Club Car Brake Lights Stay On

[LJ12530]

I sketched out a circuit diagram of how I think the system is wired. (attached)
The key switch would be located somewhere in the +12V dc circuit that goes to the brake lights.
Note that the brake pedal switch allows 48V dc to be applied to the brake relay which closes the N/O contacts and applies 12V dc to the brake lights.
If the contacts in the brake relay were "welded" closed, and the key switch, in the 12V circuit, was ON, the brake lights would illuminate without the brake pedal switch being activated. DRAWING IS HOW I THINK THE CIRCUIT WORKS. Tahoe is the expert. I'm just an old required guy with some experience with circuits....and time on my hands!
The one thing that does not fit with the "symptoms" is the fact that the brake lights go off when the brake switch is disconnected. That seems to indicate that there is a problem in the brake switch itself which is what Tahoe has been saying. My point is simply that it appears to me that a bad relay by itself could in fact cause the brake lights to stay on when the pedal switch is disconnected.
One other possibility is that there is a 4 minute or so timer in the circuit. Press the brakes with the key on, leave everything as is for 4 minutes or so and see if the brake lights go off. That would be normal with some timers.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

You're close, but not completely correct LJ12530. There are two switches in this circuit. The relay and the pressure switch on the pedal. The lights won't illuminate unless both of them are closed. The reason the lights turn off when the pressure switch is unplugged is because you open that circuit. If the lights are staying on there's no way a relay switch can cause that. It's a pressure switch issue. Also, there is no timer with the pressure switch systems. Only with the earlier style Precedent brake light systems.

[LJ12530]

My diagram does have two switches. The one for the pressure switch on the brake pedal, and the one via the contacts in the relay. They are both shown as N/O in the diagram. There would also be an ON/OFF switch somewhere in the 12V circuit. I was trying to show that were I to jumper the output (not the coil) of the relay ( or have stuck contacts ) ....while having the key on, the pressure switch does not have to be closed since it is not in the 12V circuit that powers the tail lights. I have not verified that but if get bored tomorrow (retired!) I'll play around with the relay output and see what happens.

Did not know about the change to only pressure switches. I've seen a few (very few compared to you) different switch arrangements, but they were on older Precedents.

Funny thing...today when I stopped the cart...the brake lights stayed on. I tapped the brake pedal and they went off! I do have a pressure switch on my 2009 Precedent so they definitely are not foolproof switches to say the least.

Thx for all the time you spend responding to posts. You have more golf cart knowledge than I ever WANT to have!!

[txjay]

I certainly appreciate all the information. I removed the pressure switch from behind the rubber pad on the brake pedal. While doing it, occasionally the brake lights would flicker. That suggested to me the pressure switch is bad. I went to the local club car dealer and the pressure pad was $87 so I opted to just disconnect it and drive without brake lights. All the other lights work fine, just no brake lights. Just didn't want to spend $100 for the part. TahoeDawg has suggested that the switch is difficult to install and "calibrate" for the correct pressure from the brake pedal. The brake lights were drawing down the batteries causing some difficulty. Everyone is good, just no brake lights. Again, thanks for all the information.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by txjay

I certainly appreciate all the information. I removed the pressure switch from behind the rubber pad on the brake pedal. While doing it, occasionally the brake lights would flicker. That suggested to me the pressure switch is bad. I went to the local club car dealer and the pressure pad was $87 so I opted to just disconnect it and drive without brake lights. All the other lights work fine, just no brake lights. Just didn't want to spend $100 for the part. TahoeDawg has suggested that the switch is difficult to install and "calibrate" for the correct pressure from the brake pedal. The brake lights were drawing down the batteries causing some difficulty. Everyone is good, just no brake lights. Again, thanks for all the information.

$87 is absolutely ridiculous. NO reason it should cost that much. Also, I'd look for other things as the issue with your batteries dying. Those LED taillights pull VERY little power. It would take for EVER to kill your batteries with those lights.

[ATLSpyder]

We have a 2006 Club Car electric Precedent. As I recall a few years back we had problems with brake lights and a tech from our dealer came out and while also doing a needed battery replacement replaced a fuse that seemed to fix the brake light issue. Now what happens is when brake pedal is pressed brake lights come on but do not go off when pedal released. Only thing that turns them off is the key. I have ordered a new microswitch (nomimal cost) before removing mat and pedal assembly again hoping that is the problem and fix. Just replaced the MCOR 2 (I know different topic) and maybe I caused the brake light problem, maybe not. Will repost if new switch fixes the problem. The new MCOR BTW works fantastic like new for 1/10 dealer estimate. Was having to repeatedly press "gas" pedal to get it to go. Thanks for any and all tips.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by ATLSpyder

We have a 2006 Club Car electric Precedent. As I recall a few years back we had problems with brake lights and a tech from our dealer came out and while also doing a needed battery replacement replaced a fuse that seemed to fix the brake light issue. Now what happens is when brake pedal is pressed brake lights come on but do not go off when pedal released. Only thing that turns them off is the key. I have ordered a new microswitch (nomimal cost) before removing mat and pedal assembly again hoping that is the problem and fix. Just replaced the MCOR 2 (I know different topic) and maybe I caused the brake light problem, maybe not. Will repost if new switch fixes the problem. The new MCOR BTW works fantastic like new for 1/10 dealer estimate. Was having to repeatedly press "gas" pedal to get it to go. Thanks for any and all tips.

I replied to your other thread about the MCOR. Keep an eye on it. Details found in the other post. As for your brake light issue. The Gen 1 pedal assembly like the one found in your early Precedent did not use a micro-switch style brake light switch. It used a small timer board with a shark fin that broke an internal laser beam between a groove in the timer box. Once the shark fin broke the laser, the lights would turn on and the timer would begin to count. After time expired, the lights would turn off. If the brake lights do not turn off, you have a bad timer unit.

[ATLSpyder]

I'm fine with brake lights staying on when I park the cart and set the brake. Turning off the key turns off the brake light. The problem I was having was when driving it once I pressed the brake once the brake light did not go off when I released the pedal like it should. Driving it on the streets of our gated neighborhood it was a safety issue. Tahoe knows carts and described the switch my 2006 Precedent had and helped me fix it. Many, many thanks.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by ATLSpyder

I'm fine with brake lights staying on when I park the cart and set the brake. Turning off the key turns off the brake light. The problem I was having was when driving it once I pressed the brake once the brake light did not go off when I released the pedal like it should. Driving it on the streets of our gated neighborhood it was a safety issue. Tahoe knows carts and described the switch my 2006 Precedent had and helped me fix it. Many, many thanks.

Glad I could assist!