Drive Clutch Question

[kyerik]

For safety sake, just be really careful about how you hold the sanding block or file- maybe you can hold it with some vice grips to minimize risk- and have it positioned so that it flies away from you if you were to drop it or if it got caught on/in the spinning clutch.

I can just see a person getting a file jabbed up into their lower arm (or it flying up into their face) if they were holding it with their hand and pushing it into the direction it was spinning and it caught...

[rvkersh]

Why don't you stick your hand in the spinning fan on your car? Not to be a smart a**, but as the aluminum builds up in the file and starts to drag, you will have the file sticking out of your throat. If it is that bad, consider a new clutch.

[jlhog]

If I do sand the clutch face it will just be a tempory/test to see if it helps. And I understand all the safety concerns and this ol hillbilly wont loose any body parts I promise. In looking at new drive clutchs I have found orginal clutchs for $249 and aftermarket one for $191. Will the aftermarket one get the job done and last for more than a couple years? Does anyone here have experience with the aftermarket ones?

[kyerik]

My clutch says "comet duster" on it so it may be aftermarket. It seems to work well.

[rvkersh]

My neighbor has the after market clutch on his 85 ezgo, he uses it to bring in wood from the woods every week. It's been on there over two years now and still holding up. It looks like a comet duster.

[Madman415]

being that it's a '96, you can adjust the clutch to get a bit more life out of it until you get a new one. you want to turn it counterclockwise to get more torque.

[jlhog]

Can you explain this a little more please?

Originally Posted by Madman415

being that it's a '96, you can adjust the clutch to get a bit more life out of it until you get a new one. you want to turn it counterclockwise to get more torque.

[Madman415]

when your looking at the face of the clutch you'll see three sets of 10mm bolts that are in pairs. Just by looking at it, pick two of the bolts that are closer together, you want those two bolts in the holes counterclockwise to the next pair of bolts.

What you're doing is rotating the outter half of the clutch one position left which will take some of the tension off the spring inside. This allows for a higher RPM before the clutch engages. The result is having your engine in it's "torque curve" before trying to move and will help it climb better from a dead stop.

You don't have to remove the black cover or the center bolt that holds the clutch on. Only need to remove the 10mm bolts The clutch will want to turn clockwise when the bolts are out, you could either try to keep a "death grip" on it or just mark the position before removing the bolts. Its really not hard to do at all, it's harder to explain then the actual task.

[jlhog]

OK, I understand that. But I just put a new "power" spring in and it did not have the tangs to go in the holes like the stock spring had. I always learn the tricks after I spend money. I added the new spring and severe duty belt and I seem to have more power, but it is snappy at take off now. Im wondering if the new belt just needs to wear in a little.

[jlhog]

Does it look like this? The one on my cart looks different, but this one is supposed to fit.

Originally Posted by kyerik

My clutch says "comet duster" on it so it may be aftermarket. It seems to work well.