bad and there aren't any grooves on the crank. The immediate problem I see is the rod will not move on the wrist pin. The piston looks a little scorched, so I'm guessing the rod and wrist pin may be one at this point...

[raydhd]

Time to see how the cylinder sizes up and go from there.Unless you are very lucky it is probably just over bore and new piston time along with the rod itself.How do the cam and balance shaft look?

[raydhd]

If many more parts are damaged you might want to take advantage of the $269 home depot lifan 420.With the engine mount,S/G bracket and clutch adapter from vegascarts you could come in at less than $500 for the clone swap and everything engine wise would be new.