Ezgo Series TXT not moving

[jjaquette]

Hi all!

I have a late 90s/early 2000s cart (bought it used and they installed some crazy light switches and removed the serial number plate) that just stopped.

I read through dozens of threads here, did every test on this page:

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/ezgo-...eshooting.html

And passed everything. I even tested just the motor and it spins the wheels fine. My multimeter tests results were:

1. Battery pack - 37.95V
2. Negative battery to solenoid - 37.95V
3. Solenoid small terminals with pedal pushed - 37V
4. ITS. Negative on battery, positive on white controller wire all good. .7 - 1.5V
5. -B to +B : 37V
6. -M to +B: 37V
7. Battery pack does not decrease as pedal is pushed
8. Motor continuity all tested as expected.
9. Cleaned all the connections as well including the controller

If I had hair to pull out I would. :-)

Any thoughts on what I can try next?

Thanks in advance.

[jjaquette]

Oh a couple of other things I forgot to mention: it is a 36V and there is no reed switch. Looks like the previous owner already removed/bypassed it.

[JohnnieB]

Which drive system? See attached.
All three were available in the year range you posted. PDS replaced DCS in 2000 and series drives were available throughout late 90's early 2000's.

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Does the solenoid click when pedal is pushed?

[jjaquette]

It is a Series drive system. Yes, the solenoid clicks. I just replaced it to try the least expensive fixes first.

[JohnnieB]

Connect your DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
With pedal pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, you should read battery pack voltage (38.2V when fully charged).

If it isn't there, leave the negative test prob on the B- terminal and go looking for the missing voltage with the positive test probe.

The attached schematic has the high current circuit highlighted. The F/R switch is the most likely suspect.

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If it is there, press the pedal to the floor and the voltage ought to decrease to 0V.

[jjaquette]

Forgot to update the thread here.

It was indeed the F/R switch. One of the terminals had basically melted the plastic all around it and I could not see that until I pulled the switch out. Thanks JohnnieB. Running the high voltage test helped pin point it.

[JohnnieB]

Thanks for the feedback.