Electrical Wiring Diagram question

[DKflorida]

here is a attached diagram, I pulled off of a old thread on here, that I have a few questions about as I am new to the electrical side of things.

1 - Is there specific gauge wires I need for the different parts of this? I'm assuming there is but want to confirm and if yes does anyone have an idea on sizes I need.

2 - Goal is to have a stereo and speaker circuit, led light circuit, and headlight and tail light circuit connected to a fusebox and voltage reducer and the ability to be able to turn these circuits on/off with the key switch. Does anyone see any issues with that or does everything look good with this diagram.

[cgtech]

Hmm, the link/pic didnt show correctly, cant read a thing.

[DKflorida]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Hmm, the link/pic didnt show correctly, cant read a thing.

Just corrected the image let me know if its still messing up. I can't upload links until my account is a week old so had to resize the image.

[cgtech]

Ok, looks like that configuration will remove all power when the key is off. That means clock & all presets will be reset every time key is off (and possibly put radio back into "demo mode").

[DKflorida]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Ok, looks like that configuration will remove all power when the key is off. That means clock & all presets will be reset every time key is off (and possibly put radio back into "demo mode").

Ah ok I didn't even think of that so I would need to have constant power to the reducer then to keep the radio from resetting every time. Only other option I can think of is running a completely separate circuit with a separate reducer just for the stereo and speakers my main goal was having things on the switch so nothing drains the battery overnight or if we let it sit without charging for a few nights but I'm not familiar with how fast batteries can drain out with constant feed to some accessories.

[cgtech]

All depends on the quality of the voltage reducer, some are better than others. Any decent reducer shouldn't have any noticable drain on the batteries if stored over a week (that's a Very conservative figure). Many of the better reducers offer switched & unswitched outputs, so you could turn off everything but the yellow stereo wire when the keys off. The cheap ones dont offer this, and that's a good thing, because they are lame and fail soon anyway. If you want that feature, upgrade to a nicer reducer. I have had very good luck with DPI's reducer, I cant even think of a failure yet (offers the feature i noted above). Been using them for a long time. They are good enough that yamaha & ezgo are now using them as factory equipment. I also like how they are "plug&play compatible" with the oem's prior Surepower converters. (Can buy them with, or without that socket).

[DKflorida]

Originally Posted by cgtech

All depends on the quality of the voltage reducer, some are better than others. Any decent reducer shouldn't have any noticable drain on the batteries if stored over a week (that's a Very conservative figure). Many of the better reducers offer switched & unswitched outputs, so you could turn off everything but the yellow stereo wire when the keys off. The cheap ones dont offer this, and that's a good thing, because they are lame and fail soon anyway. If you want that feature, upgrade to a nicer reducer. I have had very good luck with DPI's reducer, I cant even think of a failure yet (offers the feature i noted above). Been using them for a long time. They are good enough that yamaha & ezgo are now using them as factory equipment. I also like how they are "plug&play compatible" with the oem's prior Surepower converters. (Can buy them with, or without that socket).

I really appreciate the help and information I will look into DPI for sure.