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Old 04-30-2022, 07:29 PM   #1
SEHunter
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Default Possible bad OBC, need help please

So I thought i had a bad primary contactor on my 99 DS. I removed the coil wires and had battery pack voltage when checking with a DMM. Then I bypassed the contactor and the cart worked.

Installed a knock off SW200 and it didn’t work. What I’ve found is that i have 48 volt coil voltage when the wires aren’t plugged into the coil. After i plug the wires back into the coil and step on the pedal to create positive coil voltage, i loose my negative voltage from the yellow wire that comes from the OBC. The negative voltage disappears as soon as the positive coil voltage is present. Is this a bad OBC?
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Old 04-30-2022, 08:30 PM   #2
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Possible bad OBC, need help please

Try the OBC reset procedure that you will find in a sticky here or google it. If that doesn't work, you will have to consider bypassing it and getting a different charger. (better than replacing the OBC)
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Old 05-01-2022, 08:32 AM   #3
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Default Re: Possible bad OBC, need help please

Am I correct in thinking nothing else could cause this symptom? I’ve obviously ruled out the contactor and the wires are ok. I don’t believe the controller has anything to do with the negative yellow coil wire, correct?
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Old 05-01-2022, 11:48 AM   #4
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Default Re: Possible bad OBC, need help please

I don't know what you mean by negative coil voltage. Is there voltage present on the yellow wire when it's not connected to the coil?

Whenever voltage is present in a non-operating circuit (power is present but the motor, light etc. is not On) that voltage is the same all the way to the point where the circuit is open.
The yellow is basically the ground wire. When the OBC closes the circuit for the yellow wire to provide the negative, any voltage on the yellow wire will go away. This is how ALL circuits work when current is allowed to pass through the circuit. Any voltage that is beyond the load in the circuit goes away when the circuit is operating. The load in this case is the coil, but it could be a light, motor, or any other resistive element.

Since the ground is the last stop in this circuit, when power is applied to the circuit you will measure pack voltage at every point in the circuit, ONLY when the circuit is not operating. Once the OBC closes the gate to allow that circuit to get to ground, the voltage will be the same all the way up to the coil, (should have pack voltage at the coil) and any voltage past the coil will be gone, and the coil should engage. (assuming the coil is good)

By the way you described I can't tell if you have tested the voltage properly, or if you bypassed just the coil, or if you bypassed the entire solenoid when you were testing. So lets get back to the basics first.

All wiring connected in it's place, and wheels jacked up off the ground.
Black meter lead should be on B- for all testing here.
Key switch On, Throttle pushed, FnR in F or R, You should have pack voltage (48+) at the WHite/blk wire on the solenoid coil. Is 48v present? Does the solenoid click?
You should have 0v on the Yellow wire. If you have More than 0v on the yellow wire how much is it?

If there is remaining voltage (over 0v) on the yellow wire, remove the Yellow wire from the solenoid and run a new wire from the solenoid to B- on the controller or battery pack. You can use aligator clips for testing, you just need a direct connection to B-. Now Key On, Throttle pushed, FnR in F or R do you still have 48v present on the White/blk wire? Does the solenoid coil function?

If you do not have full 48v present on the White/blk, we have a wire issue or problem with key switch, throttle switch, or limit switch on the FnR where you're losing voltage. Those will need to be checked in order to determine where voltage is dropping.
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Old 05-01-2022, 01:10 PM   #5
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Default Re: Possible bad OBC, need help please

Thanks very much for the detail. I’m limited in understanding here so please pardon my poor terminology. However, I ran a new wire as you described below directly from the coil to B- on the pack and the solenoid now works and the cart will operate, so I’m assuming there’s some problem with the yellow wire. With the pedal pressed, i get pack voltage when checking between the green/white wire and B- when testing with both the original yellow wire plugged up as well as the bypass wire i just ran, however, the solenoid will only close when using the new wire. So does this confirm the OBC is bad? The cart will still charge with the original power drive charger. I assume the OBC has multiple functions and that one can be inoperable while the other still functions?

“remove the Yellow wire from the solenoid and run a new wire from the solenoid to B- on the controller or battery pack. You can use aligator clips for testing, you just need a direct connection to B-. Now Key On, Throttle pushed, FnR in F or R do you still have 48v present on the White/blk wire? Does the solenoid coil function?"
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Old 05-01-2022, 04:13 PM   #6
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Default Re: Possible bad OBC, need help please

In that case, yes, the OBC is likely bad. The OBC controls the solenoid - for charge lockout so the cart is not operable when the charger is plugged in. You can continue to run it the way it is, just remember it will still be able to operate even if the charger cord is plugged in.
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Old 05-01-2022, 07:42 PM   #7
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Default Re: Possible bad OBC, need help please

Got it. Thank you very much. I’ll be shopping for a stand alone charger soon and bypass the OBC. Is the Lester Summit 2 still considered a preferred option to your knowledge?
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Old 05-01-2022, 07:56 PM   #8
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Default Re: Possible bad OBC, need help please

The Lester Summit II is a very good charger. Very flexible with Bluetooth and a phone app. You can change charge profiles to match your batteries.
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Old 05-01-2022, 10:19 PM   #9
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Default Re: Possible bad OBC, need help please

Ok thanks, I believe I’ll be going with that one. Appreciate everyone who contributed to this thread. 👍
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