G2 Electrical, Starter Generator, or Compression Issue? S/G Improperly Hooked up?

[stlouissux9119]

Unknown Year G2 Yamaha 4-Stroke Golf Cart
I am a new member to the forum so I can't post a link yet but if you look at my profile on youtube, stlouissux9119 I just posted a video with all the information needed to understand it shows it working

So here's what I have going. The cart has a rigged electrical system. The spark system is fine. That is not the issue. The selenoid has been bypassed and instead a push button start switch has been installed so the engine will stay running. Here's basically how it is layed out:

Positive cable from battery to switch, switch to starter/generator. Negative cable on Starter/Generator to negative terminal of battery. Then there is a red cable running front to back on the S/G.

Colors don't neccesarily mean much, the wiring was done with the incorrect colors it appears.

THE ISSUE

So the cart will turn over just slightly when the button is pressed. When the spark plug is removed the engine seems to turn over fine, but maybe still not enough. The battery has been charged and while i'm testing the S/G I have it on the booster so that's not the issue. The ground wire on the S/G seems to be pulling out of the starter (as seen in the video) Not sure if this could be part of the issue. I don't know if there is a compression release valve that could be sticking or exactly how these carts work. I have experience working on small engines but have never worked on a golf cart. I'm wondering if you guys think it's the S/G, the connections, an engine issue, clutch issue or whatever else?

I have cleaned and put on new connectors for the positive terminal of the S/G

Once again youtube user stlouissux9119, latest video shows the S/G in action and issues

Thanks for your help and any suggestions are appreciated

[stlouissux9119]

I'm pretty sure I should check my valve clearances but if you guys would let me know what you think that would be great before I start screwing around!

[essness]

I dont have any answers for ya on this........ but I figured I would post the vid,

Yamaha G2 Gas Golf Cart, Starting Issues - YouTube

Yamaha G2 Gas Golf Cart, Starting Issues - YouTube

[simple man]

I would start with the loose terminal! Take it apart and get that issue fixed before even trying other testing. That terminal may need to be insulated even though it is a ground. Check the stickies for your cart. I believe there is a test for the S/G in them!

[stlouissux9119]

Checking valves

[smallblock450sl]

Every one knows I hate "jerryrigid" stuff. But, your questions seem to be well thought out, so.....Take the starter/generator out, disassemble (do not breath the dust, its nasty!). You will find the negative (A1) post that's loose must have the insulators replaced. Sounds like its shorting out (why the cable is getting hot) and doesn't have enough current to turn over the engine with 155 to 175 lbs compression. I'd take a very close inspection of the brush wear and the armature commutator (were the brushes ride), any damaged segmates-new armature. Test the armature for short (comutator to main shaft). Check for feild winding continuity (F1 to F2) and check for short between (F1 and F2 posts) the the metal feild caseing. The red and green charge wires (charge coil windings) should read 5 ohms. Good luck

[stlouissux9119]

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

Every one knows I hate "jerryrigid" stuff. But, your questions seem to be well thought out, so.....Take the starter/generator out, disassemble (do not breath the dust, its nasty!). You will find the negative (A1) post that's loose must have the insulators replaced. Sounds like its shorting out (why the cable is getting hot) and doesn't have enough current to turn over the engine with 155 to 175 lbs compression. I'd take a very close inspection of the brush wear and the armature commutator (were the brushes ride), any damaged segmates-new armature. Test the armature for short (comutator to main shaft). Check for feild winding continuity (F1 to F2) and check for short between (F1 and F2 posts) the the metal feild caseing. The red and green charge wires (charge coil windings) should read 5 ohms. Good luck

It appears I might have a hung up valve. After cleaning the connections that wire is no longer heating up. Did it seem like it had enough to start it when I pulled out the spark plug? I'm hoping after I free up the intermittently stuck valve and set the push rods at .004 it might run.Sound logical?

[smallblock450sl]

Originally Posted by stlouissux9119

It appears I might have a hung up valve. After cleaning the connections that wire is no longer heating up. Did it seem like it had enough to start it when I pulled out the spark plug? I'm hoping after I free up the intermittently stuck valve and set the push rods at .004 it might run.Sound logical?

Why not fix the obviuos first, that would be logical. Just my 2 cents worth.

[stlouissux9119]

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

Why not fix the obviuos first, that would be logical. Just my 2 cents worth.

It was a hung up valve. Runs like a charm now. Best $250 ever

[stlouissux9119]

Thank you for everyones help, both here and on youtube. I had done valves on numerous small engines before as I am a small engine mechanic. I want to thank whoever posted the sticky because it let me know what the valve clearances were supposed to be. I adjusted the valves numerous times and found the intake valve was intermittetently sticking. I free'd it up and set the lasch and runs great now! Don't like the Jerry Rigged starter as if you stop since there is no clutch it stalls out the engine but hey, it works. Going to run it for a few days and then adjust the clearances one more time. Thanks again for all your help.
-Stlouissux9119